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Major Failure at 30k

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Mike-len

Mike-len

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My Ecodiesel is gone now, engine fire, back in February. Probably the block heater.

My truck was deleted at 120k or so, driven hard, overloaded, etc etc.

Had an oil cooler failure, CP4 failure. 2 lift pumps. Otherwise maintenance, brakes, wheel bearings.

Enjoyed the truck, would not buy another, just because of stories like these.

There was an Ecodiesel Gladiator literally next to our Mojave on the lot, for 5k cheaper, and I still took the Mojave.

I wouldn't delete a truck under warranty, I wouldn't trust a non-deleted truck not to yeet it's guts out due to the emissions at will.
Did it come with a block heater or did you add one? After driving multiple jeeps over the years, I really feel like the diesel is the perfect powerplant for the gladiator. I love the torque. After reading many people’s opinions, I feel like it’s very possible that my dealer wasn’t using the correct oil, but there’s no way for me to prove it, and besides it’s all covered under warranty so I’ll make sure the correct oil is used from now on and I’ll let the turbo cool down before shutting off the engine.
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Stan H

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Did it come with a block heater or did you add one? After driving multiple jeeps over the years, I really feel like the diesel is the perfect powerplant for the gladiator. I love the torque. After reading many people’s opinions, I feel like it’s very possible that my dealer wasn’t using the correct oil, but there’s no way for me to prove it, and besides it’s all covered under warranty so I’ll make sure the correct oil is used from now on and I’ll let the turbo cool down before shutting off the engine.
The second one is extremely important . Even after getting the correct oil ..
There is a guide line for the amount of time for turbo cool down. I owned 2-6.7's
 

Jrgunn5150

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Did it come with a block heater or did you add one?
Factory block heater.

I think it's most important they get up to temp.

In the winter, mine wouldn't go over 180 without the grille cover on.

I think people don't load them, work them, or get them hot. Live in town, work in town, run to home Depot on the weekend, put 4k miles a year on and balk at someone like me running 1200 a week.

Those tended to be the types I saw having failures.
 

biodiesel

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My Ecodiesel is gone now, engine fire, back in February. Probably the block heater.
I'm sorry to hear this. The last I heard, you had 443,000 miles on your EcoDiesel. Do you remember the approximate odometer reading when the truck caught fire?
 

biodiesel

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I think people don't load them, work them, or get them hot. Live in town, work in town, run to home Depot on the weekend, put 4k miles a year on and balk at someone like me running 1200 a week.

Those tended to be the types I saw having failures.
My 2015 Ram EcoDiesel has done a fair share of heavy towing. It's towed the travel from coast to coast and many places in-between. Plus, it's my work truck from time to time. However, I've driven it 4 - 8 miles to work and 4 - 8 miles home since buying it new. While I agree that short commutes are harder on the emissions system, I don't believe it is highly problematic in overall engine longevity. It just turned 130,000 miles on the odometer.

Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k h7xWd4


Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k t6Sc12


Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k hstbXQc


Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k az4Yd5f


Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k K51kYgy
 

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Mike-len

Mike-len

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Factory block heater.

I think it's most important they get up to temp.

In the winter, mine wouldn't go over 180 without the grille cover on.

I think people don't load them, work them, or get them hot. Live in town, work in town, run to home Depot on the weekend, put 4k miles a year on and balk at someone like me running 1200 a week.

Those tended to be the types I saw having failures.
Do they all have factory block heaters? I never daily drive mine and it never touches the snow in the winter. It’s strictly been for towing the boat and long trip’s camping all over the country. That’s why I think this was dealer error when changing the oil. Even the dealer that’s doing the work on it now couldn’t give me an answer on what oil they used for the oil change. I don’t think the dealers care.
 

