How much weight have you towed with your Diesel Gladiator?

[3TDJEEP]

The frontal area only includes the front cap. So, let's say the front cap is 8'6" wide by 7' feet tall, then you have a total frontal area of 60 sq. ft., which exceeds the 55 sq. ft. recommendation.

Thank you for the feedback. After further review, the front cap is actually around 6', the trailer has a front pass through storage area that is lower than the living space and curved. So I think I'm okay drag wise. Now I just need to see if I can put the trailer on a diet to get the weight down. Doubtful,.

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[AOGAudiman]

Now I just need to see if I can put the trailer on a diet to get the weight down. Doubtful,.

Ooh forgot to mention. If you are able to put the Gladiator on a "diet" it DOES help with the oil and coolant temps quite a bit. More than I was thinking it would.

 

[biodiesel]

Thank you for the feedback. After further review, the front cap is actually around 6'

That puts you closer to 51 sq. ft. which puts you back in the green!

Now I just need to see if I can put the trailer on a diet to get the weight down. Doubtful,.

Yeah, that's the tricky part. Dry weight doesn't include propane, batteries, fresh water, etc. When I pack the RV, I have to go back to my backpacking days when I was drilling holes in my toothbrush to save weight (not really, but you get the point). I try to be creative in effort to save space and weight, but at the same time, still take everything that I want to enjoy the trip.

 

[CrazyCooter]

IMO you need more truck for that trailer for best results..........

None of the manufacturers are honest about the dry actual weights, hitch weights, never seem to update the specs when design changes happen, and then you have the options. You will absolutely be over 6K. I would educated guess 7,500 and 1,000+ hitch weight. My GeoPro is listed at 437lb hitch weight, but I have seen it approaching 900lb when loaded with water and I even moved my lithium batteries back over the axle and slid the propane tanks rearward as well..

It "May" be within frontal area spec if you only use the front cap measurements, but what about the taper in the roof, A/C, Awning, and other things that add to drag? I found a HUGE difference in my 7' wide RV vs the newer 7.7" RV we currently have........That's what pushed me into doing the 4.10's.

The fact that a little rig like that comes with a pair 5200# axles is VERY suspect! If it was really 5,000 empty and 10-15% of that ended up on the hitch...... a pair of 3500# axles would get it within load carrying specs and also lighten the dry up at least 150lb with lighter running gear, tires, and wheels. Then the manufacturer could sell the rig for $500 less?

Living in CA, I'm sure you are well aware of the 9%+ grades to go anywhere that's cool, so there's that.......

4.10's and 37's are a really nice combo as the 3.73's were really too deep with 33" tires IMO. I'm currently on 38's and 4.10's and am right at the max GCVWR on most trips with no complaints. Probably 30K towing miles in this configuration all over the western US. I personally feel 4.56's would suck unleaded as I HATED 4.10's w/ worn 37's but 38's were always the plan.

The cooling system is a thing, but if you don't travel when it 100°+ its tolerable and manageable. I added the Prius inverter aux cooler to mine and that really helped especially with recovery times after cresting a hill.

If you try it, be sure to let us know how it goes.

 

[3TDJEEP]

IMO you need more truck for that trailer for best results..........

None of the manufacturers are honest about the dry actual weights, hitch weights, never seem to update the specs when design changes happen, and then you have the options. You will absolutely be over 6K. I would educated guess 7,500 and 1,000+ hitch weight. My GeoPro is listed at 437lb hitch weight, but I have seen it approaching 900lb when loaded with water and I even moved my lithium batteries back over the axle and slid the propane tanks rearward as well..

It "May" be within frontal area spec if you only use the front cap measurements, but what about the taper in the roof, A/C, Awning, and other things that add to drag? I found a HUGE difference in my 7' wide RV vs the newer 7.7" RV we currently have........That's what pushed me into doing the 4.10's.

The fact that a little rig like that comes with a pair 5200# axles is VERY suspect! If it was really 5,000 empty and 10-15% of that ended up on the hitch...... a pair of 3500# axles would get it within load carrying specs and also lighten the dry up at least 150lb with lighter running gear, tires, and wheels. Then the manufacturer could sell the rig for $500 less?

Living in CA, I'm sure you are well aware of the 9%+ grades to go anywhere that's cool, so there's that.......

4.10's and 37's are a really nice combo as the 3.73's were really too deep with 33" tires IMO. I'm currently on 38's and 4.10's and am right at the max GCVWR on most trips with no complaints. Probably 30K towing miles in this configuration all over the western US. I personally feel 4.56's would suck unleaded as I HATED 4.10's w/ worn 37's but 38's were always the plan.

The cooling system is a thing, but if you don't travel when it 100°+ its tolerable and manageable. I added the Prius inverter aux cooler to mine and that really helped especially with recovery times after cresting a hill.

If you try it, be sure to let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the feedback. Trailer comes standard with dual 3500lb axles. I upgraded to flipped dual 5200lb axles for the improved brakes and stronger axles since I will do some light off-road. Reverting back to the 3200lb axles is an option that I have already discussed. It saves around $500+ and shaves about 120lbs of weight. Unfortunately I have not found much else that I can cut out to save weight.

