Overland edition payload

[ShadowsPapa]

And this is number 735 on the payload topic and "can I change it with different parts". LOL

Sorry, it's been this way since before I was even licensed to drive in the 70s

It is what it is.
No, you can not change it.
That number is your number.

Payload numbers in books, charts and the internet are the MAXIMUM that model will have, not what you will end up with.

It has nothing to do with being a 4x4.
You could have bought a 2 wheel drive truck, or even SUV, and the payload will be on the sticker in the door jamb.
Even my wife's Grand Cherokee has a payload rating and tow rating. Any truck you buy will have such rating and it will vary.

So - the answer is really basic - payloads vary in any vehicle, trim level, options, and so on. And you can't change that number.

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[LostWoods]

And this is number 735 on the payload topic and "can I change it with different parts". LOL

Sorry, it's been this way since before I was even licensed to drive in the 70s

It is what it is.
No, you can not change it.
That number is your number.

Payload numbers in books, charts and the internet are the MAXIMUM that model will have, not what you will end up with.

It has nothing to do with being a 4x4.
You could have bought a 2 wheel drive truck, or even SUV, and the payload will be on the sticker in the door jamb.
Even my wife's Grand Cherokee has a payload rating and tow rating. Any truck you buy will have such rating and it will vary.

So - the answer is really basic - payloads vary in any vehicle, trim level, options, and so on. And you can't change that number.

I'll be that pedantic asshole lol... you can change your payload, you can't change your GVWR on the door. If you swap in lighter parts you will functionally add to your available payload but mods tend to not work that direction. As hard as you try you'll be lucky to get 100# out of it and that's only if you can live without a rear seat among other things.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Win on a technicality.

Remove rear seat, panels, slush mats, bumpers.......

Otoh, put on any accessories and you lose.

EDIT: still with fever, exhaustion, didn't finish thought - thanks to LostWoods for the reminder - and the tempering even his fact with - ya ain't gonna gain much by stripping the truck.

Example - pull off the factory tonneau cover (IF you have that option) and maybe gain back a whopping 15-20 pounds, and if that 20 pounds is your concern, you bought the wrong truck......

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Since this is originally about Overland and payload, and I've had an Overland for a good 30 months, have pushed it hard (one time a bit too hard, honestly) and hauled and towed with it, I'll add my personal experience with the Overland line of Gladiators............

I've had mine for at least 30 months. If it ever happens, and it's not looking likely now with the delays and all with new trucks, I supposedly have another on order - yeah, another Overland.
I've had over 2 years to think about it - would I do it again? Would it be Overland again? Yes.
Yes, the Overland is limited, but I had to weigh my honest needs vs a lot of other factors. What was most important, how do I use the truck, and when I do tow or haul "stuff" - how often is it, how far and how much.
I came back to Overland. I know it, I like it, it does the job for me.
If I had to haul more than the ratings on this truck, I have other options - my car hauler will haul over 6,000 pounds of stuff so if I needed 2 ton of landscaping block, I could put it on my car hauler. Besides, the trailer is lower than the bed of the truck, easier to load and unload.
If I needed to haul 1500-2,000 pounds of stuff, I'd hook up my little utility trailer. I'd load the truck with what it's rated to handle for payload (minus gear in the truck, tongue weight and so on) and put the rest in the utility trailer.
And if I needed to tow more - I'd be risking my very life and future on this planet, but my wife's Grand Cherokee is rated 6,200 pounds towing capacity.
But I don't need to tow that much (my cars each weigh about 3,300 pounds, the trailer is 1600 pound, so I'm at close to 5,000 pounds, that's 1,000 under rated towing.

Back to payload - my personal experience and years owning this truck makes me say this - a warning - don't over-load the Overland.
It's fine with the payload rating on the door jamb - loaded properly with 1025 pounds of concrete landscaping block, it was just right, but I wanted to not make any emergency or stupid moves, don't take corners stupid fast, take it easy on RR tracks and so on.
Why? Stability. The narrow axles do matter.

One pic below is my Overland with 1025 pounds of block in the back. I loaded things so the weight was on and just ahead of the rear axle as much as possible. It did fine, but I could tell why it has the rating it does, and it's not just about springs, shocks and what the axles will handle without busting. They also have to take braking, steering and maneuverability into account.
IF you have that much weight, it's raising the center of gravity of that truck.

