Royal Purple transmission fluid????

[JTGuy]

I tend to overthink stuff. Even I am going with the ZF 8 speed trans fluid. Says on the bottle that it's made in Germany. I am going with a PPE trans pan that I sometimes wonder about.

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[Maximus Gladius]

I am going with a PPE trans pan that I sometimes wonder about.

What concerns do you have?

 

[WILDHOBO]

What concerns do you have?

Mine is working beautifully.

 

[Gladiator Brad 704]

My transmission is now and has always operated flawlessly. I do a moderate amount of light towing. 2K- 4K. I have a 2500 HD when things get heavy. 45K miles on the JT. I just like to keep my stuff in top shape. I want to use the best fluid I can reasonably find. Living in NC we have pretty hot summers and usually I am in a lot of dust. Planning on adding a deep pan at around 50K and just want the best fluid.

 

[WILDHOBO]

My transmission is now and has always operated flawlessly. I do a moderate amount of light towing. 2K- 4K. I have a 2500 HD when things get heavy. 45K miles on the JT. I just like to keep my stuff in top shape. I want to use the best fluid I can reasonably find. Living in NC we have pretty hot summers and usually I am in a lot of dust. Planning on adding a deep pan at around 50K and just want the best fluid.

It’s not about “best”. This isn’t an oil change where most of it comes out into the pan. You’re going to be mixing up to 6 quarts of new with 3 quarts of old. Or 5 and 4, depending on your drain results. You don’t want to mix the fluids. And anyone that recommends a flush to start with new fluid, isn’t someone you should take advice from.

 

[Gladiator Brad 704]

Good point.

 

[Mr._Bill]

My transmission is now and has always operated flawlessly. I do a moderate amount of light towing. 2K- 4K. I have a 2500 HD when things get heavy. 45K miles on the JT. I just like to keep my stuff in top shape. I want to use the best fluid I can reasonably find. Living in NC we have pretty hot summers and usually I am in a lot of dust. Planning on adding a deep pan at around 50K and just want the best fluid.

The 'best' fluid is already in it. Stick with OEM fluid for this transmission. That's what it was designed to use. Any other fluid being mixed into the transmission is trouble waiting to happen.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The 'best' fluid is already in it. Stick with OEM fluid for this transmission. That's what it was designed to use. Any other fluid being mixed into the transmission is trouble waiting to happen.

Yep.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

PSA: Stay away from Royal Purple products!

Hello, I may be newish to the forum but not to engines, transmissions, and building/servicing them. I have a deep background in automotive engineering including a hands-on education (do it wrong, you fail the class) as well as real world experience.

The discussions of "should I use Royal Purple in my..." are over a decade old and almost NEVER pay out for the lower cost. In fact, I've read, and seen, more horror stories about RP products than I have Mobile 1 after they switched from true synthetic base a decade ago (not getting into THAT debate). The only situation that has been the most consistent regarding RP products is for racing, specifically when you make 1 pass then change the fluids, and even then there's plenty of stories about engines/trannys failing during that 1 pass with RP. At one point there were even notices by manufacturers and RP themselves telling people to not use their products. I'd provide links but between the time it will take to find those sources from over a decade ago (prior to the censored internet we have in current times). Blackstone Labs have proven that RP isn't better than 90% of other quality oils on the market, and even causes more wear than the others.

For the money, just keep the Penzoil it comes with or switch to Amsoil. I've used both products over the years (even switched from M1) with great results. I use Penzoil in my JT and when I had my 3.0R Outbacks (2 of them) and never had an issue. I use Amsoil in my 2.17 stroker (wrx) and my 450 enduro/supermoto with zero issues, and I use those engines to their fullest with zero issues or consumption. The stroker has over 30k miles (sees redline and bounces off it, launch control, drifting/rally driving) and the 450 had over 300 hours on it before I started a new project. I tested with blackstone repeatedly and always had clean results. Amsoil ends up costing the same as RP or most other brands, and they're industry leading in oil as they started the 10k OCI theory decades ago with their research.

The most important factors with oil are this:

• Changing your oil ON TIME or early
• Maintaining the correct levels
• Use OEM filters, not aftermarket as they either restrict flow/allow more contaminants
• Changing your OCI based on usage

Transmissions are NOT exempt from OCIs, no matter what the dealer says. Remember they don't make money when it's a warranty repair, so what incentive do they have for telling you anything other than "lifetime fluid". It cost the consumer more in maintenance in their "annual cost reports" and when people are being told "buy an ev and you don't have to change oils" combined with the absurd cost of everything as is these days, and people will look elsewhere. Plus most people don't keep their vehicles past 100k anymore, unless they can afford it (or the dealer still offers parts). The biggest factor now is that oil pans are being made from plastic, and REQUIRE REPLACEMENT when you do a fluid service (I'm pointing at you Found On Road Dead).

