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To winch or not to winch

WILDHOBO

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One of these: https://www.warn.com/power-interrupt-kit-62132

Throw away the switch that comes with it. Wire one of your AUX lines to the trigger input.

Probably cheaper at other sources of your choice. It's an Ametek SAS-4214, but similar solenoids are available lots of places.
^This exactly. The solenoid should be rated for actual winch use.
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WILDHOBO

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I do not plan on getting a winch. I have 2 come a longs, chain, and straps in the bed in a Tupperware. Hopefully thats enough in the event i need it.
Nothing wrong with manual winching.
 

cranbiz

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Can you provide a link on how to add the isolation or switched function through the Aux switch? I mounted a winch yesterday, and the winch had no instruction or hardware for this. thanks!
You use either a remote power switch or a solenoid. The solenoid can be controlled from the aux switches.

I use a solenoid as I don't want to open the hood to use the winch. Wire the winch to the heavy terminals, connect the aux switch to one of the small terminals, ground to the other terminal.
I'm using a 500A continuous duty solenoid.
Jeep Gladiator To winch or not to winch 500A Winch Solenoid
 
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danend

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mkopec

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You use either a remote power switch or a solenoid. The solenoid can be controlled from the aux switches.

I use a solenoid as I don't want to open the hood to use the winch. Wire the winch to the heavy terminals, connect the aux switch to one of the small terminals, ground to the other terminal.
I'm using a 500A continuous duty solenoid.
500A Winch Solenoid.jpg
That is one of the craziest things I’ve ever seen!
Makes the best sense. Thanks for the pro tip!
Not sure on the link, but look for winch solenoid connected to factory aux switches. It’s a pretty straight forward connection.
Super suggestion; thanks! I should probably use one of the 2 low amp aux switches, since it is only controlling the solenoid coil. From what I understand 2 of them are rated at 40 amps, and 2 ea @ 15.
 

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WILDHOBO

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Makes the best sense. Thanks for the pro tip!

Super suggestion; thanks! I should probably use one of the 2 low amp aux switches, since it is only controlling the solenoid coil. From what I understand 2 of them are rated at 40 amps, and 2 ea @ 15.
Correct. 3 and 4 are 15amp, 1 and 2 are 40amp. I use aux three for my winch solenoid, aux 4 for a set of low power lights, and aux 1 and 2 for sets of higher power draw lights.
 

Warevelle

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A little background, I don’t plan on doing much more than easy to moderate off-roading in my JTR. I have a RZR XP Turbo with a winch and all the recovery gear that I take on the more difficult stuff. The issue is that I live in the Midwest, so deeper mud is always a possibility on the trails and sometimes at unexpected times. It’s rare I would ever be doing something solo, but no one in my group has a winch on their Jeep.

I’m debating the “I need help to get unstuck” risk if we can’t manage it with kinetic ropes vs the potential fire risk that winches (or any accessory wired direct to the battery) add. I’m a firefighter and have responded to several fires either parked or in accidents that I believe are likely caused by additional accessories added to the vehicle. I would certainly use a battery disconnect switch to minimize the risk.

I see both as fairly low probability, but the stuck one is mostly a pride hit and maybe paying someone to get me out. The fire risk, while also very unlikely, has much more serious consequences. I pride myself on being the prepared for everything person with my family and friends so I’m leaning towards adding the winch, but part of me keeps wondering if it is worth it.

Anyone else have this internal debate and land one way or the other?
Nope, new front bumper and a winch have always been the first adds and I have never had a problem. I do however have a battery disconnect switch that I will be adding to my current Jeep. First time I have done it but have too much going to the battery.
 

WILDHOBO

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Nope, new front bumper and a winch have always been the first adds and I have never had a problem. I do however have a battery disconnect switch that I will be adding to my current Jeep. First time I have done it but have too much going to the battery.
Can I ask why you’re choosing a disconnect switch over a solenoid disconnect? I’m not singling you out. Anyone with this choice is free to answer. For me, the idea of opening the hood to energize the winch positive wire doesn’t make sense. Is it even cheaper then a solenoid?
 

