Need advice from veteran Gladiator owners - thanks for your help

[Geoff Massa]

Wow,

What a great forum with quick responses. My travels will include desert, high Sierra's and Pacific Northwest. The reason for the big delta between the Ruby and the sport is because if I went Ruby I selected a lot of other option for trails. Maybe I should just find the most basic Ruby and look at that.

What options do you think I should select on a Ruby if I go that route? Should I look at any options? What do you think are must haves. I will be on fairly rougher trails sometimes, but, I will not actively seek out rock crawling or putting the Jeep to the test on purpose.

Geoff

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[NachoRuby]

Unless you order from the factory, there are no "base" Rubicons. At least not when I bought mine in April '21. There might be some around the US, but the base price point is a marketing scam.

That must really depend on where you live. I didn't factory order, and mine is pretty base. I have hard top, metal front bumper, spray in liner. And nothing else. It was just sitting on the lot. And they have two more similarly equipped sitting on the same lot right now, one even with a soft top (rare around here for any trim of wrangler or gladiator). I had no trouble finding a basic Rubicon. Now, I'm having a heck of a time finding a base 2 door wrangler Sport right now though. We'll probably have to factory order that.

 

[MNhunter1]

Nah, see the edit to my post above... try searching Jeep's inventory before blindly agreeing...

Invoice on a base white Rubi w/auto is 50,915. If you want to look at availbale inventory, the multiple variables will greatly influence the respective local savings.

 

[NachoRuby]

Invoice on a base white Rubi w/auto is 50,915. If you want to look at availbale inventory, the multiple variables will greatly influence the respective local savings.

Unless you want to add a color other than white, which for whatever reason, jeep charges for haha

 

[21Moja]

I don't necessarily agree with the winch vs. lockers comments depending on how much time you have.
A rear locker will get you through 90% of obstacles (east coast wheeling) and take no time where a winching operation can last minutes to hours. A winch and a rear locker probably get you to 100% and the front locker is really, again, for the time factor or places where there are no good winch points (desert).
The 4:1 low range is very nice to have. necessary for any serious wheeling IMHO.

OP is probably more west coast/desert oriented so take this with a grain.

I would NOT put lockers into the vehicle until you have owned it for awhile and decide if 33s is your final tire size. It would suck to open the axels to turn around and open again down the road. The winch will get you most of the way right now, you can decide from there on the rest.

 

[MaysvilleStig]

I think you have a pretty solid idea. I just went with the Rubicon because I didn't want yet another vehicle that I had to modify a bunch to get where I wanted. I just bought the one that already had the options I wanted. I use my lockers a lot, just to prevent needing them to "get me out" of a situation, I'd rather turn them on and have that extra control from the jump. I also wheel alone so I'm extra careful. Are they required? Nope! I've seen several open diff jeeps follow me just fine, though its often a little more dramatic for them.

 

[sharpsicle]

I would NOT put lockers into the vehicle until you have owned it for awhile and decide if 33s is your final tire size. It would suck to open the axels to turn around and open again down the road. The winch will get you most of the way right now, you can decide from there on the rest.

This is a fantastic way to put it. Know what you want to start with now, and when you want to fill in gaps later, fill them in. The Sport S is the perfect canvas for you to start with. There are only a few things you can't add later yourself, the main one coming to mind being the Advanced Safety Group. Everything else, though, can be done, and without losing out on any kind of cost difference.

Many people go with the Rubicon because it has the disconnect and lockers built-in, but then they never use them, so then why did you pay for them? Usually it's just to say they have them. Only an extremely small fraction of Rubi owners actually use the Rubi stuff.

 

[HooliganActual]

Wow,

What a great forum with quick responses. My travels will include desert, high Sierra's and Pacific Northwest. The reason for the big delta between the Ruby and the sport is because if I went Ruby I selected a lot of other option for trails. Maybe I should just find the most basic Ruby and look at that.

What options do you think I should select on a Ruby if I go that route? Should I look at any options? What do you think are must haves. I will be on fairly rougher trails sometimes, but, I will not actively seek out rock crawling or putting the Jeep to the test on purpose.

