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CCOlotti

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Installed mine today. What a pain in the rear. Really mopar could you have made that any more painful?

Hardest part of the knob install was getting the 12v socket out. Now that i know what to do it would be easier 2nd time.

Now the controller box. The mounting.. my back will never be the same. A contortionist would be helpful. There was a plug harness taped to the body inner wall right where the controller goes so that needed to be undone. Getting the upper nut on was a test of patience. Connect the harnesses before putting nuts on. Ask me how i know. The hole for the upper nut needs the Christmas tree plug removed. No good way to get at it some cursing was involved.

Cord from the knob just makes it. The cord to the vehicle harness is ridiculously long.

It's done but my kids may have increased their vocabulary.

Jeep please just make this a factory option.
I agree removing the 12v plug was the hardest part. šŸ˜‚. The mounting wasnā€™t bad once I figured out what the picture was trying to show. I agree the large plug was way longer than it needed to be my switch cable seems to reach just fine with about 4-5ā€ left maybe just how I routed it.
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CCOlotti

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SO I got a trailer tester but the LED's are not ever coming on like in the other photos. I did confirm the tester BK light does come on with the manual button is pushed or the pedal is pressed, but is there something with the tester vs a real trailer in regards to the knob LED's? When I first installed it and plugged it in they did flash quickly and (yes I did turn on the headlights) thinking the LED's were tired into that. So I am trying to figure out if it is working properly...

From the manual screen caps if a trailer is "connected" it should be white, but not sure if a tester vs real trailer is valid for the LED's to sense that...this is new to me :)
 

CCOlotti

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Installed mine today. What a pain in the rear. Really mopar could you have made that any more painful?

Hardest part of the knob install was getting the 12v socket out. Now that i know what to do it would be easier 2nd time.

Now the controller box. The mounting.. my back will never be the same. A contortionist would be helpful. There was a plug harness taped to the body inner wall right where the controller goes so that needed to be undone. Getting the upper nut on was a test of patience. Connect the harnesses before putting nuts on. Ask me how i know. The hole for the upper nut needs the Christmas tree plug removed. No good way to get at it some cursing was involved.

Cord from the knob just makes it. The cord to the vehicle harness is ridiculously long.

It's done but my kids may have increased their vocabulary.

Jeep please just make this a factory option.
Are you getting the LED's lit up? see my last post about trying a trailer plug tester.
 

jwilson2899

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where did you get the manual? Wasnā€™t in the box with the install instructions.
Also the ā€œmanualā€ button. Does it just ease its way back out? Seems a little odd you can push it and wiggle it back out a little but itā€™s not so spring loaded. Feels odd thatā€™s all.
The instructions were in the box with everything else. Itā€™s a smaller card, separate from the instruction sheet. My button is fully spring loaded and pops right back out when I let go.
 

CCOlotti

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The instructions were in the box with everything else. Itā€™s a smaller card, separate from the instruction sheet. My button is fully spring loaded and pops right back out when I let go.
Well, the button on mine is 100% not spring loaded and there was no spring in the box so not sure where it was supposed to be, but it really has zero momentary toggle to it like a button should have.

Nor is it lighting up with a trailer tester for the LED's, but I am not sure if the tester will act like "trailer connected" for the LED's to light up. Well, it Figures nothing can be easy. Always my luck. And 100% no instructions in the box which seems common from others.

Guess now itā€™s time to have the dealer look at it since itā€™s a Mopar part it should be covered under warranty regardless of who installed it.
 
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Well, the button on mine is 100% not spring loaded and there was no spring in the box so not sure where it was supposed to be, but it really has zero momentary toggle to it like a button should have.

Nor is it lighting up with a trailer tester for the LED's, but I am not sure if the tester will act like "trailer connected" for the LED's to light up. Well, it Figures nothing can be easy. Always my luck. And 100% no instructions in the box which seems common from others.

Guess now itā€™s time to have the dealer look at it since itā€™s a Mopar part it should be covered under warranty regardless of who installed it.
Depending on what tester you use, it should act like the trailer brakes are connected. I know some of them wonā€™t provide the resistance necessary. The Tekonsha tester I have does, so when I plug it in, I can see the green light on the knob, the backlighting comes on, and pressing the brakes or the manual button turns the green light red as it should.

Definitely sounds like something is jacked up with your controller.
 

CCOlotti

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Depending on what tester you use, it should act like the trailer brakes are connected. I know some of them wonā€™t provide the resistance necessary. The Tekonsha tester I have does, so when I plug it in, I can see the green light on the knob, the backlighting comes on, and pressing the brakes or the manual button turns the green light red as it should.

