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Is Lift and Larger Tires Necessary for Overlanding

kevman65

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To this day, and 2 years (at least) later, no one understands - MAX TOW is available only on Sport/Sport S or models BASED on the Sport/Sport S such as FE, etc.
Rubicon cannot have max tow.
Overland cannot have max tow.
Anything based on Overland (HA, for example) cannot have max tow.
Mojave cannot have max tow.

You can have a standard towing package (with the 2" receiver) on the other models, but you cannot possibly buy/obtain Rubicon, Overland, Mojave, High Altitude and so on with max tow.



So, that extra .6" of diameter, or in other words, .3" extra height, is enough to justify?
Just wondering, because that's all the difference there is between the stock Overland 32.2" tires and the stock Rubicon 32.8" tires.
.6 total difference in diameter, for a gain of about 1/4" extra height.
Not saying it makes sense to have the differences at all because the differences are so very slight, but just tossing out there - such a little gain.
I think they should come with the same diameter to start with just to keep things even at the starting line. Go ahead and put the tires on the Overland for ride and mpg, go ahead - but then they'd have to recertify towing, etc. with the different tires.
I do find it interesting, though, that Jeep had different diameters when the difference was basically a total of a half inch. Big whoop.
You did see I said all trims, yes?

You do know that the Sport, which probably accounts for more sales than Overland, Rubicon, and Mojave combined, comes stock with less than a 31" tire, yes?
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ShadowsPapa

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You did see I said all trims, yes?

You do know that the Sport, which probably accounts for more sales than Overland, Rubicon, and Mojave combined, comes stock with less than a 31" tire, yes?
Yes, but even if all they did was match up the size on Overland and Rubicon, since they are SO very close.
I do wonder if for the Sport it was to gain advantage for max tow - since the engine RPM would be slightly higher for the given ground speed. The Rubicon with larger tires would be down slightly in RPM.
The sport would by a bit more zippy with the smaller diameter tires, fitting for the name and target. Then add max tow, you have the advantage of having engine RPM up in a better place for the load of towing, and payload.
I can see the differences there having meaning. that's why I didn't include the Sport in my reply. It makes sense to have the smaller diameter tires on Sport. It's more of a bumming around, fishing, hunting, hauling, towing, sportsman type things so keeping the engine RPM up should mean a bit more zip with the same diameter tires.

Makes sense to me to not bump the sport up - plus - again, CAFE, anyone?
And since you said that likely makes the majority of their sales....... there ya go.
 

kevman65

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Yes, but even if all they did was match up the size on Overland and Rubicon, since they are SO very close.
I do wonder if for the Sport it was to gain advantage for max tow - since the engine RPM would be slightly higher for the given ground speed. The Rubicon with larger tires would be down slightly in RPM.
The sport would by a bit more zippy with the smaller diameter tires, fitting for the name and target. Then add max tow, you have the advantage of having engine RPM up in a better place for the load of towing, and payload.
I can see the differences there having meaning. that's why I didn't include the Sport in my reply. It makes sense to have the smaller diameter tires on Sport. It's more of a bumming around, fishing, hunting, hauling, towing, sportsman type things so keeping the engine RPM up should mean a bit more zip with the same diameter tires.

Makes sense to me to not bump the sport up - plus - again, CAFE, anyone?
And since you said that likely makes the majority of their sales....... there ya go.

I think you can throw tire size out the window when it comes to towing. My Rubicon came stock with 33's and is heavier than the Sport(S) and Overland, yet I have more towing capability than a Sport or an Overland by 500 pounds.

The 33's aren't going to affect "zippiness" either, the engine, transmission, differentials will handle a 33 with no issues or JEEP never would have put them on the Rubicon.

If you don't like 33" tires and have no need for them, great for you. But if JEEP offered them stock on every trim level then the majority of people buying a JT could go where they want without having to buy a taller tire unless they wanted to.
 

ygrignon

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we bought our rubicon max tow
There is no such thing. Either Rubicon with tow package with 7000# maximum towing capacity OR Sport with Max Tow package with 7650# maximum towing capacity.
 

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Just a point of correction, there is no Rubicon, Max Tow.

There is a Rubicon. Or a Sport (and some sport based trims) with the Max Tow package.
Thanks for the correction. You are right. I misspoke, but with 4:10, Dana 44’s, and the extra engine/tranny cooling we still have a 7,000lb towing capacity, but you’re correct in that it’s not technically a max tow package.
 

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Rubicon with tow package already has literally everything the max tow package has (and more), so it's not incorrect imo. The max tow package basically uses the rubicon axles and both have the upgraded cooling and alternator. The rubicon has a slightly lower tow rating because it has 300-400lbs of extra weight in skid plates, lockers, sway disconnect and wheels/tires along with slightly reduced cooling due to the front skid plate. But they have the exact same equipment as it pertains to towing, and as soon as you mod a max tow you reduce the ability for it to tow by the exact amount of weight you add to it.
 

The White Rabbit

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IMO they built the thing with the stock angles and ground clearance for that purpose - buy it and use it.
Save the later lift and bigger tires for the toughest stuff if you need. Even stock these will do amazing things from what we can see even in this forum.