Geoff

Here's the thing...I am biased because I love the Rubicon package. Going the route of the Max Tow is a great option and you can build it up to be a faux Rubicon easily enough (everything that makes the Rubi a Rubi could be added to the Max Tow after the fact given time and money). HOWEVER...

The main differentiators between the Rubi and the other packages are the 4:1 transfer case, the electronic swaybar and the lockers (there's some other things but let's not all quibble over this stuff as it isn't my point). Both the Max Tow and Rubicon are extremely capable off the lot, but you will have to do less to the Rubi to get where it sounds like you want to be with the vehicle. You can head right off into the mountains from the dealer's lot and start figuring out what upgrades you REALLY want to do. I drove my 2016 JKUR for 2 years before I even put a lift in it but by then I knew what I "needed'.

I grew up wheeling around your neck of the woods in a CJ7 that didn't have any of the features that a modern Rubi has; didn't even have a winch. If you can afford the Rubi, get it as it will be a great platform to build from and you won't have to do as much to it. As an example, the Rubi will already have a steel bumper that you can add a winch mount plate and winch to and the existing lift with hi-line front fenders will allow you to put your 33's on right away.

If you get the Rubi, the one option I think is really worthwhile is the Auxiliary switch group. So glad I have it! I wish mine had come with the outlet in the bed. I've since added a USB charge station back there but that would have been a nice option to start with.

 

[Mezak]

I bought a Sport max tow “not S max tow” October 2019 for $36k out the door with my jobs discount. I got rubicon front shocks/springs for $100 off the forum. 7inch screen for $400, rubicon rock rails for $100..I mainly only overland have no regrets not getting a rubicon at all.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

Here's the thing...I am biased because I love the Rubicon package. Going the route of the Max Tow is a great option and you can build it up to be a faux Rubicon easily enough (everything that makes the Rubi a Rubi could be added to the Max Tow after the fact given time and money). HOWEVER...

The main differentiators between the Rubi and the other packages are the 4:1 transfer case, the electronic swaybar and the lockers (there's some other things but let's not all quibble over this stuff as it isn't my point). Both the Max Tow and Rubicon are extremely capable off the lot, but you will have to do less to the Rubi to get where it sounds like you want to be with the vehicle. You can head right off into the mountains from the dealer's lot and start figuring out what upgrades you REALLY want to do. I drove my 2016 JKUR for 2 years before I even put a lift in it but by then I knew what I "needed'.

I grew up wheeling around your neck of the woods in a CJ7 that didn't have any of the features that a modern Rubi has; didn't even have a winch. If you can afford the Rubi, get it as it will be a great platform to build from and you won't have to do as much to it. As an example, the Rubi will already have a steel bumper that you can add a winch mount plate and winch to and the existing lift with hi-line front fenders will allow you to put your 33's on right away.

If you get the Rubi, the one option I think is really worthwhile is the Auxiliary switch group. So glad I have it! I wish mine had come with the outlet in the bed. I've since added a USB charge station back there but that would have been a nice option to start with.

Best advice thus far... OP knows what equipment he wants to start with, just needs to improve from there...

 

[onewhippedpuppy]

I think if you really sat down and did an honest accounting of your chosen build of a max tow, plus adding lockers/lift/disconnects, plus labor, you’d probably be knocking on the door of base Rubicon money. So if you can get the fully integrated OEM solution that gives you want you need right off of the lot with a full warranty and better resale value - why wouldn’t you? You sound like one of the rare buyers here that can actually justify needing the Rubicon capability, to me it sounds like a no-brainer.

 

[bleda2002]

Wow,

What a great forum with quick responses. My travels will include desert, high Sierra's and Pacific Northwest. The reason for the big delta between the Ruby and the sport is because if I went Ruby I selected a lot of other option for trails. Maybe I should just find the most basic Ruby and look at that.

What options do you think I should select on a Ruby if I go that route? Should I look at any options? What do you think are must haves. I will be on fairly rougher trails sometimes, but, I will not actively seek out rock crawling or putting the Jeep to the test on purpose.

