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How to do 37 inch tires

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Gshane

Gshane

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I'm running 37x13.5R20 Gladiator XComps on my 23 Sport. Wheels are 20x10 with a -25mm offset. No lift yet (wife is still healing from foot surgery) but I did add a 2" leveling kit to the front, Synergy track bar brace, and Rugged Ridge dual steering stabilizer. I also had to make 3/4" spacers to push the front bumper forward a little. Full size spare just fits under the bed between the heat shield and hitch. I do get a little bit of rub in the front at full lock and loaded down or a decent amount of articulation.

I'm probably going to do a fender chop in the near future and a 2-3" lift when she's healed. I have the factory 4.10 max tow package. My 21 Gladiator that got totalled in February had 4.10s and 35s. I don't notice any performance difference between the 35s and 37s. The JT is my daily. I have a built 99 WJ for the more serious off-roading.
Thx for that info!!
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I'm running 37x13.5R20 Gladiator XComps on my 23 Sport. Wheels are 20x10 with a -25mm offset. No lift yet (wife is still healing from foot surgery) but I did add a 2" leveling kit to the front, Synergy track bar brace, and Rugged Ridge dual steering stabilizer. I also had to make 3/4" spacers to push the front bumper forward a little. Full size spare just fits under the bed between the heat shield and hitch. I do get a little bit of rub in the front at full lock and loaded down or a decent amount of articulation.

I'm probably going to do a fender chop in the near future and a 2-3" lift when she's healed. I have the factory 4.10 max tow package. My 21 Gladiator that got totalled in February had 4.10s and 35s. I don't notice any performance difference between the 35s and 37s. The JT is my daily. I have a built 99 WJ for the more serious off-roading.
Thx for that info!!
 
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Rode my stockers till I had to replace them. Was torn between 35/37. I went with the nitto recon 37 by 11.5. 2 inch coil spacer lift. And a front adjustable track bar. I have a Rubicon and had planned on going to 4:88 right away. But honestly being in florida it hasn’t been near what I thought it would be. Mileage drop from 15.9 average to 14.5. Power is still there , still see 8th on the highway. Overall I’m very glad I went with the 37.
1940AAB5-7B75-4D7E-B39A-525600F8FE10.jpeg
Great rig!! Thx for the info.
 
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Do you have the list ?

“Best” 37 Inch Tire For Daily Driver?

If you search that title in the forums you'll find the list on page 13 off the thread
 

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Not sure why they would discourage you. 37s are at home on a Gladiator
Lots of reliability/breakage reasons for the Dana 44. The first thing that comes to my mind is the ability to come to a stop. Next up I would be thinking about joints, axles, stub shafts, and strain on lsd/e-locker diffs. By all means, you do you, am just saying that it’s pretty easy to find the risks of running 37s on Dana 44s online. Some drivers may get away with it for what they do.
 

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Lots of reliability/breakage reasons for the Dana 44. The first thing that comes to my mind is the ability to come to a stop. Next up I would be thinking about joints, axles, stub shafts, and strain on lsd/e-locker diffs. By all means, you do you, am just saying that it’s pretty easy to find the risks of running 37s on Dana 44s online. Some drivers may get away with it for what they do.
These Dana 44s are not the 44s from 20 years ago
 

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I have an added 7 yr 75K warranty and don't want to kill it. Tires might not but gears probably would. I don't know how people get the MPG they do. With my 315s I can't get 15 combined and never see over 16 highway. That is hand calculated.
 
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Lots of reliability/breakage reasons for the Dana 44. The first thing that comes to my mind is the ability to come to a stop. Next up I would be thinking about joints, axles, stub shafts, and strain on lsd/e-locker diffs. By all means, you do you, am just saying that it’s pretty easy to find the risks of running 37s on Dana 44s online. Some drivers may get away with it for what they do.
I've read all that too. My question is are 37s really that much harder on it than 35s? And how much does weight have to do with it? My 35s are Falken Wildpeaks that weigh 74lbs. If I found a 37 with similar weight (there are many - some even lighter) would they really be that much harder on it? Or is just pure diameter that causes the stress? I'm a newbie to all this and just trying to learn...
 
