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WXman

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After watching one of the dead pedal install videos I would agree. At least one of the mounting points for it is the same as the controller module.
This has been a Great Thread! Thanks to all who have added to it! I had already ordered the Mopar TB at a good price so I’ll keep it but before installing I ordered the Tekonsha 3073-P from Amazon, $14.36 (since my Glady production date is 11-19)... in for a penny in for a pound! Like Dean said, I will remove my front seat to give me some extra room since these ‘little ’ installs always takes me twice as long then everyone else. Since I also flat tow my Jeeps I installed a Mopar brake light kit on my JKUR and had to remove the passenger seat to give me room to work. The part worked great but it was a PITA and I have gone with a wireless system on the JT which works great and no removing seats, but I digress, thanks again Jeepers I have no doubt you have saved me a ton of work and frustration!!!
It has been a great thread. When it was said that the Mopar controller won't work with a dead pedal, that was going to be a no-go for me. I have to have that dead pedal for long drives. But then we saw pictures of modifications to the dead pedal that can render it useful.

Here's a question I have... I put a M.O.R.E. dead pedal in my last JT. It was a little bit difficult to snake my fingers in there to thread the nuts on. Not really a fun job. With the Mopar brake controller in place, does it make the deal pedal installation even harder??
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Sower3213

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I have a different brand Dead Pedal (DP)currently mounted in the JT, it looks like it has less metal (that’s why it was cheaper I guess) so hoping I doing have to remove and trim it. I too think a DP should be standard equipment.......
 

olecarguy

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Getting the M.O.R.E. bracket that has the screws mounted to it in place is tedious. So much so, that I found it was easier to remove the driver kick panel to gain better access. To do this you need to unlock and decouple electrical plug, carefully insert a screwdriver into the tab on the black mounting clip and slide the plug down off the clip, and unscrew the 2 mounting screws for the door check strap, then the panel pops off with a little wiggle wiggle tap tap under the dash and at the joint mid seat. I also loosened the lower controller mounting screw to enable me to move the controller outward towards the fender. Once I did those two steps it when in much easier to install the mounting screw/bracket. Once it was in place, and before I installed the pedal I tightened the controller nut, then held the more bracket with screws in place with one hand while placing the assembled pedal over the screws and catching a few threads on each screw.
 

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I spent about 6 hours yesterday installing the OEM brake module (I told you it takes me a lot longer to do these projects, I take my time so I don’t screw it up) I also had to remove my Dead Pedal and grind the tip down to reveal that screw hole. That worked out good whereas I wanted to adjust that pedal up anyway. I didn’t remove my front seat and overall it went pretty smoothly, made much easier by all y’all’s Impute and pics... Thank you! I have attached a copy of a disclaimer from Mopar online parts website, where they indicate that JT’s produced prior to January 8, 2020 ‘may’ require a computer update (TSB # 08-102-20).

130172E4-B94D-4660-9D7D-877CEF6BEEF0.jpeg
 

Mball488

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I just ordered mine from www.bamwholesaleparts.com they have a few in stock per the email. The price has dropped considerably to $235.20. $247.77 shipped. PN: 82215652AB
 

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Anybody notice a low output from the Mopar Brake Controller?
Is it just me?
Seems the same on 3 different trailers.
 

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Anybody notice a low output from the Mopar Brake Controller?
Is it just me?
Seems the same on 3 different trailers.
By low output - what do you mean?
I did note that compared to the REDARC, I had to set the MOPAR controller dial higher to get the same brake effect. But the brakes worked fine once I determined where to set the dial at.
My trailer brakes worked - so how are you determining low output if the brakes work?
Curious........... that's all.
 

