In the summer I run the softtop open when I can. I've got an hour and change drive back and forth to work (each way). The doors are on. In the winter I switch back to the hard top. I don't have any additional sound killing accessories. This was the parts list provided to me by the company I'm going to use to install the system (Audiopros in Brantford, ON); I wired up the Voswitch I have, but I think the amp/speaker/headunit is a little bit beyond me, especially if I want it to look good. They say they've used this setup before. So far we've only communicated via email but I'll reach out about specifics, like locations of components, next week.Do you plan on removing the rear underseat plastic/box, tools/jack, and bolt tray? You may need to remove the seats too as the center bracket at the split is less than the length of that enclosure. I've been having a hard time finding a good downfiring 12 that fits myself.
You may want to consider building or having a custom enclosure for the truck if you want to maintain your rear seats and not have it poke out or take up the whole underseat area. I plan on building my own enclosure to use the passenger rear underseat for a Kicker L7T 10" (since the square cone is actually closer to a round 12) and the t/s specs look promising.
The real question is:
- Do you want louder with doors/top on, or off?
If you never take the doors/top off, you can get away with less for sub-bass. I take the doors/top off frequently (temps permitting) and have MTs so I need it to be capable of being MUCH louder, ALL of it.
I have them in my 22 Rubicon along with better dash speakers but I haven't changed the kick panel speakers. With the top and doors on the improvement is very noticable but it didn't make much difference for me when they are off. Having said that, I'm 58 with bad hearing so it might be better for you. I believe the only thing that will help for me is more power and I haven't bothered with a better amp.Has anyone replaced their soundbar speakers with these? If so what’s your thoughts. I have the factory premium Alpine.
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You can't expect the crappy OEM amp to magically output MORE power, definitely not 30w per channel more power. Get rid of the crappy oem stuff and do it right. Expecting aftermarket speakers that require 10x the rms wattage to perform AT ALL on 3 watts is absurd. Remove the OEM sub, and mount an amp on the back wall. Those 6.5" knee and soundbar speakers will outperform the stock sub when amped and tuned properly.I did the complete KS package from Trail Seven. Initially I opted for the 6.5 speakers in the knee panels but honestly the sound was worse than the factory Alpine speakers that came in the truck. Come to find out, the factory sub doesn't have enough power to support the 6.5" speakers and the upgraded overhead speakers and dash speakers. I replaced the 6.5" speakers with the KS 4" speakers and the sound dramatically improved but even then, I wasn't overly impressed. It's better than the factory alpine setup but not by much. Not sure which route to go because most options that sound better require a different amp but you lose the factory subwoofer. Since I use my underseat tray for storage, my options are more limited until someone can come up with a new subwoofer that fits into the same space as the factory. MB Quart was on my list but I'm not ready to give up my storage tray yet.