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Riccochet

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You're not the only one with a 2021 and loose wandering steering.

When they do the TSB for the steering box they also flash the computer. It could be that yours needs to be flashed. Then again, the flash did not fix mine.

I have a case with FCA and the dealer. Just waiting now. They might replace the steering box next, even though it's the updated one in there already.
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Has this new truck been sitting on a lot for awhile? I don't know when FCA switched over to the new steering box, but I would assume yours is the older version if its wandering.

As for the bouncing, my guess would be shocks being too stiff. Im not familiar enough with leveling kits, but if its messing with stock shock lengths, that may very well be the problem as well. Try giving it some time to see if they break in if it truly is a new truck.

My DD of the past 13 years, a Colorado Xtreme, jumps all over the place when it hits a bump at highway speeds. Drives me nuts. The back end will kick out and if Im not paying attention, it'll change lanes on me.
My 2015 Ford F250 did the same thing. Stiff as a board. For a big truck, it was a surprise that the suspension didn't compress, at all, without a significant load. In comparison, my Gladiator is like a Cadillac!
 

LAJEEPR

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When you installed the leveling kit did you loosen and re-torque the control arm bolts while it was still jacked up or did you let it settle on ground first so the bushings could get the right new pre-load? I made this error on my JK with a leveling kit and it affected how my suspension handled bumps and the handling.
 
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Komesk

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When you installed the leveling kit did you loosen and re-torque the control arm bolts while it was still jacked up or did you let it settle on ground first so the bushings could get the right new pre-load? I made this error on my JK with a leveling kit and it affected how my suspension handled bumps and the handling.
Shoot, I did not. I thought it is only to ease up axle move during installation.
How can fix it? Just loosen and retighten?
 

redrider

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When I received a new service vehicle the tire pressure monitor system was not calibrated correctly. Pressures were correct and balanced and not over pressurized. I read the OM and calibrated it myself. No more alarms. The infuriating thing was that it left the factory, went through the dealership and USC motor pool before coming to me. Could it be that assembly techs are using the tire fill system to gauge the pressure? Given that most people now let electrons tell them what is normal, it could be. Good luck with the suspension adjustment.
 

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jenkij

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As others have stated, it could likely be your tire pressure being too high, compounded with the live axle behaviors. Our lovely Michigan roads have lots of potholes, bumps and dips, and on big bumps on the highway I notice the jumpiness as well. I run my tires at about 40psi, and cruise about 78mph, so between those mine jumps some. The steering TSB seemed to fix it some, at least making the steering wheel feel more solid on the bumps.
Funny, when I think of bump steer Michigan roads come to mind, some of those roads in Ionia were scary with a solid axle.
 

LAJEEPR

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Shoot, I did not. I thought it is only to ease up axle move during installation.
How can fix it? Just loosen and retighten?
Yep park it somewhere level and loosen and retighten all the control arm bolts. Don’t remove the bolts, just get them loose. If you don’t do this the rubber bushings in the control arms stress under the incorrect preload and wear out faster. Torquing to spec under the Jeep is a major pain. But doable. It should be a noticeable improvement.
 

TJDave

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Mine has always driven straight and smooth. It's a 2020 with the old steering box.
I wanted to see if I could get the 1.5" spacer in there before I loosened the control arm bolts. No problemo. A little harder when I later swapped the 1.5" spacer for a 2.5" spacer. I had to have a friend push down on the hanging axle a little while I popped the spring back in. Still never messed with the control arm bolts. Checked the toe after each time. Still drives straight with one finger steering.

I hope that fixing a simple control arm bind is an easy fix to your problem.
 

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Watch all the videos and read the instructions, it clearly states to loosen control arm bolts and tighten once back on the ground
 

LAJEEPR

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Watch all the videos and read the instructions, it clearly states to loosen control arm bolts and tighten once back on the ground
Correct. There is a mechanical reason for this.

Apologies if this comes off preachy, I’m just repeating what I learned from making this mistake once.

Consider the bolts, the bracket you mount the control arm to, and the dense bushing on the socket on the end of the control arm. With the control arm in place, and the bolt inserted but not tightened, you can move the control arm in the mounting bracket. The truck frame gets it’s lift above the axle from the springs and shocks and settles in a natural position on level ground. When you tighten down the control arm bolt to frame or axle mount at a high torque (use the correct specs found elsewhere in this forum), think of the bracket like a clamp on that dense but flexible bushing. It squeezes the bushing in place and sets the control arm at the proper resting angle for the suspension. This is what we mean by pre-load. When the suspension flexes, the control arm can still move in the mount but under tension from the twisting bushing. The bushing is sprung/inclined to return to its natural resting point. So a stock Gladiator with properly torqued control arms will want to return to the stock level the bushings are pre-loaded to.