The same week I hauled that thousand pounds of block in the back, I ended up, basically by accident, totally UNplanned, hauled waaaay more than these are meant to haul - I had a whole lot more than these are rated for - even more than the Max Tow is likely rated for.
Hey, it was on sale. I planned on buying the exact amount of block I needed, it was on sale, a close-out deal. I went in for something like 48 blocks, that would have been well under payload.
I got there, the yard guy brought the pallet of block around on a forklift and helped count out the blocks - then he said - you know, usually on a close-out if you buy the rest they give it to you dirt cheap. I went in, talked to the manager, he said the guy was right, their inventory showed something like another 50 block. That would put me over but not by too much. So I went and paid and basically "bought all the rest" for 15 bucks, 48 plus the 50 their inventory said remained.
I got back out and the yard helper had already loaded another 50 and looked at the pallet, looked at me and said- are you sure?
I have max tow springs and Rubicon fox shocks under my truck - all that did was lessen the amount of sag in the back. That's it. I could still tell I had a lot of weight up where it mattered if I had to make the truck corner or lean hard or try to steer it where there might be sand on the road.

Anyway, it's not just what the axles will take without snapping, it's not just "put better springs under it", it's a truck made up of a whole lot of parts that all have to work together to keep it upright, and manageable in case you need to avoid disaster if someone cuts you off, jumps a red light, deer bounces out to take a close look at your truck, and lots of other possibilities.
The overland is a great truck - but if you need a TRUCK that will haul 3/4 of a ton in the back, the Overland isn't necessarily your truck. Or, go to Fleet Farm and get a cheap utility trailer to haul the extra 500 pounds.

 

[JET_83]

Not deceiving, just wildly variable. Every truck will have a slightly different curb weight based on its options so it's impossible to provide a payload without knowing the exact build.

IMO they should have a reference to this on the window sticker and a dealer should be able to tell you what your payload will be. They don't weigh each truck to stamp them, it's all calculated off the build sheet so Jeep knows what it will be even before you order.

I haven’t configured my truck with anything but a bedliner so my payload should still be 1200lbs but I bet it’s not when I get it, so yeah that number is deceiving

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I haven’t configured my truck with anything but a bedliner so my payload should still be 1200lbs but I bet it’s not when I get it, so yeah that number is deceiving

No, it's not deceiving, it's the maximum for the base level of that trim.
People appear to be new to the world of trucks and cars and ratings and charts and marketing and that fine print at the bottom of TV commercials where it says "on properly equipped..................." or "when equipped as shown" or other disclaimers.

You'll get the chart payload only if you add nothing at all, it's a plane-jane truck, fabric seats, no power anything, perhaps the soft top if that's what the base model comes with standard. It's for a truck where you don't check any boxes at all and accept it in white, zero packages at all, not even the popular option packages - zip, no package, bare-bones everything.

Key word - options........ floor mats, bed liner, trail rails, optional lighting, tonneau cover, roof options, handles, if a single box is checked anywhere, any box, then it likely won't hit that chart number. Even checking the towing package will change things up.

I don't see where that's deceiving since no promises were made, and it's been that way since before I was driving.

And if the difference between a max possible number of 1150 and the reality of 1025 is a problem, it's the wrong truck.

 

[JET_83]

No, it's not deceiving, it's the maximum for the base level of that trim.
People appear to be new to the world of trucks and cars and ratings and charts and marketing and that fine print at the bottom of TV commercials where it says "on properly equipped..................." or "when equipped as shown" or other disclaimers.

You'll get the chart payload only if you add nothing at all, it's a plane-jane truck, fabric seats, no power anything, perhaps the soft top if that's what the base model comes with standard. It's for a truck where you don't check any boxes at all and accept it in white, zero packages at all, not even the popular option packages - zip, no package, bare-bones everything.

Key word - options........ floor mats, bed liner, trail rails, optional lighting, tonneau cover, roof options, handles, if a single box is checked anywhere, any box, then it likely won't hit that chart number. Even checking the towing package will change things up.

I don't see where that's deceiving since no promises were made, and it's been that way since before I was driving.

And if the difference between a max possible number of 1150 and the reality of 1025 is a problem, it's the wrong truck.