Check out what these CARS do then try to imagine that a JT can't do this? (I have one of these SX4s myself)

I concur. I’m also south Texas, if you’re not heading to serious mud holes or big mountains but staying on roads more traveled than stock will do just fine.
 

WILDHOBO

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Rubicon with tow package already has literally everything the max tow package has (and more), so it's not incorrect imo. The max tow package basically uses the rubicon axles and both have the upgraded cooling and alternator. The rubicon has a slightly lower tow rating because it has 300-400lbs of extra weight in skid plates, lockers, sway disconnect and wheels/tires along with slightly reduced cooling due to the front skid plate. But they have the exact same equipment as it pertains to towing, and as soon as you mod a max tow you reduce the ability for it to tow by the exact amount of weight you add to it.
Accurate and perfectly worded.
 

MattK

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Depends on what your definition of overlanding is. It's a term that's been shifting in definition for a while now. From international travel to camping in the county park are all considered overloading now by many.

Hardcore international traveling overlanders do as little as possible to the vehicle itself so it's more reliable and parts are easier to find. Finding a 35-37" tire on an international trip is hard.

A lot of what's going on in the US is like a hybrid of rock crawlers and overlanding. Lifts, 35-37s using overlanding concepts and gear to go remote. This is all fine as long as you know where you're going, the support the vehicle will have in those places as far as parts and service that you can't tackle yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/c/TheRoadChoseMe
This guy's done it all and is currently using a Gladiator to travel Australia. He has 33s and has done very little to the truck itself to keep it reliable and easy to maintain and fix.

Again it depends on your needs and definition of overlanding. My opinion is you need very little to take your vehicle camping other than tools, recovery gear, shelter, food and water. It seems most people won't even plan a trip until they "catch up with the Jonses".
 
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WILDHOBO

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Depends on what your definition of overlanding is. It's a term that's been shifting in definition for a while now. From international travel to camping in the county park are all considered overloading now by many.

Hardcore international traveling overlanders do as little as possible to the vehicle itself so it's more reliable and parts are easier to find. Finding a 35-37" tire on an international trip is hard.

A lot of what's going on in the US is like a hybrid of rock crawlers and overlanding. Lifts, 35-37s using overlanding concepts and gear to go remote. This is all fine as long as you know where you're going, the support the vehicle will have in those places as far as parts and service that you can't tackle yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/c/TheRoadChoseMe
This guy's done it all and is currently using a Gladiator to travel Australia. He has 33s and has done very little to the truck itself to keep it reliable and easy to maintain and fix.

Again it depends on your needs and definition of overlanding. My opinion is you need very little to take your vehicle camping other than tools, recovery gear, shelter, food and water. It seems most people won't even plan a trip until they "catch up with the Jonses".
Very well said. We as an example, but probably not the normal one, rock crawl when we’re camping, so a lift and bigger tires matter to us. However, the lift has been designed to handle the weight of the gear and trailer. We also only use our vehicle domestically, so parts should be reasonably accessible.
 
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BAT

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Depends on what your definition of overlanding is. It's a term that's been shifting in definition for a while now. From international travel to camping in the county park are all considered overloading now by many.

Hardcore international traveling overlanders do as little as possible to the vehicle itself so it's more reliable and parts are easier to find. Finding a 35-37" tire on an international trip is hard.

A lot of what's going on in the US is like a hybrid of rock crawlers and overlanding. Lifts, 35-37s using overlanding concepts and gear to go remote. This is all fine as long as you know where you're going, the support the vehicle will have in those places as far as parts and service that you can't tackle yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/c/TheRoadChoseMe
This guy's done it all and is currently using a Gladiator to travel Australia. He has 33s and has done very little to the truck itself to keep it reliable and easy to maintain and fix.

Again it depends on your needs and definition of overlanding. My opinion is you need very little to take your vehicle camping other than tools, recovery gear, shelter, food and water. It seems most people won't even plan a trip until they "catch up with the Jonses".
I have done very little to the truck since I got it back in 2020. Put on some Rubi take off tires/shocks, new bumper/winch and some offroad lights and ditch lights. I still want some quick sway bar releases but no rush. I may make a few more cosmetic changes and eventually some better shocks. I had thought I might go to 35' but I don't want to take another hit in the gas department with gas going up and up. Its still mostly my DD and Kayak Hauler to South Texas and South Louisiana. I'm still about a year or so out from being able to go take off on a long road camping trip.
 

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Very well said. We as an example, but probably not the normal one, rock crawl when we’re camping, so a lift and bigger tires matter to us. However, the lift has been designed to handle the weight of the gear and trailer. We also only use our vehicle domestically, so parts should be reasonably accessible.
I think you're a perfect example of what we're doing here in the US. A lift, some 35-37s and traveling around North America exclusively.
 

WILDHOBO

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I think you're a perfect example of what we're doing here in the US. A lift, some 35-37s and traveling around North America exclusively.
In that way, absolutely. I just mean not everyone rock crawls after unhooking the trailer. :) if we didn’t, I’d happily stay with the rubicon suspension on 33’s.
 
 



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