As for the listed weight of the trailer, its the actual weight. These are custom built and each trailer is weighed at the end of the build. For reference, the one in the video I posted ended up with a dry weight of 5,105lbs and a tongue weight of 785lbs. That unloaded tongue weight alone is already a deal breaker based on the extremely limited payload rating of the JTRD.

Extremely disappointing that the JTRD is so limited. I really loved this truck until now.

Looks like I am back to the toy hauler drawing board with no camper in sight.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Thanks for the feedback. Trailer comes standard with dual 3500lb axles. I upgraded to flipped dual 5200lb axles for the improved brakes and stronger axles since I will do some light off-road. Reverting back to the 3200lb axles is an option that I have already discussed. It saves around $500+ and shaves about 120lbs of weight. Unfortunately I have not found much else that I can cut out to save weight.

As for the listed weight of the trailer, its the actual weight. These are custom built and each trailer is weighed at the end of the build. For reference, the one in the video I posted ended up with a dry weight of 5,105lbs and a tongue weight of 785lbs. That unloaded tongue weight alone is already a deal breaker based on the extremely limited payload rating of the JTRD.

Extremely disappointing that the JTRD is so limited. I really loved this truck until now.

Looks like I am back to the toy hauler drawing board with no camper in sight.

IF you do go through with it, ask about 4000# axles. While I'm not a huge fan since they are basically 3500# spindles and brakes with 5000# axle tubes with brakes on both axles. Trying to stay below 6K, you would have plenty of brakes with the security of heavier axle tubes of going off road. Even with 3500# you still have plenty of margin so long as you don't jump it?

With a weight dist hitch, a portion of that hitch weight will come off the truck and be transferred back to your trailer axles. Just another factor.

Yes the payload numbers are a bit low and it's impossible to stay under GVWR with what you have purposed, but with careful mods, it can still be done safely. Nothing in CA state law says you cant exceed GVWR, you just can't exceed any component's capacity. Warranty different story?

One time heading out of town, we weighed and I saw 3,000 steer and 5,000 drive.....Uh ya........Move some heavy stuff out of the truck to the RV, adjust the hitch a bit tighter, and dump the water!

 

[kstanley44]

Pull a 4k off-road trailer. Not much wind drag. The JT weighs about 7k. Sitting on 42’s with 5.13 gears. Only about a 1,000 miles, some of that with 40’s.
Never an issue while pulling the trailer. In the beginning, many issues with derating. Always after 6 hours of continuous driving. On a 18hour trip I learned the mid 220’s and lower equaled no derate. High mid 220’s equaled derate.
I monitor oil temps crazily now. Have added an oil cooler plus items to control engine temps. No derating in years. I think I drive on the safe side, especially when towing. I do not see a large difference in oil temps from towing or not. I think continuous driving matters more.
As for power, control and comfort levels, no issues.

NCJL, can you provide more details on you oil cooler. I have a Rubicon on 38's still with 3.73 axle and pull a 20' E-Pro, supposedly in the 4000lb range. Long interstate climbs will push the oil temp but otherwise no problems. Here in the east not western mountains!!

 

[biodiesel]

4.10's and 37's are a really nice combo as the 3.73's were really too deep with 33" tires IMO.

I'm surprised that you feel the 3.73s are a little too deep for the factory 33" tires, but I'm glad to hear it for towing. Jeep probably thought that was the best gear offering that balanced the steep divide between moderate towing and unloaded fuel economy. Unlike Ram, Jeep didn't give us a choice. My 2020 Ram EcoDiesel has the optional 3.92 gears with factory 32" tires. It's a towing machine but doesn't get the great fuel economy like the standard 3.22 gears, but that's okay since I wanted to prioritize towing over fuel economy.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I'm surprised that you feel the 3.73s are a little too deep for the factory 33" tires, but I'm glad to hear it for towing. Jeep probably thought that was the best gear offering that balanced the steep divide between moderate towing and unloaded fuel economy. Unlike Ram, Jeep didn't give us a choice. My 2020 Ram EcoDiesel has the optional 3.92 gears with factory 32" tires. It's a towing machine but doesn't get the great fuel economy like the standard 3.22 gears, but that's okay since I wanted to prioritize towing over fuel economy.

I tested stock and 37's towing 6K up the 9% grade one day apart and I preferred the gear spacing both up and down hill with the 37's which by numbers is equal to a Ram with 3.21's.....surprise?

After I swapped to 4.10's we took a 2500 trip camping out of the truck with the RTT and I hated the RPM's and fuel economy was lower than 3.73's. Swapped the 38's on after we got home and its been like that for 3 years now? I did the math beforehand and knew what I really wanted was 3.92's on 37's but that wasn't an option, but 4.10 and 38's got me where I wanted.

I didn't test it, but it wouldn't surprise me if 0-60 was faster on the 37's too because it felt like it got out of a hole harder being loaded up vs limited by the slower revving diesel?

I run 7th (1st OD)while towing and it's flat, but drop to 6th (direct, less heat and more strength) in the rolling hills when the instant MPG reads less than 10. That saves 8th (2nd OD, weakest and more heat) for when I'm unloaded at high speeds.