That’s not mentioned anywhere in the fine print about payload

 

[JET_83]

No, it's not deceiving, it's the maximum for the base level of that trim.
People appear to be new to the world of trucks and cars and ratings and charts and marketing and that fine print at the bottom of TV commercials where it says "on properly equipped..................." or "when equipped as shown" or other disclaimers.

You'll get the chart payload only if you add nothing at all, it's a plane-jane truck, fabric seats, no power anything, perhaps the soft top if that's what the base model comes with standard. It's for a truck where you don't check any boxes at all and accept it in white, zero packages at all, not even the popular option packages - zip, no package, bare-bones everything.

Key word - options........ floor mats, bed liner, trail rails, optional lighting, tonneau cover, roof options, handles, if a single box is checked anywhere, any box, then it likely won't hit that chart number. Even checking the towing package will change things up.

I don't see where that's deceiving since no promises were made, and it's been that way since before I was driving.

And if the difference between a max possible number of 1150 and the reality of 1025 is a problem, it's the wrong truck.

So if all I have is the bedliner I should have 1200lbs of payload

 

[JET_83]

No, it's not deceiving, it's the maximum for the base level of that trim.
People appear to be new to the world of trucks and cars and ratings and charts and marketing and that fine print at the bottom of TV commercials where it says "on properly equipped..................." or "when equipped as shown" or other disclaimers.

You'll get the chart payload only if you add nothing at all, it's a plane-jane truck, fabric seats, no power anything, perhaps the soft top if that's what the base model comes with standard. It's for a truck where you don't check any boxes at all and accept it in white, zero packages at all, not even the popular option packages - zip, no package, bare-bones everything.

Key word - options........ floor mats, bed liner, trail rails, optional lighting, tonneau cover, roof options, handles, if a single box is checked anywhere, any box, then it likely won't hit that chart number. Even checking the towing package will change things up.

I don't see where that's deceiving since no promises were made, and it's been that way since before I was driving.

And if the difference between a max possible number of 1150 and the reality of 1025 is a problem, it's the wrong truck.

How heavy is a bedliner? How could that affect the payload by anything by minimal

 

[Slojo]

ya'll are deep in the weeds...

 

[Gvsukids]

The narrow axles do matter.

Should've gotten the Max Tow. ?

So if all I have is the bedliner I should have 1200lbs of payload

Not if you buy an Overland.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Should've gotten the Max Tow. ?

Naw. How often do I need to haul over 1,000 pounds?
But for those questioning the payload of these - they're looking a the wrong truck.
Mine tows and hauls fine. And when not hauling or towing, gets good mpg and has a nice ride.
Pick what's most important, right?

 

[it_trailblzr]

Since this is originally about Overland and payload, and I've had an Overland for a good 30 months, have pushed it hard (one time a bit too hard, honestly) and hauled and towed with it, I'll add my personal experience with the Overland line of Gladiators............

I've had mine for at least 30 months. If it ever happens, and it's not looking likely now with the delays and all with new trucks, I supposedly have another on order - yeah, another Overland.
I've had over 2 years to think about it - would I do it again? Would it be Overland again? Yes.
Yes, the Overland is limited, but I had to weigh my honest needs vs a lot of other factors. What was most important, how do I use the truck, and when I do tow or haul "stuff" - how often is it, how far and how much.
I came back to Overland. I know it, I like it, it does the job for me.
If I had to haul more than the ratings on this truck, I have other options - my car hauler will haul over 6,000 pounds of stuff so if I needed 2 ton of landscaping block, I could put it on my car hauler. Besides, the trailer is lower than the bed of the truck, easier to load and unload.
If I needed to haul 1500-2,000 pounds of stuff, I'd hook up my little utility trailer. I'd load the truck with what it's rated to handle for payload (minus gear in the truck, tongue weight and so on) and put the rest in the utility trailer.
And if I needed to tow more - I'd be risking my very life and future on this planet, but my wife's Grand Cherokee is rated 6,200 pounds towing capacity.
But I don't need to tow that much (my cars each weigh about 3,300 pounds, the trailer is 1600 pound, so I'm at close to 5,000 pounds, that's 1,000 under rated towing.