Rusty PW

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Do they all have factory block heaters? I never daily drive mine and it never touches the snow in the winter. It’s strictly been for towing the boat and long trip’s camping all over the country. That’s why I think this was dealer error when changing the oil. Even the dealer that’s doing the work on it now couldn’t give me an answer on what oil they used for the oil change. I don’t think the dealers care.
Block heaters came in them up to 2021. But you had to buy the cord from the block heater to the extension cord. 2022 on, you have to buy the block heater and install it. There is 2 different styles. One replaces the screw in brass. block plug. The other clips into the brass block plug. Plus you still have to buy the cord. Takes about 30 minutes to install. Plus another 30 minutes to route the cord. There is a couple of threads on this.

Here's the screw in block heater.

Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k 1753313220680-3s


Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k 1753313245605-et
 
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Mike-len

Mike-len

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Block heaters came in them up to 2021. But you had to buy the cord from the block heater to the extension cord. 2022 on, you have to buy the block heater and install it. There is 2 different styles. One replaces the screw in brass. block plug. The other clips into the brass block plug. Plus you still have to buy the cord. Takes about 30 minutes to install. Plus another 30 minutes to route the cord. There is a couple of threads on this.

Here's the screw in block heater.

1753313220680-3s.jpg


1753313245605-et.jpg
Thanks for the Good info. Mine is a ‘22. Mine sits outside in the winter in Minnesota. I rarely drive it during the winter so I’m sure if I need one or not.
 

Rusty PW

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Thanks for the Good info. Mine is a ‘22. Mine sits outside in the winter in Minnesota. I rarely drive it during the winter so I’m sure if I need one or not.
I have mine set to come on with a timer. It comes on about 2 hours before I leave for work. Zero temp. It will get the coolant up to 100F.
 

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The gen3 oil spec says 5w-40 sn/sn+. Rotella t6 meets the sn spec. The build up they are talking about is most likely due to blow by oil fouling the compressor wheel/cover. That won’t kill the turbo bearing seals. We used to estimate 1-3% fuel economy loss on some slightly larger diesel engines due to this. I think any engine with closed crankcase ventilation and a turbocharger is susceptible to this fouling. I assume the SN oil spec added detergents to the oil to reduce/prevent this. It probably also reduces build up on the back of the valves like the first direct injected vwag and bmw engines had.
 

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Be happy your fuel pump didn't crap out at 4581 miles like mine. Basically if no one has said it.
Shit happens. 💩 💩 💩
It just happened to you the worst way possible.
 

biodiesel

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The gen3 oil spec says 5w-40 sn/sn+. Rotella t6 meets the sn spec.
Just to be clear, Rotella T6 doesn't meet the MS-12991 spec, which is why a service bulletin was sent to the service departments making that known. In addition, a video was presented by the Master Tech showing pictures of a turbo that was allegedly pulled off a test mule. Here's what the picture looks like:

Jeep Gladiator Major Failure at 30k T8mIoEd
 

windellmc

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Just to be clear, Rotella T6 doesn't meet the MS-12991 spec, which is why a service bulletin was sent to the service departments making that known. In addition, a video was presented by the Master Tech showing pictures of a turbo that was allegedly pulled off a test mule. Here's what the picture looks like:

T8mIoEd.jpg
I would be curious to know what kind of duty cycle that ran and if it’s from blow by or turbo bearings. I see now that the service notice says the ms spec AND sn/sn+. It is hard to believe the turbo is that sensitive to a common diesel oil.
 

biodiesel

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I would be curious to know what kind of duty cycle that ran and if it’s from blow by or turbo bearings. I see now that the service notice says the ms spec AND sn/sn+. It is hard to believe the turbo is that sensitive to a common diesel oil.
We know from internal sources that some of the test mules were run on boats out in the ocean. The service bulletin says that "using the oil specified for the GEN 2 engine in the GEN 3, will lead to deposits forming in the turbo charger, leading to reduced performance." The issue isn't the turbo. As a matter of fact, that turbo is used on other applications that are approved for Rotella T6. I've been told that Rotella T6 can't hand the high heat and internal pressures of the Gen 3 engine, which will cause coking.
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