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I have an added 7 yr 75K warranty and don't want to kill it. Tires might not but gears probably would. I don't know how people get the MPG they do. With my 315s I can't get 15 combined and never see over 16 highway. That is hand calculated.
I hadn't even thought of that. Mines a 2022 I bought used with 16k miles. Its a CPO so it has a 7 yr 100k power train warranty. I bought it as a CPO with the lift and 35s already on it so I know those don't void it. I guess I should ask if 37s do...
 

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Okay, nuts and bolts of it. For mostly street use, if you already have a 2" lift up front, you can run 37's with a near 0 offset wheel. Factory wheels are +44. With a 0 offset you should have full lock to lock travel.
If you have the OEM front plastic bumper, you will need to trim the wings off of the fog light close out panels.

If you go off road in this configuration and have ANY articulation, you are going to rub various things up front.
 

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Thx. I was planning on it. I presently have 35s with a 2 inch lift and it runs great and averages over 17mpg. Has no problem grabbing 8th gear. Because I bought it used I honestly have no idea if the guy already had it regeared. If he didn't I will if I pull the trigger on 37s. If I stay with 35s I doubt I will cuz it's great as is...
I didn't mind 35s much with my 4.10s. But after getting 37 nittos I'm loving 5.13. It sucked with 4.10s.
 
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Okay, nuts and bolts of it. For mostly street use, if you already have a 2" lift up front, you can run 37's with a near 0 offset wheel. Factory wheels are +44. With a 0 offset you should have full lock to lock travel.
If you have the OEM front plastic bumper, you will need to trim the wings off of the fog light close out panels.

If you go off road in this configuration and have ANY articulation, you are going to rub various things up front.
Thx! t's got Black Rhino Chamber wheels. It's either a zero offset with a backspacing of 4.75 or a -18 offset with backspacing of 4. They were on it already. I've narrowed it down to those two.

Just curious to know your thoughts on what it might take to keep from rubbing with 37s if I did decide to do some mild off roading.
 

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Kind of in the same boat. 2021 JT Sport S., stock 3.73s. Currently running the 2" Mopar lift on stock 7.5" wide Overland wheels with on Falken Wildpeak AT3w 285/75R18s (35s) tires and 1.75" spacers. Adjusted for tire height with the JScan app. It's just a preference, but I like the look of the JTs on 37s. As it stands, 100% of my driving is on the road as a DD.
I like the stock Overland wheels and the 37s shouldn't cause any issues with the type of driving I do. I may get some push-back from Discount Tire when I go to have them installed due to the wheel width, but I know the manager and I think he would install them. Something else to consider is they are quite a bit heavier than the 35s. According to Falken's website the current tires weigh in at 65.9lbs, the 37s weigh in at 79.4lbs!
With j scan did you adjust to 33.75
 

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I've read all that too. My question is are 37s really that much harder on it than 35s? And how much does weight have to do with it? My 35s are Falken Wildpeaks that weigh 74lbs. If I found a 37 with similar weight (there are many - some even lighter) would they really be that much harder on it? Or is just pure diameter that causes the stress? I'm a newbie to all this and just trying to learn...
I’m no expert here either; my understanding is that the issues come into play b/c of leverage ( even same weight but further from the axle ) and torque. Examples might be include slick rock, wheel spin along with possible hopping, followed by 1 wheel grabbing real hard. Scenarios like that can shock load drive train components. So, in theory, all things being equal, the bigger tire ( or more traction) might put you in more risk, in terms of the front, turning hard with a front locker engaged would be more stressful with a bigger ( or more traction ) tire. You might get away with a lot of things in sand or moderate snow, and I would expect that rock crawling would need some balance between strength & slippage. Someone with more experience than me might be able to reference some triangle-relationship where you can pick 2-out-of-3, and the 3rd aspect will suffer. Strength, traction, reliability maybe.
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