Geoff

I mean if you are going to compare a loaded rubicon to a base max tow thats not really a fair comparison. A base rubi for 6K more will have a front locker (1500-2K bucks or more for just the parts and install in the front), swaybar disconnect (couple hundred bucks), steel rear bumper, better creature comforts (2-3K worth of options), 33's stock (another 4-800 bucks to swap as takes offs), better shocks and springs for off roading (2-300 bucks for takes offs assuming driveway install), and increased resale value as well as factory warranty on all those parts.

 

[hjdca]

Hey Everyone,

This is my first post. I posted this on another website before I found this site which specializes in Gladiators. I would really apricate your input.

I am trying to save money on a Gladiator purchase so I can properly outfit the Jeep for Overlanding/Camping.

I am thinking about buying a Gladiator Sport with the Max Tow Package in lieu of the Rubicon because you get the most heavy duty Dana 44 axles front and back and 4.10 gears. This saves about 16K over the Rubicon

If I add front and back air lockers, a manual sway bar disconnect, 33” KO 2 tires and steel front bumper ready for a winch I believe it will cost about $7,000. So, I am ahead about $9K and can use the rest of the funds to outfit this vehicle with other overlanding equipment.

Does this make sense to you? Am I missing something? Is the Sport with Max Tow Package suspension system going to be a problem off roading?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks,

Geoff

The main drawback with this plan is that you cannot get the 4:1 transfer case later. So, if you are going to do Jeep Badge of Honor trails with Rocks, you will miss the 4:1 transfer case.
Since, you are already planning to add Lockers later, for me, since I am doing Badge of Honor trails, I would buy the Rubicon. Also, the auto disconnect sway bar is beyond convenient on the Rubicon....
If you are just going to do normal trails and Desert, then, you will be satisfied with the Max tow Transfer case.
Good Luck on your decison.
In the end, it depends the type of trails you plan on doing.

 

[MPMB]

Back in 2020 when I bought my O'land, there were just as many base rubis on the lot as fully equipped. I wanted more options, and Gat'r... plus I had other plans for driveline, so I went with the O'land.

EDIT: Just did an inventory search 300 miles out from 35898... there are 20+ base 2022 Rubicons, all $55.5k and under...

That must really depend on where you live. I didn't factory order, and mine is pretty base. I have hard top, metal front bumper, spray in liner. And nothing else. It was just sitting on the lot. And they have two more similarly equipped sitting on the same lot right now, one even with a soft top (rare around here for any trim of wrangler or gladiator). I had no trouble finding a basic Rubicon. Now, I'm having a heck of a time finding a base 2 door wrangler Sport right now though. We'll probably have to factory order that.

I did a search 300 miles from my location (WA area). There are zero base Rubicons at $49k. They all have some options added. The lowest price is $53.7k.

I changed zip code to 10036 (east coast somewhere) and there is one at the lowest price $49.6k. The next is $51k.

So I stand by my statement that it's rare to find a base Rubicon without ordering it.

 

[NachoRuby]

I did a search 300 miles from my location (WA area). There are zero base Rubicons at $49k. They all have some options added. The lowest price is $53.7k.

I changed zip code to 10036 (east coast somewhere) and there is one at the lowest price $49.6k. The next is $51k.

So I stand by my statement that it's rare to find a base Rubicon without ordering it.

That's largely because 49600 is the manual transmission. The base for an automatic is 51600. There are only a few weirdos like me looking for a stick shift. But I think it's pretty hard to find any gladiator completely base with no options at all, without ordering, Rubicon or not. But it's not very hard to find one with minimal options. The price has gone up since I bought my '21, but my goal was to stay under $50k. That wasn't really that hard then. I'd probably have to up that to $53000 if I were to buy now.

They don't start getting super expensive until you start adding leather and safety packages and the like. Also, base price doesn't include the destination fee, which most dealers will, at about $1600.

I'm not justifying it one way or the other, but a lot of folks seem to think everyone is paying $55000-70000 on a Rubicon.

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