Pros and cons for 35s on JTRD

[dcmdon]

Nobody suggested a regear for 35s and 4.10.

This is what I have.
If it was $500, I'd regear. But at $2500 its not worth it to me. The truck does everything I want it to do off road. Regearing would be to improve highway driving.

I'm now about 2000 rpm at 70 mph in 8th.
The truck drops to 7th at the slightest hill.

In 7th, at 70, I'm at roughly 2450. Plenty of grunt for most hills but a bit more engine noise.

I'm thinking 2300 rpm is perfect for 8th.

A regear to 4.86 would give me (2300 x (4.86/4.10) =2370) 2370 RPM. Probably perfect or a low (gearing) or high (rpm) which is better than the other way.

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[dcmdon]

If you're not stalking me i wonder how you ended up on my build thread.

We're on a forum where people share opinions all the time, and for some particular reason you've taken particular offense to mine. Who knew thinker spacers are an unnecessary component that adds complexity with a non-zero failure rate and that 35s are too tall for 3.73s based on personal experience was enough to set someone off with a deluge of personal attacks.

Do you lose your shit on everyone who personally think 35s on 3.73s is a bad idea? Because if so you're wasting a lot of your time.

I THINK I SPEAK FOR EVERYONE WHEN I ASK YOU BOTH TO TAKE YOUR PISSING CONTEST SOMEWHERE ELSE. SERIOUSLY. THANKS.

 

[Rusty PW]

I THINK I SPEAK FOR EVERYONE WHEN I ASK YOU BOTH TO TAKE YOUR PISSING CONTEST SOMEWHERE ELSE. SERIOUSLY. THANKS.

I'm sitting with a bag of Cheeto's and a can of Dew, catching up on my reading.

 

[kevman65]

OP, the only cons are; you will see a drop in MPG, may be minor but it will happen, you will see a drop on top end. With the diesel the top end drop will be less than with the gas, but numbers are numbers and don't lie.

The biggest con is, you WILL want to go bigger. The biggest pro, on a Rubi you don't have to do a damned thing but spend the money for the 35's and they look good filling the wheel wells with no lift.

As for all the other angst, meh.

Oh, forgot, the look of 35's and no lift on a Rubi;

 

[TheGerman]

I'm on a stock JTRD and contemplating 35 vs 37 as well, and the 2" lift is on the horizon too.

My major concerns are more for the spare tire as the under-bed mount is fine for true 35, and maybe a little bit bigger, but at one point you have to change the track bar if you want to have the same spare tire as the other four wheels, at least if stick somewhere in the 35 to 37 area. I personally like 5 tire rotation to get the most out of tire investment, but that's just me.

Also, another question for the 37" folks here, when do you reach the point that the OEM jack is not high enough anymore and you have to swap jacks, or use plates underneath the jack?

 

[shokker70]

I own and daily drive 35s on 4.10s. I consider it borderline. I would not be happy with the same size tires on a taller final drive, or larger tires on the same final drive. How is relaying personal experience "trying to sound smart".

You follow me from post to post harassing me just for the sake of being rude. You really need to leave me the fuck alone. Don't think i didn't notice you laughing at my build thread either. You're either rude and oblivious to your own actions, or you're a bully. I think there's a bit in your profile which would allude to which of those two is the more likely scenario.

Bully or not, he's not wrong. 1st JT was a Sport S with 3.73 and 35s with Mopar lift. Didn't see 8th as often as I'd have liked, but not really noticeable other than that. Even averaged 19MPG with mixed driving.

Fast forward to my Mojave with standard 4.10s. Noticed zero difference from one vehicle to the other running 35s, and still missed 8th fear way more than I liked. In a diesel now, so kind of a moot point. Bottom line, no reason to re-gear just for 35s. Any data to share that would make it necessary? MPG savings? We need more than a personal feeling to spend that kind of cash. I don't think anyone driving a Gladiator is poor by any standard, but doesn't mean they have cash to burn.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Bully or not, he's not wrong. 1st JT was a Sport S with 3.73 and 35s with Mopar lift. Didn't see 8th as often as I'd have liked, but not really noticeable other than that. Even averaged 19MPG with mixed driving.

Fast forward to my Mojave with standard 4.10s. Noticed zero difference from one vehicle to the other running 35s, and still missed 8th fear way more than I liked. In a diesel now, so kind of a moot point. Bottom line, no reason to re-gear just for 35s. Any data to share that would make it necessary? MPG savings? We need more than a personal feeling to spend that kind of cash. I don't think anyone driving a Gladiator is poor by any standard, but doesn't mean they have cash to burn.

Anyone who has regeared before knows you don't regear for MPG savings.

You don't need data to know if you need to regear. Drive the Jeep.

You said you missed 8th gear way more than you liked. That is one reason for some to regear. Others may want the acceleration back.

