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P00AF less than 5 miles into first tow

biodiesel

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I would get the turbo replaced while warranty will cover it.
I'm with you 100%; however, I think the issue in this case is that @Idlethunder deleted his truck. Therefore, he believes the dealer (or Mopar) will not approve the warranty work.
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Idlethunder

Idlethunder

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How heavy is your trailer when loaded? Do you know the loaded tongue weight?
It is a new trailer and we haven’t loaded it. All I have now are the current dry weight of 2,800 and tongue is 300.
I'm with you 100%; however, I think the issue in this case is that @Idlethunder deleted his truck. Therefore, he believes the dealer (or Mopar) will not approve the warranty work.
I’m not sure it would be denied but it is a risk. I saved everything and can go back to stock but it is a lot of work. If they do warranty a replacement turbo there’s also the possibility the dealer would update the stock ECU. If they did that, I’d also be out the cost of the delete tunes.
 

JTdiRtyD

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I’m not sure it would be denied but it is a risk. I saved everything and can go back to stock but it is a lot of work. If they do warranty a replacement turbo there’s also the possibility the dealer would update the stock ECU. If they did that, I’d also be out the cost of the delete tunes.
I'd talk off the record to a service writer and shop manager. Some are cool and will omit anything about modifications and if they know you don't want an ECU update they wont do it. Some wont touch it if its deleted.
 

Cadguy

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I have been doing extensive work on mine. EGR's removed, new intake manifold, cleaned the ports with dry ice blasting, etc. etc., and do not see why you would have to do a "cab off" for the turbo.
Yes it's hard to get to, but looks like plenty of room to get the turbo off. From what I can tell, the RAM trucks you cannot get to...
I also have a diesel high roof Promaster van, and the turbo won't physically fit between the firewall and the back of the engine, but is sits further back, so you just have to loosen a motor mount and jack the engine slightly on it.
I think the cab off is a way to charge much higher prices, just my opinion, of course.
 

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Have you guys that are having the the POOAF issue, do you still have all your insulation and engine cover installed?

I would suggest removing the sound insulation to help reduce heat soak.
 

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JTdiRtyD

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Have you guys that are having the the POOAF issue, do you still have all your insulation and engine cover installed?

I would suggest removing the sound insulation to help reduce heat soak.
It's more an issue with high EGTs heat soaking the module, as the module is attached to the turbo, not so much ambient engine bay temps. This is why flatlanders typically don't see the issue as EGTs don't stay high enough long enough.

But in regards to removing insulation and such, it's been discussed and tested when trying to keep engine and oil temps down but hasn't shown any significant or consistent impact.
 

SKJeep

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For those of us without your water/methanol injection, what do you recommend our max EGT be?
I try to keep it under 1100 on a moderate incline. If you have the ability to watch both your EGT and Engine oil temp you will see how quickly the oil temp is impacted the EGT.
Snow performance stage 2 kit, you need afe charge pipes for the install, some sort of custom mount for a tank, I run a 2.5 gallon in the bed currently and looking for a larger one. I use about 2 gallons of washer fluid (which is 33-35% methanol) per tank full Using a 1 gallon per hour nozzle. no increase in mileage
I have the AFE charge pipes. The work perfect as the have the threaded bungs for the pressure sensor for the boost and the injection nozzle. Will start a new thread just for what I am running. There is very little on line for the water/meth injection on any of the Gen3 ecodiesels. I am running a 50/50 mix of distilled water and methanol. Post more later today or tomorrow on it.

Jeep Gladiator P00AF less than 5 miles into first tow IMG_1462


Jeep Gladiator P00AF less than 5 miles into first tow IMG_1463
 

rubicon4wheeler

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Have you guys that are having the the POOAF issue, do you still have all your insulation and engine cover installed?

I would suggest removing the sound insulation to help reduce heat soak.
The first thing I did when I bought my Jeep was remove the engine cover and all that NVH foam that just traps heat.
 

biodiesel

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It shouldn't be anywhere close to $12,000. The turbo itself is only $1,200. I think the book time is something like 8 hours. I'm not sure what Mopar pays per hour for warranty work, but even at $250 per hours x 8 hours = $2,000 labor. The cost outside of warranty should be closer to $3,500.
I just sent a text to a friend of mine who is a Mopar diesel tech at a Ram dealership. He said the book time for the Ram is 5.8 hours. He doesn't work on Jeeps, so he doesn't know what the book time is on them.
 

RhinoJT

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The actuator is the issue, but the actuator isn't sold separate. This is why Stellantis replaces the entire turbo.



Yes, 100% of the people who've replaced the defective turbo haven't had any more issues.
Doesn’t look like it has worked for everyone. As well, I have seen 2 reports in JLs of it still coming back after replacement.

Jeep Gladiator P00AF less than 5 miles into first tow IMG_1271
 

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Heres my .02c.