AmishMike

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To get the same braking ability out of my trailer(s) I had to turn up the factory Mopar controller higher than other controllers. Let's pick one in particular to get the 'same' braking as tested by the 'lock-up method' in my driveway both on gravel and blacktop.
8.5 Mopar
6.0 Factory GMC
5.5 Napa
6.0 Tekonsha


Yes, being pulled by different vehicles but that should not change the coefficiencies of the trailer. After testing 3 different trailers with similar results I am wondering what are the limitations of the controller? I have only pulled 4,500 lbs with this controller set to 9.0 (with no lock up on gravel).
Anyone using the factory brake controller on something close to the vehicle max?
 

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To get the same braking ability out of my trailer(s) I had to turn up the factory Mopar controller higher than other controllers. Let's pick one in particular to get the 'same' braking as tested by the 'lock-up method' in my driveway both on gravel and blacktop.
8.5 Mopar
6.0 Factory GMC
5.5 Napa
6.0 Tekonsha


Yes, being pulled by different vehicles but that should not change the coefficiencies of the trailer. After testing 3 different trailers with similar results I am wondering what are the limitations of the controller? I have only pulled 4,500 lbs with this controller set to 9.0 (with no lock up on gravel).
Anyone using the factory brake controller on something close to the vehicle max?
4900-5000 pounds, MOPAR set to about 6.5 pushing the button definitely slowed my truck. I did not try it loaded on gravel but I'm sure it would have locked or come close to locking the wheels.
Redarc set to 5 but that was unloaded, still a similar effect.
The numbers aren't a specific "we send this much power" type of thing so really it's not like saying "we're sending 8.4 volts at 5" as some sort of standard.
Unloaded and just idling down my neighbor's drive to get to my shop/parking area, at 6.5 the MOPAR controller kept my trailer wheels locked.
Different brake solenoids will respond differently to the setting so yes, the only fair comparison is the same exact trailer loaded the same way.
Since these respond when detecting acceleration or deceleration you also have to compare them on the same slope at the same speed with the same level of change in speed.
 

AmishMike

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Yes, I realize that these numbers are arbitrary. 8.5 means nothing when compared to another controller. Heck they don't even all use 0-10.0. Can't even say that I am convinced that their out put is linear like 6.0 is twice as much as 3.0 etc..
Think Calvinball.
Jeep Gladiator Mopar Trailer Brake Controller for Jeep Gladiator Officially Released (Part # 82215652AB) 1632766784234
 

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Thanks. I am definitely going to get this. I like the way it looks compared to my old brake controller on my 4Runner which looked like an old TI84 graphing calculator strapped to my dashboard.
 

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Yes, I realize that these numbers are arbitrary. 8.5 means nothing when compared to another controller. Heck they don't even all use 0-10.0. Can't even say that I am convinced that their out put is linear like 6.0 is twice as much as 3.0 etc..
Think Calvinball.
Jeep Gladiator Mopar Trailer Brake Controller for Jeep Gladiator Officially Released (Part # 82215652AB) 1632766784234
Well, I guess there's one way to find out if it's linear or not - but such a waste of time LOL
It handles my trailer with load fine, so I'm ok with it. It works.
 

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The way it has been handled is terrible, but the item was tested and there is a resolution. The fix was implemented, at the factory, long before the controller was available to install. The sad thing is the controller offers nothing over aftermarket, other than the factory installed look. The TSB for the ABS module fixes the brake controller issues. In the meantime, the market came up with their own repair method, which is the diode in the controller harness.
You’re saying their IS a fix for the Mopar Trailer Brake not working on my early build gladiator? I’m still searching the forums but if you can point me in the correct direction… I just want this sucker to work after the time and money to install it. I don’t mind installing a diode with a little guidence.
 

ShadowsPapa

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You’re saying their IS a fix for the Mopar Trailer Brake not working on my early build gladiator? I’m still searching the forums but if you can point me in the correct direction… I just want this sucker to work after the time and money to install it. I don’t mind installing a diode with a little guidence.
Screw the diode. Go to page 28 of this thread, my last post on that page. Take the tsb to the dealer and explain that when u press the brake controller button bad things light up on your dash. Make them flash your abs to the latest version or per the tsb i posted on page 28 here. It's their problem to fix, not yours
 
 



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