I would be afraid of towing a big load in 8th because RPM's are too high in 7th and then towing in 7th in the rolling hills? Just seems like a bad idea on the weakest gears in the trans?

 

[biodiesel]

I tested stock and 37's towing 6K up the 9% grade one day apart and I preferred the gear spacing both up and down hill with the 37's which by numbers is equal to a Ram with 3.21's.....surprise?

That is surprising.

I run 7th (1st OD)while towing and it's flat, but drop to 6th (direct, less heat and more strength) in the rolling hills when the instant MPG reads less than 10. That saves 8th (2nd OD, weakest and more heat) for when I'm unloaded at high speeds.

I would be afraid of towing a big load in 8th because RPM's are too high in 7th and then towing in 7th in the rolling hills? Just seems like a bad idea on the weakest gears in the trans?

That's smart. I do the same when towing. I lockout 8th and tow in 7th. Depending on the terrain and speed, the truck sometimes downshifts to 4th or 5th on the steep climbs. I was coming down Bobcat Pass last week and the truck downshifted to 3rd gear to help hold speed. The steepest section is 9%.

 

[CrazyCooter]

That is surprising.



That's smart. I do the same when towing. I lockout 8th and tow in 7th. Depending on the terrain and speed, the truck sometimes downshifts to 4th or 5th on the steep climbs. I was coming down Bobcat Pass last week and the truck downshifted to 3rd gear to help hold speed. The steepest section is 9%.

I SOOO wish our shifting worked like a Ram's! I get so sick of doing it myself.......Sometimes I forget to upshift and figure out I've been driving in 5th or 6th for miles since the Eco is so buttery smooth and quiet!

 

[3TDJEEP]

I tested stock and 37's towing 6K up the 9% grade one day apart and I preferred the gear spacing both up and down hill with the 37's which by numbers is equal to a Ram with 3.21's.....surprise?

After I swapped to 4.10's we took a 2500 trip camping out of the truck with the RTT and I hated the RPM's and fuel economy was lower than 3.73's. Swapped the 38's on after we got home and its been like that for 3 years now? I did the math beforehand and knew what I really wanted was 3.92's on 37's but that wasn't an option, but 4.10 and 38's got me where I wanted.

I didn't test it, but it wouldn't surprise me if 0-60 was faster on the 37's too because it felt like it got out of a hole harder being loaded up vs limited by the slower revving diesel?

I run 7th (1st OD)while towing and it's flat, but drop to 6th (direct, less heat and more strength) in the rolling hills when the instant MPG reads less than 10. That saves 8th (2nd OD, weakest and more heat) for when I'm unloaded at high speeds.

I would be afraid of towing a big load in 8th because RPM's are too high in 7th and then towing in 7th in the rolling hills? Just seems like a bad idea on the weakest gears in the trans?

You have me questioning my decision to go Spicer 4.56 with 37's. Maybe I should hold off until I have a trailer of my own to test on. Got a great deal on the gear change from a master gear guy, kind of hate to pass up the deal.

Working on getting the dry weight down on the custom hauler. Deal is not dead yet. Pretty confident we got it down to 4800lbs without any major changes. Now I need to decide if I want to live on the edge with a max load of 1200lbs including some solar panels which I need to add. sure wish the JTRD had an extra 500lbs of cargo and tow rating. This would be a done deal.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Dry weight is part of it. The other is wind drag. Our Arctic Fox 22G is a widebody (8'6" wide) which puts tremendous drag on the Ram EcoDiesel (96 square feet). So, that's something else we need to pay attention to when selecting a camper for the Jeep.

Does anyone know what the frontal area restriction is for the Jeep Gladiator? According to AI, "Yes, the Jeep Gladiator does have a frontal area restriction for any towed camper or trailer. According to the vehicle's documentation, this limit is specifically set at 40 to 55 square feet, depending on your specific trim and factory towing package."

Here is what my 22JTRD owner manual says about frontal area.

 

[RudeJeepin]

I SOOO wish our shifting worked like a Ram's! I get so sick of doing it myself.......Sometimes I forget to upshift and figure out I've been driving in 5th or 6th for miles since the Eco is so buttery smooth and quiet!

I just did this exact thing on the way home today.
I put it into manual and hit 7th. Cruised along nicely, when an incline and a little extra go pedal had it shift all the way down to 5th. My wife asked if I meant to have it in manual still. I looked at the dash and that's when I noticed it was in 5th. Probably been there for 1/2 mile longer than it needed to be.
I hate the way manual mode works.

 

[NCJL]

NCJL, can you provide more details on you oil cooler. I have a Rubicon on 38's still with 3.73 axle and pull a 20' E-Pro, supposedly in the 4000lb range. Long interstate climbs will push the oil temp but otherwise no problems. Here in the east not western mountains!!

Short answer. Tapped into the factory ports, bottom of oil filter housing. From there to an Amsoil bypass filter/housing to Derale cooler w/fan. Returned to oil pan.
Search my post in Diesel cooling for Detailed info. Ask questions on that thread.

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