is 0W-20 really the right oil ?

[Geoarch]

Yeah, I generally do not hold on to anything more than a couple of years even though I tell myself on every vehicle purchase I am going to keep until the wheels fall off. I get distracted wanting the next new thing.

I wish I could say that wasn't me too. My Tacoma TRDPro is a 2018 and my JTR has an ETA at the dealer 7/1, and I already have my Tacoma sold for the original MSRP.

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[DanW]

The long term durability standards have not been lowered, at least at FCA/Stellantis. In fact, with the reputation of Japanese manufacturers, they have probably increased them. So the challenge has been to increase fuel economy without sacrificing long term durability. I think the FCA standard I remember is something like 94% of engines would make it to 150k miles with the factory maintenance schedule. That's pretty good, if you ask me. I've seen enough Jeep products notrh of 150k to feel pretty confident in them. I've put two of them past that mark, myself, with my son pushing his 04 Grand Cherokee 4.7 steadily toward it with no issues. It gets 5k oil changes with Mobil 1. Runs like a clock.

 

[JTDay]

There's a white paper out there somewhere where there is some literature about the newer 3.6s having valvetrains specifically designed to use 0w20. Something about the oil passages being smaller than they used to be. If I were to get researchy, I'd buy the highest film strength 0w20 I could find. Maybe when the engine gets older, I'll use something thicker.

 

[DanW]

There's a white paper out there somewhere where there is some literature about the newer 3.6s having valvetrains specifically designed to use 0w20. Something about the oil passages being smaller than they used to be. If I were to get researchy, I'd buy the highest film strength 0w20 I could find. Maybe when the engine gets older, I'll use something thicker.

It was 100% designed and developed and tested with 0w20.

 

[coder]

The 0w (w is for winter) weight is for moving oil quickly through the engine during winter startups in below freezing temps not for fuel economy.

The 20 weight is where is the oil is normally at during operating temperature of 100 degrees (oil temp) or more.

Since a thicker winter ratered oil (5w or 10w) will move through the engine slower during cold winter startup it is much worse on your engine than the thinner oil.

 

[JTinVA]

The hot oil viscocity is all about the same. That said theoretically a 5-30W is a little thicker but its close to 0-20 and should NOT make a huge difference.

If you found your oil was degrading quickly or not lubricating when hot you could move to a 5-40w.

I ran 5-30w in my 2020 gladiator 3.6l because it had a tick at idle and rattle on cold start. It helped quiet it down a tiny bit until I traded for a smoother running diesel.

So the 5w30 helped quiet it down? I’m debating on running 5w30

 

[Not2Late]

I know thats what the oil cap calls for - and it sure does make it a bit easier to pour in - however I still do not feel comfortable with this oil weight - was there something done to the pentastars (tighter bearing clearances) that demand this thin oil ? I've heard from many folks who run hemi's that they run at-least a 5w30 weight oil and change regularly (I do 3k oil changes myself). It just does not seem like the oil is upto task for anything other than super cold arctic climates. For the record i've been using pennzoil platinum full synthetic 0w-20 and only mopar oil filters. Anyone running a heavier weight oil with success ?

Heres a good video that helped me decide what to do:

 

[DanW]

So the 5w30 helped quiet it down? I’m debating on running 5w30

Experiment with different 0w20s. Some can be perceived as quieter than others.

My buddy's JK Pentastar has 5 quarts of 5w30 and 1 quart of 100+ weight Lucas Stabilizer in it every oil change. (Yes, you heard me right.). That puts his oil somewhere north of a 60 weight, maybe way north. His Pentastar sounds the same as mine at idle. He's gone about 30k running that mix. He does it because a diesel mechanic suggested it for an old worn out Chevy 350 he had and he thinks it somehow is a good idea for this engine. Nobody can convince him otherwise.

One day he's going to regret that mix. But it is a tough engine that is hard to kill even when abused like that.

 

[JTinVA]

Heres a good video that helped me decide what to do:

So what are you running

 

[Not2Late]

So what are you running

So far I am sticking with 0-w20 as recommended by the manual. Does seem "thin". From what I have read, it seems like the important thing is to use a hi quality oil and change on a regular basis. I shoot for every 5k even though the manual/oil life gauge may let me go alot longer. I remember the days of 10w40 in all my cars.

 

[Hootbro]

So far I am sticking with 0-w20 as recommended by the manual. Does seem "thin". From what I have read, it seems like the important thing is to use a hi quality oil and change on a regular basis. I shoot for every 5k even though the manual/oil life gauge may let me go alot longer. I remember the days of 10w40 in all my cars.

There is nothing wrong with sticking to the owners manual recommendation. For 99% of users, they are never really in the margins to deviate from that.

 

[kevman65]

Your best bet, use what the manufacturer recommends.

If you feel adventurous, you can go to 0W30.

But, stick with full synthetic, and get all the certifications they require.

 

[JTinVA]

Would using 4 qts mobile 1 0w-20 and 1 qt Lucas oil stabilizer be ok? Would this be better then running 5w-30? Trying to quiet my jeep down some

 

[Hootbro]

Would using 4 qts mobile 1 0w-20 and 1 qt Lucas oil stabilizer be ok? Would this be better then running 5w-30? Trying to quiet my jeep down some

I think Lucas Oil Stabilizer is a mixed bag. Nothing I would even entertain especially in warranty.

You are trying to mask a problem that rarely a "miracle in a bottle" product fixes.

 

[Riccochet]

It was 100% designed and developed and tested with 0w20.

I would love to see proof of this.

The only thing different between a VVT and original Pentastar is the head. And that's only a minor change. Everything else on the VVT has the same part numbers as the original from 2010-2012. Bearings, pistons, rings, rods, oil pump, block. All the same.

Just like in 2013 when they switched from 5w30 to 5w20. Zero changes made to the engine, yet lighter oil. And then we started seeing an increase in follower/cam failures.

Now I'm tempted to pull a valve cover off both my '12 and '21 to look at the oil passages.

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