Definitely sounds like something is jacked up with your controller.
Yeah time to have deal look and deal with it I guess....
 

macgyvr

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Mine installed just as many of you have posted about. I stood on my head trying to figure out where the $%^& the controller box went and the lighter was a pita to get out (would be easier if I do it again).

My controller manual brake button is not spring loaded. In fact I pushed it and it made the brake lights stick on. It also set off all the dash lights which I had the dealer so the programming and it was fixed. I got home from the dealer after hitting the manual brake button again and it didn't come out. I then realized after I stopped for gas that the brake lights on my truck were stuck on. I drove home and they went off.

I plugged my trailer in and everything works as it should. I did not hit the manual button again and don't plan too unless I need too. The controller lights up red when hitting the brakes and goes back green when not hitting the brakes. The trailer stops and I don't have a brake controller flopping around the cab of my truck.

I'm not sure what the correct way that button for the manual operation should be working, I feel like it should pop back out like it's spring loaded...for now tho, I won't hit it, I don't have any more time to mess with it.

mac 'too busy for my own good' gyvr
 

CCOlotti

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Mine installed just as many of you have posted about. I stood on my head trying to figure out where the $%^& the controller box went and the lighter was a pita to get out (would be easier if I do it again).

My controller manual brake button is not spring loaded. In fact I pushed it and it made the brake lights stick on. It also set off all the dash lights which I had the dealer so the programming and it was fixed. I got home from the dealer after hitting the manual brake button again and it didn't come out. I then realized after I stopped for gas that the brake lights on my truck were stuck on. I drove home and they went off.

I plugged my trailer in and everything works as it should. I did not hit the manual button again and don't plan too unless I need too. The controller lights up red when hitting the brakes and goes back green when not hitting the brakes. The trailer stops and I don't have a brake controller flopping around the cab of my truck.

I'm not sure what the correct way that button for the manual operation should be working, I feel like it should pop back out like it's spring loaded...for now tho, I won't hit it, I don't have any more time to mess with it.

mac 'too busy for my own good' gyvr
So you have the same button issue Iā€™m seeing but Iā€™m not sure if my tester has the right resistance to light up the knob. May need to test with my neighbors real trailer.
 

macgyvr

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So you have the same button issue Iā€™m seeing but Iā€™m not sure if my tester has the right resistance to light up the knob. May need to test with my neighbors real trailer.
I would test on a real trailer, I doubt that tester is giving you enough for it to think there's a trailer back there. It's also possibly not going to give you a reaction if it doesn't sense trailer brakes. Yes I have the same button issue. If you figure out it, please report back.

mac 'pushes my buttons' gyvr
 

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Meanwhile, a friend installed a Redarc in his 4Runner, took half an hour, and worked perfectly to start with. Another option to consider. It's the same in-dash button style.
 

CCOlotti

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I would test on a real trailer, I doubt that tester is giving you enough for it to think there's a trailer back there. It's also possibly not going to give you a reaction if it doesn't sense trailer brakes. Yes I have the same button issue. If you figure out it, please report back.

mac 'pushes my buttons' gyvr
You are right a real trailer tested fine, LED's lit up.....Still don't like the button that is not spring loaded at all I may call the dealer about that part, but at least I know it's working with an actual trailer with brakes.
 

olecarguy

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You are right a real trailer tested fine, LED's lit up.....Still don't like the button that is not spring loaded at all I may call the dealer about that part, but at least I know it's working with an actual trailer with brakes.
When I installed my controller months ago I noticed similarly that the center of the controller dash button was not spring loaded. Then realized I had not properly aligned the slot and pin when installing it. Id not properly aligned the unit snaps in place, but doesnā€™t set fully. Once corrected it worked properly. Iā€™m confident this is your problem as well. Recheck the installation of the dash switch.
 

CCOlotti

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When I installed my controller months ago I noticed similarly that the center of the controller dash button was not spring loaded. Then realized I had not properly aligned the slot and pin when installing it. Id not properly aligned the unit snaps in place, but doesnā€™t set fully. Once corrected it worked properly. Iā€™m confident this is your problem as well. Recheck the installation of the dash switch.
seems there was only so many ways to align it so ā€œ1ā€ it at the top center. Any pics to better explain?
 

CCOlotti

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For everyone with the button issue I found the fix. Itā€™s the sliver inner ring not being seated properly Causing it to rub on the button.

remove the assembly and pop the silver ring. Reseat it until it clicks and the button should drop and and out without rubbing.

Sadly I marred the silver a bit trying to just free the button before pulling the dash apart again

and your knob will turn much easier too. Hard to believe so many people have this issue. Shoddy assembly of the parts.




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