Back to payload - my personal experience and years owning this truck makes me say this - a warning - don't over-load the Overland.
It's fine with the payload rating on the door jamb - loaded properly with 1025 pounds of concrete landscaping block, it was just right, but I wanted to not make any emergency or stupid moves, don't take corners stupid fast, take it easy on RR tracks and so on.
Why? Stability. The narrow axles do matter.

One pic below is my Overland with 1025 pounds of block in the back. I loaded things so the weight was on and just ahead of the rear axle as much as possible. It did fine, but I could tell why it has the rating it does, and it's not just about springs, shocks and what the axles will handle without busting. They also have to take braking, steering and maneuverability into account.
IF you have that much weight, it's raising the center of gravity of that truck.

The same week I hauled that thousand pounds of block in the back, I ended up, basically by accident, totally UNplanned, hauled waaaay more than these are meant to haul - I had a whole lot more than these are rated for - even more than the Max Tow is likely rated for.
Hey, it was on sale. I planned on buying the exact amount of block I needed, it was on sale, a close-out deal. I went in for something like 48 blocks, that would have been well under payload.
I got there, the yard guy brought the pallet of block around on a forklift and helped count out the blocks - then he said - you know, usually on a close-out if you buy the rest they give it to you dirt cheap. I went in, talked to the manager, he said the guy was right, their inventory showed something like another 50 block. That would put me over but not by too much. So I went and paid and basically "bought all the rest" for 15 bucks, 48 plus the 50 their inventory said remained.
I got back out and the yard helper had already loaded another 50 and looked at the pallet, looked at me and said- are you sure?
I have max tow springs and Rubicon fox shocks under my truck - all that did was lessen the amount of sag in the back. That's it. I could still tell I had a lot of weight up where it mattered if I had to make the truck corner or lean hard or try to steer it where there might be sand on the road.

Anyway, it's not just what the axles will take without snapping, it's not just "put better springs under it", it's a truck made up of a whole lot of parts that all have to work together to keep it upright, and manageable in case you need to avoid disaster if someone cuts you off, jumps a red light, deer bounces out to take a close look at your truck, and lots of other possibilities.
The overland is a great truck - but if you need a TRUCK that will haul 3/4 of a ton in the back, the Overland isn't necessarily your truck. Or, go to Fleet Farm and get a cheap utility trailer to haul the extra 500 pounds.

Always like it when you interject truth sir!

 

[Komato]

Since this is originally about Overland and payload, and I've had an Overland for a good 30 months, have pushed it hard (one time a bit too hard, honestly) and hauled and towed with it, I'll add my personal experience with the Overland line of Gladiators............

I've had mine for at least 30 months. If it ever happens, and it's not looking likely now with the delays and all with new trucks, I supposedly have another on order - yeah, another Overland.
I've had over 2 years to think about it - would I do it again? Would it be Overland again? Yes.
Yes, the Overland is limited, but I had to weigh my honest needs vs a lot of other factors. What was most important, how do I use the truck, and when I do tow or haul "stuff" - how often is it, how far and how much.
I came back to Overland. I know it, I like it, it does the job for me.
If I had to haul more than the ratings on this truck, I have other options - my car hauler will haul over 6,000 pounds of stuff so if I needed 2 ton of landscaping block, I could put it on my car hauler. Besides, the trailer is lower than the bed of the truck, easier to load and unload.
If I needed to haul 1500-2,000 pounds of stuff, I'd hook up my little utility trailer. I'd load the truck with what it's rated to handle for payload (minus gear in the truck, tongue weight and so on) and put the rest in the utility trailer.
And if I needed to tow more - I'd be risking my very life and future on this planet, but my wife's Grand Cherokee is rated 6,200 pounds towing capacity.
But I don't need to tow that much (my cars each weigh about 3,300 pounds, the trailer is 1600 pound, so I'm at close to 5,000 pounds, that's 1,000 under rated towing.

Back to payload - my personal experience and years owning this truck makes me say this - a warning - don't over-load the Overland.
It's fine with the payload rating on the door jamb - loaded properly with 1025 pounds of concrete landscaping block, it was just right, but I wanted to not make any emergency or stupid moves, don't take corners stupid fast, take it easy on RR tracks and so on.
Why? Stability. The narrow axles do matter.

