Proper way to delete AUX?

[Johndd]

There are soo many videos online of deleting the aux "THIS CAN BE DONE IN 5 MINUTES" etc etc. I want to properly delete the aux and unsure how to go about it.

I can live with ASS as i turn the button off all the time i just dont want the potential of the aux killing my main and it not starting one day because it will always happen at the worst time possible.

Does the aux battery need removed completely? I hear just taking the negative off and taping up and pulling a fuse is fine.

I hear others saying best to put a bigger main in once you delete it "which makes sense to me and my main is the original from 2021".

My point is i just want to properly have the aux deleted without freaking wires taped up everywhere and i dont want to have warning lights on my dash that require a tazer. Is there a proper method to doing this which i understand will TAKE LONGER THEN 5 MINUTES.

One other thing that worries me about leaving the aux in is a potential fire hazard if say water intrusion happens or just corrosion eating at something.

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[DylanM]

From a purely functional view of deleting the Aux battery, pulling fuse 42 to stop PCR operation and disconnecting/isolating the Aux battery negative is all that's needed.

See the attached diagram below for a visual on the layout of the battery/charging system. Short and sweet, the Aux battery positive circuit is what powers all the components attached to N1 in the PDC while N2 through N7 are powered by the main battery. When the PCR contacts are closed, that connects the main battery and auxiliary battery positive circuits together. Pulling fuse 42 disables the PCR so that the contacts never open, thus allowing the main to power N1 when the Aux is disconnected.

Options if you want to remove the auxiliary battery from the vehicle include simply leaving its wiring in place and insulating the positive terminal connector to prevent any possible shorts, or you can remove the Aux's positive cables and instead install a short jumper between N1 and N2 or N1 and N3.

 

[Johndd]

Thank you. You made that Very clear.

If i just did the negative and fuse route, ass still works as expected right? The only down side is more draw on the main battery since it would be feeding the service the aux was doing when ass initiates correct?

The way i have known it from reading is disabling the aux is it doesnt do anything to disable ass but it basically eliminates the aux from tanking the main and only real down side is more draw on the main which will definitely require me topping off more often.

 

[g2020]

Thank you. You made that Very clear.

If i just did the negative and fuse route, ass still works as expected right? The only down side is more draw on the main battery since it would be feeding the service the aux was doing when ass initiates correct?

The way i have known it from reading is disabling the aux is it doesnt do anything to disable ass but it basically eliminates the aux from tanking the main and only real down side is more draw on the main which will definitely require me topping off more often.

In addition to the advice from @DylanM, here's my write-up on aux batt delete. Model years before & after mid-2021 are covered.

1. I also suggest disabling ESS/Autostop to reduce the wear on the main battery that you mentioned
2. The aux battery can be left as-is, but fuse F42 must be pulled and the end of the aux negative cable must be insulated and anchored with a cable tie away from the main negative post
3. If the aux battery is physically removed, I also say to insulate the end of the positive cable (because it's exposed)
4. If you physically remove the aux battery and travel through high water, a good practice is to fish up the aux positive cable and anchor it topside (I don't cover removing the aux positive cables and adding a jumper)
5. My write-up is not original and is not the only way, but it works

 

[Johndd]

In addition to the advice from @DylanM, here's my write-up on aux batt delete. Model years before & after mid-2021 are covered.

1. I also suggest disabling ESS/Autostop to reduce the wear on the main battery that you mentioned
2. The aux battery can be left as-is, but fuse F42 must be pulled and the end of the aux negative cable must be insulated and anchored with a cable tie away from the main negative post
3. If the aux battery is physically removed, I also say to insulate the end of the positive cable (because it's exposed)
4. If you physically remove the aux battery and travel through high water, a good practice is to fish up the aux positive cable and anchor it topside (I don't cover removing the aux positive cables and adding a jumper)
5. My write-up is not original and is not the only way, but it works

Nice write up guide. One thing i'm curious about though is this

1. Attach main neg cable to aux neg connector (10 mm); this cable replaces aux neg cable and is placed on top of IBS (black rectangular plastic box)

Why put the main neg cable on the aux neg connector?

All this also got me looking in to the 2020+ Gas Gladiator Gen 3 Dual Battery System by genisis. i was thinking 800 bucks wasnt bad until i realized it didnt include the batteries.. geeeeeeezussss so 1600 bucks that route..looks like a sweet set up that tenders the batteries properly based on voltage but holy hell.

 

[g2020]

Nice write up guide. One thing i'm curious about though is this


Why put the main neg cable on the aux neg connector?

All this also got me looking in to the 2020+ Gas Gladiator Gen 3 Dual Battery System by genisis. i was thinking 800 bucks wasnt bad until i realized it didnt include the batteries.. geeeeeeezussss so 1600 bucks that route..looks like a sweet set up that tenders the batteries properly based on voltage but holy hell.

I've revised the aux batt delete instructions. Please review the post again. The revision includes steps for resetting the IBS and a link to the full IBS reset instructions in case a simple reset doesn't work on the first try.

I plan to upgrade to an Odyssey Performance H7 (larger, more amps, tends to last longer). I like the Genesis solution, but I don't need it especially given the price.

 

[Johndd]

I've revised the aux batt delete instructions for model years after mid-2021. Please review the entire post again. I also added steps for resetting the IBS and a link to the full IBS reset instructions in case a simple reset doesn't work on the first try.

I plan to upgrade to an Odyssey Performance H7 (larger, more amps, tends to last longer). I like the Genesis solution, but I don't need it especially given the price.

Yea the price is insane. My goal inevitably is making an overland rig but not going so far to break the bank. The one thing ive been thinking about is the clayton overland kit. 7 grand but its the only real lift kit ive seen that does it all correctly and not half way.