Gearing is a subjective matter. Kind of hard to say someone is wrong unless they are way out in left field.

 

[Jeepasaurus_Rex]

I think the pro's would be increased clearance and a new tire option.
Cons.. maybe you will wish you had gone to 37's. Haha. But maybe not, it really just depends on what your plans for the juck are.

If you plan to do more with it from a modification standpoint, i'd say plan that out ahead of time to save yourself some money. If money is a non-issue, slap on whatever you want and see how you like it

 

[Jeepasaurus_Rex]

I'm on a stock JTRD and contemplating 35 vs 37 as well, and the 2" lift is on the horizon too.

My major concerns are more for the spare tire as the under-bed mount is fine for true 35, and maybe a little bit bigger, but at one point you have to change the track bar if you want to have the same spare tire as the other four wheels, at least if stick somewhere in the 35 to 37 area. I personally like 5 tire rotation to get the most out of tire investment, but that's just me.

Also, another question for the 37" folks here, when do you reach the point that the OEM jack is not high enough anymore and you have to swap jacks, or use plates underneath the jack?

There is a list on here that shows which 37's will fit under there, in case you're looking at some. I personally don't use the factory jack at all, even when it was stock. I keep it in the Jeep still...but I used bottle jacks and stuff instead. I keep a floor jack in the bed of the truck in my toolbox, as well as two bottle jacks... and the factory jack is still under the back seat.

 

[chorky]

Another thing to consider that I rarely see anyone openly discuss is where you live. In the flatlands maybe a tall gearset and 37’s will be fine. This is a pretty significant factor. Higher elevations. Mean a harder working engine, on too of steep roads - its a compounding problem. not to mention towing or fully loaded with camping gear.

I live in the rockies. Stock rubi so 4.10 and 33s. On downhills I can cruise in 8th comfortably. But 85% of the time I am in 7th. And when it is in 8th on the slight hills (flat basically doesnt exist) then the engine is lugging it. No doubt with 35’s I would hardly ever see 8th. The Rubi shoulda come stock with 4.56 knowing people would bump to 35’s half the time and a lot jump to 37’s.

Personally, I wont go any higher than 35’s. And might not even go that far. But still plan on a 2-3” lift. Mostly for a little extra belly clearance. I see more mall crawlers on 37’s than those actually needing that extra inch of clearance.

So folks should always consider where they live and/or the terrain they drive on and around when having such discussions IMHO.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Funny all this arguing over gearing on a gas truck and the OP clearly states in the first sentence of his post that he has a diesel.......

 

[shokker70]

Anyone who has regeared before knows you don't regear for MPG savings.

You don't need data to know if you need to regear. Drive the Jeep.

You said you missed 8th gear way more than you liked. That is one reason for some to regear. Others may want the acceleration back.

Gearing is a subjective matter. Kind of hard to say someone is wrong unless they are way out in left field.

If we were talking about the 3.21s you used to could get on a Wrangler, I'd agree. Was absolutely atrocious on anything but stock tires/wheels. I drove the 3.73 for two years, 4.10 for a year. Pretty good real world use and subjective or not, you're going to be hard pressed to tell the difference. Back to the point/post that brought this up, telling someone they pretty much need to re-gear for 35s just isn't true. Hard core Jeep enthusiast/gear head/engineer that can "feel it"? Possibly. 90% of the Jeep population wouldn't know the difference if they drove two Jeeps back to back that were exactly identical except for the gears. I believe that's the point that was being made. Add in the OP is asking about 35s on a diesel... I can tell you from experience, re-rear is NOT needed.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Exactly my point being. ? Same on 3.73s even as I'm sure it is for 95% of everyone else

Negative, garbage answer. If you think for one second that 95% of the population out there is perfectly fine with 35s on 3.73s then you need to climb out from under that rock I keep crawling over. My wife's gasser on 35s is utter trash on 3.73s. Shift points suck, never finds 8th gear, always hunting for gears, mileage sucks, feels sluggish, I can go on for days. Point is, it doesn't drive as good or better than it did when it was stock. And I can guarantee you that 95% of people will agree on that.

To the OP, your diesel will be just fine. I have a diesel and have driven with my wife's 35s on just to make my decision clear. The torque will get you out of situations a gasser never will. 35s feels closer to stock on the diesel than it does on the v6.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Funny all this arguing over gearing on a gas truck and the OP clearly states in the first sentence of his post that he has a diesel.......

Slow day at work today.

 

[CrazyCooter]

My 2006 Cummins was fine on 3.73's however it towed 20K on 22.5's much better after changing to 4.10's. I could pull the hills in 6th, but my top speed was limited to right at 106mph + or - depending on wheel slip.

My Peterbilt preferred 3.36's and could pull 13th gear up a 6% with a 20K load on it.

Oh ya......Were talking about diesel gladiators.......Squirrel!

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