One pic below is my Overland with 1025 pounds of block in the back. I loaded things so the weight was on and just ahead of the rear axle as much as possible. It did fine, but I could tell why it has the rating it does, and it's not just about springs, shocks and what the axles will handle without busting. They also have to take braking, steering and maneuverability into account.
IF you have that much weight, it's raising the center of gravity of that truck.

The same week I hauled that thousand pounds of block in the back, I ended up, basically by accident, totally UNplanned, hauled waaaay more than these are meant to haul - I had a whole lot more than these are rated for - even more than the Max Tow is likely rated for.
Hey, it was on sale. I planned on buying the exact amount of block I needed, it was on sale, a close-out deal. I went in for something like 48 blocks, that would have been well under payload.
I got there, the yard guy brought the pallet of block around on a forklift and helped count out the blocks - then he said - you know, usually on a close-out if you buy the rest they give it to you dirt cheap. I went in, talked to the manager, he said the guy was right, their inventory showed something like another 50 block. That would put me over but not by too much. So I went and paid and basically "bought all the rest" for 15 bucks, 48 plus the 50 their inventory said remained.
I got back out and the yard helper had already loaded another 50 and looked at the pallet, looked at me and said- are you sure?
I have max tow springs and Rubicon fox shocks under my truck - all that did was lessen the amount of sag in the back. That's it. I could still tell I had a lot of weight up where it mattered if I had to make the truck corner or lean hard or try to steer it where there might be sand on the road.

Anyway, it's not just what the axles will take without snapping, it's not just "put better springs under it", it's a truck made up of a whole lot of parts that all have to work together to keep it upright, and manageable in case you need to avoid disaster if someone cuts you off, jumps a red light, deer bounces out to take a close look at your truck, and lots of other possibilities.
The overland is a great truck - but if you need a TRUCK that will haul 3/4 of a ton in the back, the Overland isn't necessarily your truck. Or, go to Fleet Farm and get a cheap utility trailer to haul the extra 500 pounds.

I get the way Payload is figured and I’m not interested in loading the bed up with a half ton of anything. I’m well under the maximum towing capacity. My boat is 4880 pounds fully loaded (CAT scaled) and would like to be able to haul it and my fishing partner 62 miles to the lake and back on the weekends and be able to stop and get a sammich on the way home without fear of going over my legal payload capacity LOL
If the truck comes in at say 1000 pounds of payload, tongue weight= roughly 490 pounds (haven‘t weighed it for an exact figure) plus my weight, 270 pounds , fishing buddy 250 pound ball park would put me over the 1000 payload capacity by 10 pounds. That means no sammich and a coke on the way home LOL
This is the reason I went to talk to the dealer before ordering anything. The extra couple hundred pounds for me would be a game changer. I don’t think it’s to much to ask from the dealer to be able to calculate the payload based off the options I chose and expect that the number they told me to be accurate, I mean, isn’t that info they should have or be able to come up with?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I realize your one of the guys that knows a shit ton more than a lot of us but there’s no reason to be so condescending.
I thought these kinds of forums exist for people to ask questions from p



I get the way Payload is figured and I’m not interested in loading the bed up with a half ton of anything. I’m well under the maximum towing capacity. My boat is 4880 pounds fully loaded (CAT scaled) and would like to be able to haul it and my fishing partner 62 miles to the lake and back on the weekends and be able to stop and get a sammich on the way home without fear of going over my legal payload capacity LOL
If the truck comes in at say 1000 pounds of payload, tongue weight= roughly 490 pounds (haven‘t weighed it for an exact figure) plus my weight, 270 pounds , fishing buddy 250 pound ball park would put me over the 1000 payload capacity by 10 pounds. That means no sammich and a coke on the way home LOL
This is the reason I went to talk to the dealer before ordering anything. The extra couple hundred pounds for me would be a game changer. I don’t think it’s to much to ask from the dealer to be able to calculate the payload based off the options I chose and expect that the number they told me to be accurate, I mean, isn’t that info they should have or be able to come up with?

Dealer isn't going to have that information unless they find a comparable truck, same or similar options and check the numbers on it. It's a combination of options, not that each option is worth xx pounds.

If I was towing and hauling fishing gear and with me and the stuff, tongue weight and all, I was within a few pounds I'd not get excited about it. Hundreds over, I'd think again, but not for pocket change.

The dealer won't be of any real help here, unfortunately.

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