So when you lift the Jeep, a leveling kit is a suspension lift, and don’t do the step to reset the preload on the control arms, now that bushing is twisted up in the control arm socket when the suspension is “at-rest”. This leads to the bushing failing quite quickly depending on how you wheel. And then you can imagine how the handling can go bad really fast. Also, even before the bushing fails, it is still off by some degrees, twisted, so it is fighting with your springs and shocks over every bump. It wants to return past the point that your suspension settles.

I hope this makes sense and helps. Also, I’m sure there are some old salts or more seasoned mechanics that can pick apart what I’ve wrote above. Please do, we come to these forums to be better at DIY and help each other out when possible. If I have anything wrong above I will correct it.
 
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Komesk

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Alright. Finally I was able to properly preload control arms. Suspension fills much-much better now! Thank you, everybody who pointed out for the solution. I have not had a chance to drive on highway yet to see if the steering is better now too.

Nevertheless the steering is still loose to my taste. I mean it is way too sensitive. Is there a way to firm it up? To make if fill the same as in my old TJ?
 

Phljeeper

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Alright. Finally I was able to properly preload control arms. Suspension fills much-much better now! Thank you, everybody who pointed out for the solution. I have not had a chance to drive on highway yet to see if the steering is better now too.

Nevertheless the steering is still loose to my taste. I mean it is way too sensitive. Is there a way to firm it up? To make if fill the same as in my old TJ?
You can add an adjustable steering stabilizer (Falcon or Fox) to tighten it up some for a few hundred dollars or you could spend thousands and replace the steering with a system like PSC.
 

Gunnuts

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Correct. There is a mechanical reason for this.

Apologies if this comes off preachy, I’m just repeating what I learned from making this mistake once.

Consider the bolts, the bracket you mount the control arm to, and the dense bushing on the socket on the end of the control arm. With the control arm in place, and the bolt inserted but not tightened, you can move the control arm in the mounting bracket. The truck frame gets it’s lift above the axle from the springs and shocks and settles in a natural position on level ground. When you tighten down the control arm bolt to frame or axle mount at a high torque (use the correct specs found elsewhere in this forum), think of the bracket like a clamp on that dense but flexible bushing. It squeezes the bushing in place and sets the control arm at the proper resting angle for the suspension. This is what we mean by pre-load. When the suspension flexes, the control arm can still move in the mount but under tension from the twisting bushing. The bushing is sprung/inclined to return to its natural resting point. So a stock Gladiator with properly torqued control arms will want to return to the stock level the bushings are pre-loaded to.

So when you lift the Jeep, a leveling kit is a suspension lift, and don’t do the step to reset the preload on the control arms, now that bushing is twisted up in the control arm socket when the suspension is “at-rest”. This leads to the bushing failing quite quickly depending on how you wheel. And then you can imagine how the handling can go bad really fast. Also, even before the bushing fails, it is still off by some degrees, twisted, so it is fighting with your springs and shocks over every bump. It wants to return past the point that your suspension settles.

I hope this makes sense and helps. Also, I’m sure there are some old salts or more seasoned mechanics that can pick apart what I’ve wrote above. Please do, we come to these forums to be better at DIY and help each other out when possible. If I have anything wrong above I will correct it.
I didn't do this when I put front rubicon springs in my max tow. I do feel like the steering has gotten a little sloppy over the last 8k or so. I'll also be putting rubicon axles in soon. Thanks for the explanation. I didn't even think about this.
 

H_pipe

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While we are talking about tire pressure, any thoughts on what PSI to run 285/70/17 KO2's for a nice even wear?
I just went from my factory steel 245/75/17 to the 285/70/17's and I am looking for suggestions on what to run in order for them to wear evenly. My driving will consist mostly of backroads and highway. Occasionally, I will have an ATV in back and tow a trailer but I can always adjust for those trips.
 

Gvsukids

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While we are talking about tire pressure, any thoughts on what PSI to run 285/70/17 KO2's for a nice even wear?
I just went from my factory steel 245/75/17 to the 285/70/17's and I am looking for suggestions on what to run in order for them to wear evenly. My driving will consist mostly of backroads and highway. Occasionally, I will have an ATV in back and tow a trailer but I can always adjust for those trips.
Use the chalk test.
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