I would get the turbo replaced while warranty will cover it. Replacing the turbo is a cab off procedure, and when my buddy just got it done it was a $12k bill that was fully covered by warranty.

The worm gears in the actuator are plastic of some sort. I'm not sure exactly whats happening that causes the code, but its heat related. If they are getting out of wack from heat and thats what causes the code, then not replacing the turbo could result in a hefty bill later on down the road.

I would also not wait, because the code will be cleared after X amount of miles and sleep cycles. I'm currently trying to recreate conditions to pop the code again because mine were cleared before I was able to get to the dealership, and unfortunately theres no place close to me where I can easily recreate the conditions.
If you have anything to tow, I’ve found that I only ever get the code after driving for 1.5+ hours while towing and then stop for fuel, food, etc. I only ever get the code after I start back on the highway after stopping briefly and shutting the jeep off for 5-15 min. It’s like while sitting it heat soaks and that’s the trigger point.
 

biodiesel

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Doesn’t look like it has worked for everyone. As well, I have seen 2 reports in JLs of it still coming back after replacement.
That's interesting. I've been keeping data on the Ram forum (see below). So far, the turbo swap under warranty has taken care of the problem 100% of the time. Most people who have reported the failure were not forum members, but they had found the thread I had started in an internet search and came to the forum to report. Most of them didn't know they had the faulty actuator until they towed for the first time, or they towed in conditions that would trigger the code. But so far, nobody has reported any more issues after the turbo was replaced.

I'm not keeping a list on this forum, but everyone (Gladiator owner) I've encountered hasn't had any more issues once they've replaced the turbo under warranty.

Josh Nolt, 2022 Ram - 20,000 miles
@Mzflorida, 2022 Ram - 20,500 miles
@EC0RAM, 2022 Ram - 33,000 miles
Rob Rusk, 2021 Ram - 34,000 miles
@ruskracing, 2021 Ram - 34,000 miles
@PapaTango, (08/21) 2021 Ram - 38,000 miles
@ecodiesel13, (08/21/21) 2021 Ram - 41,000 miles
@wolfie59, 2021 Ram - 41,000 miles
@Krigger, 2022 Ram - 45,000 miles
@c3k, 2021 Ram - 45,500 miles
@jeeplj8, 2021 Ram - 52,000 miles
@vet18b, 2021 Ram - 53,500 miles
@otinchon, 2022 Ram - 56,068 miles
@Goober8817, 2022 Ram - 66,707 miles
@2020North, (11/19/19) 2020 Ram - 67,000 miles
@Keith Chrisco, 2020 Ram - 88,000 miles
@leseiD, 2021 Ram - 99,000 miles
 

Vtur

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That's interesting. I've been keeping data on the Ram forum (see below). So far, the turbo swap under warranty has taken care of the problem 100% of the time. Most people who have reported the failure were not forum members, but they had found the thread I had started in an internet search and came to the forum to report. Most of them didn't know they had the faulty actuator until they towed for the first time, or they towed in conditions that would trigger the code. But so far, nobody has reported any more issues after the turbo was replaced.

I'm not keeping a list on this forum, but everyone (Gladiator owner) I've encountered hasn't had any more issues once they've replaced the turbo under warranty.

Josh Nolt, 2022 Ram - 20,000 miles
@Mzflorida, 2022 Ram - 20,500 miles
@EC0RAM, 2022 Ram - 33,000 miles
Rob Rusk, 2021 Ram - 34,000 miles
@ruskracing, 2021 Ram - 34,000 miles
@PapaTango, (08/21) 2021 Ram - 38,000 miles
@ecodiesel13, (08/21/21) 2021 Ram - 41,000 miles
@wolfie59, 2021 Ram - 41,000 miles
@Krigger, 2022 Ram - 45,000 miles
@c3k, 2021 Ram - 45,500 miles
@jeeplj8, 2021 Ram - 52,000 miles
@vet18b, 2021 Ram - 53,500 miles
@otinchon, 2022 Ram - 56,068 miles
@Goober8817, 2022 Ram - 66,707 miles
@2020North, (11/19/19) 2020 Ram - 67,000 miles
@Keith Chrisco, 2020 Ram - 88,000 miles
@leseiD, 2021 Ram - 99,000 miles
Dang. At 20k miles, it sure don't discriminate.
 

biodiesel

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Dang. At 20k miles, it sure don't discriminate.
Yeah, most of those guys didn't have any issues until they towed for the first time or at least towed in hilly terrain for the first time. Some of the higher mileage trucks simply didn't do any towing until later on in ownership.

I did my first big towing trip at 300 miles. I was fortunate not to have the faulty actuator. We do a fair amount of towing in mountainous terrain, plus we've been logging a good 6,000 - 8,000 miles per year.
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