The rule of thumb for transmission oils was always every 100k for "standard duty" driving, or every 25-30k for "severe duty" driving (towing/hauling, off-roading, avg temps at/above 100F or below 30F, racing, long idle times). Sadly this info is no longer provided in you owners manuals, or discussed in dealers unless you ask a foreman who's been around more than a decade. The only time you wouldn't flush tranny oil was with over 250k miles due to varnish they used to get with older fluids/materials, this isn't an issue when properly maintained.

Back to RP stuff. RP is known for the color of their oil, and within 500 miles will lose its color and just turn black (engine oil). It's known to be worse at protecting from heat, and has caused clutchpack failures from overheated fluid/clutches due to contaminants. Why bother the risk when there are better options? RP is known for bearing failures in engines from fluid shear (long time ago) but again, is the risk really worth the purple color/price difference?

I remember when stores STOPPED carrying RP because of all the issues and returns. They stock it now because if little-big-man jimmy still wants purple crack for his f250, they're going to sell it to him. The parts stores in my area don't even stock in in-store anymore.

For manual transmissions, this isn't really an issue. But I still wouldn't use RP products. They've got a recall for their coolant product of a stop-sale. Also their "warranty" is a scam. They've been known for not paying out on damage engines for making claims that people didn't check their oil and must have run it dry for it to fail with their product, or used the wrong weight then oem requires, or any other excuse.


EDIT: added info

 

[WILDHOBO]

PSA: Stay away from Royal Purple products!

Hello, I may be newish to the forum but not to engines, transmissions, and building/servicing them. I have a deep background in automotive engineering including a hands-on education (do it wrong, you fail the class) as well as real world experience.

The discussions of "should I use Royal Purple in my..." are over a decade old and almost NEVER pay out for the lower cost. In fact, I've read, and seen, more horror stories about RP products than I have Mobile 1 after they switched from true synthetic base a decade ago (not getting into THAT debate). The only situation that has been the most consistent regarding RP products is for racing, specifically when you make 1 pass then change the fluids, and even then there's plenty of stories about engines/trannys failing during that 1 pass with RP. At one point there were even notices by manufacturers and RP themselves telling people to not use their products. I'd provide links but between the time it will take to find those sources from over a decade ago (prior to the censored internet we have in current times). Blackstone Labs have proven that RP isn't better than 90% of other quality oils on the market, and even causes more wear than the others.

For the money, just keep the Penzoil it comes with or switch to Amsoil. I've used both products over the years (even switched from M1) with great results. I use Penzoil in my JT and when I had my 3.0R Outbacks (2 of them) and never had an issue. I use Amsoil in my 2.17 stroker (wrx) and my 450 enduro/supermoto with zero issues, and I use those engines to their fullest with zero issues or consumption. The stroker has over 30k miles (sees redline and bounces off it, launch control, drifting/rally driving) and the 450 had over 300 hours on it before I started a new project. I tested with blackstone repeatedly and always had clean results. Amsoil ends up costing the same as RP or most other brands, and they're industry leading in oil as they started the 10k OCI theory decades ago with their research.

The most important factors with oil are this:

• Changing your oil ON TIME or early
• Maintaining the correct levels
• Use OEM filters, not aftermarket as they either restrict flow/allow more contaminants
• Changing your OCI based on usage

Transmissions are NOT exempt from OCIs, no matter what the dealer says. Remember they don't make money when it's a warranty repair, so what incentive do they have for telling you anything other than "lifetime fluid". It cost the consumer more in maintenance in their "annual cost reports" and when people are being told "buy an ev and you don't have to change oils" combined with the absurd cost of everything as is these days, and people will look elsewhere. Plus most people don't keep their vehicles past 100k anymore, unless they can afford it (or the dealer still offers parts). The biggest factor now is that oil pans are being made from plastic, and REQUIRE REPLACEMENT when you do a fluid service (I'm pointing at you Found On Road Dead).

The rule of thumb for transmission oils was always every 100k for "standard duty" driving, or every 25-30k for "severe duty" driving (towing/hauling, off-roading, avg temps at/above 100F or below 30F, racing, long idle times). Sadly this info is no longer provided in you owners manuals, or discussed in dealers unless you ask a foreman who's been around more than a decade. The only time you wouldn't flush tranny oil was with over 250k miles due to varnish they used to get with older fluids/materials, this isn't an issue when properly maintained.

Back to RP stuff. RP is known for the color of their oil, and within 500 miles will lose its color and just turn black (engine oil). It's known to be worse at protecting from heat, and has caused clutchpack failures from overheated fluid/clutches due to contaminants. Why bother the risk when there are better options? RP is known for bearing failures in engines from fluid shear (long time ago) but again, is the risk really worth the purple color/price difference?

I remember when stores STOPPED carrying RP because of all the issues and returns. They stock it now because if little-big-man jimmy still wants purple crack for his f250, they're going to sell it to him. The parts stores in my area don't even stock in in-store anymore.

Great information. Thanks.

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