Genesis does sound great but im thinking more of maybe stand alone power tbh. But im also debating how far i want to go with this particular jeep. Rumor has it they may be releasing a 35 package for the gladiator with the 4.56 and 4.88 gear options. So weighing my options. Having a willys with 3.73 and the stuff i WANT to do i feel like im creating a rubicon lol.

 

[BourbonRunner]

Earlier this year my aux gave up after I jump started my BMW with it.

I removed fuse 42. I also read the several different ways the system can be bypassed/disabled.

I chose to remove the aux battery, then fish the positive cable from it up and connect it to the positive post on the main battery. I taped up the negative lead that was formerly on the aux negative post.

Not long thereafter I got a screaming hot deal on an Odyssey H7 and threw that in.

 

[Johndd]

Earlier this year my aux gave up after I jump started my BMW with it.

I removed fuse 42. I also read the several different ways the system can be bypassed/disabled.

I chose to remove the aux battery, then fish the positive cable from it up and connect it to the positive post on the main battery. I taped up the negative lead that was formerly on the aux negative post.

Not long thereafter I got a screaming hot deal on an Odyssey H7 and threw that in.

i'm assusming if you connect the hot from the aux to the main there is no need to do the jumper deal between n1 and n3?

 

[DylanM]

i'm assusming if you connect the hot from the aux to the main there is no need to do the jumper deal between n1 and n3?

The only reason a jumper would need to be installed is if you remove the Aux battery positive cable from the vehicle or for some reason want to leave fuse 42 installed with the Aux deleted. Connecting the Aux cable's positive terminal to the main battery is nothing more than one option you can choose to protect that now unneeded terminal from possibly shorting to ground when the Aux is physically removed from the vehicle.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Looks like you’ve got the delete covered. As far as the Genesis system, it is pricey but for the price it provides great peace of mind. Sure a Jump box will do exactly the same thing, but how many times do some just leave the jump box packed under the back seat all the time and it doesn’t have a charge when needed. With the Genesis it’s set it and forget it. No need to think about if a jump box has been charged or not because the second battery is always charging. I camp and wheel solo a lot so having an extra battery in the system that is probably going to have enough charge on it to start my Jeep when I’m 75 miles into the desert away from the nearest hoo man is safety. I love camping and off roading. I can complete a 10 mile hike in a couple hours if I need to but I sure as heck don’t enjoy it. Hiking for 2-3 days to find someone to jump my truck is something id rather avoid. Like the plague. Or zombies.

 

[Johndd]

Looks like you’ve got the delete covered. As far as the Genesis system, it is pricey but for the price it provides great peace of mind. Sure a Jump box will do exactly the same thing, but how many times do some just leave the jump box packed under the back seat all the time and it doesn’t have a charge when needed. With the Genesis it’s set it and forget it. No need to think about if a jump box has been charged or not because the second battery is always charging. I camp and wheel solo a lot so having an extra battery in the system that is probably going to have enough charge on it to start my Jeep when I’m 75 miles into the desert away from the nearest hoo man is safety. I love camping and off roading. I can complete a 10 mile hike in a couple hours if I need to but I sure as heck don’t enjoy it. Hiking for 2-3 days to find someone to jump my truck is something id rather avoid. Like the plague. Or zombies.

I get that point but it really comes back to responsibility. If you take a dead jumper on a camping trip to begin with, I'd be rather worried about what else i forgot before going

 

[BourbonRunner]

Looks like you’ve got the delete covered. As far as the Genesis system, it is pricey but for the price it provides great peace of mind. Sure a Jump box will do exactly the same thing, but how many times do some just leave the jump box packed under the back seat all the time and it doesn’t have a charge when needed. With the Genesis it’s set it and forget it. No need to think about if a jump box has been charged or not because the second battery is always charging. I camp and wheel solo a lot so having an extra battery in the system that is probably going to have enough charge on it to start my Jeep when I’m 75 miles into the desert away from the nearest hoo man is safety. I love camping and off roading. I can complete a 10 mile hike in a couple hours if I need to but I sure as heck don’t enjoy it. Hiking for 2-3 days to find someone to jump my truck is something id rather avoid. Like the plague. Or zombies.

Thats why there's a market for the Gravity batteries with the built in jump-start feature. But even then, if you're being pursued by the hordes of undead across the desert, it's a better chance you'll get a "FOB NOT IN VEHICLE" warning than a dead battery. Because Murphy.

There was a company years ago who made a universal jump pack that strapped onto your battery but I have no idea if they're even around anymore. From what I remember it was a small battery that wired inline that when your starter went tits up, you could press a button on the device, turn the key and get away from roving bands of zombies, panhandlers and tax collectors in a jiffy.

 

[DanJT]

Earlier this year my aux gave up after I jump started my BMW with it.

I removed fuse 42. I also read the several different ways the system can be bypassed/disabled.

I chose to remove the aux battery, then fish the positive cable from it up and connect it to the positive post on the main battery. I taped up the negative lead that was formerly on the aux negative post.

Not long thereafter I got a screaming hot deal on an Odyssey H7 and threw that in.

I did this also, but I connected the Aux negative cable to the body. Replaced the main battery
(it was going bad) with the larger H7 battery and have had no problems for going on 2 years.

 

[Johndd]

I did this also, but I connected the Aux negative cable to the body. Replaced the main battery
(it was going bad) with the larger H7 battery and have had no problems for going on 2 years.

If the aux negative only runs to the main negative terminal, whats the point of connecting the aux to the body? Unless people do it for an additional ground for peace of mind.

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