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I would rather have a winch and not need it then need it and not have it!

I admit I’m poser but not a mall crawler and hardly wheel but do drive out onto beaches that are sketchy at times and use my winch for pulling logs out of my woods. I bought an expensive winch but very lightweight 9000lb. winch. Whole setup including winch plate comes in at about seventy pounds have no sag and I mounted my winch control box remotely next to the battery. I feel that is the best way to do it ,no solenoids, no control wiring going to relays and switches, which are all failure points. What do I do for a living, I’m an electrician why make things complex that should be simple. My lead from control box to battery is about ten inches right at the battery, my hand held remote plugs in under the hood if wanted and my warn remote kit plugs into the handheld plug outlet on box and the remote works great.
I went to lengths to keep it simple and light , my winch is in the bumper and not visible or exposed, and bumper is the factory plastic. Most people have no idea there is a winch on the Mojave other then a gray Fairlead and grey flat link…..Jack

Edit: I rotated the clutch housing on winch so clutch handle is on rear of winch easily reached. Most basic old school
winchs with out decorative housings can rotate the clutch housing, just undo bolts pull them out and spin the housing, but do not, do not pull the housing off!
Jeep Gladiator To winch or not to winch IMG_1813

Jeep Gladiator To winch or not to winch IMG_2117
 
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mkopec

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I would rather have a winch and not need it then need it and not have it!

I admit I’m poser but not a mall crawler and hardly wheel but do drive out onto beaches that are sketchy at times and use my winch for pulling logs out of my woods. I bought an expensive winch but very lightweight 9000lb. winch. Whole setup including winch plate comes in at about seventy pounds have no sag and I mounted my winch control box remotely next to the battery. I feel that is the best way to do it ,no solenoids, no control wiring going to relays and switches, which are all failure points. What do I do for a living, I’m an electrician why make things complex that should be simple. My lead from control box to battery is about ten inches right at the battery, my hand held remote plugs in under the hood if wanted and my warn remote kit plugs into the handheld plug outlet on box and the remote works great.
I went to lengths to keep it simple and light , my winch is in the bumper and not visible or exposed, and bumper is the factory plastic. Most people have no idea there is a winch on the Mojave other then a gray Fairlead and grey flat link…..Jack
IMG_1813.jpeg
Can you add a picture of how you mounted your winch control box?
 

cranbiz

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How do you get to the free spool handle?
 

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Can I ask why you’re choosing a disconnect switch over a solenoid disconnect? I’m not singling you out. Anyone with this choice is free to answer. For me, the idea of opening the hood to energize the winch positive wire doesn’t make sense. Is it even cheaper then a solenoid?
Sure, I’ll bite. Cost had nothing to do with it (but FWIW my Blue Sea 6006 switch is like $25-30, so yeah it is a little cheaper). I didn't want to eat up one of my four aux switches (and I’d like to keep it to just the four, not add an additional controller and tons of wiring). But the main thing is having a dumb-stupid safety backup. Power solenoids and contactors can get stuck-on while winching, unable to break the contact (check youtube what that looks like; there’s often a fire). Is it likely that both the main pack and the disconnect solenoid would fail, probably not. But I prefer something with fewer moving parts here.

When going off-road, I’m stopping to deflate, unlock my hood latches, and do a general check anyway. I flip the winch switch on while waiting for the tires so there’s no extra time cost.
 

ShadowsPapa

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There's no risk of fire if properly installed with a switch/cutoff. It's then no different than anything without a winch. My cutoff is very close to the battery. I also use it as a terminal or junction for power to my snow plow so I only have one really short cable from the battery to the cutoff. And then from that battery side cutoff terminal, another short cable goes to a 200 amp fuse for my snow plow.
I have no more fire risk than anything else out there.

I've used my winch mostly for helping others - it's Iowa and people slide off the road in the winter, etc. or when a neighbor needed a big whole-house generator pulled off a trailer and positioned onto a concrete slab - my winch was used. I also used it to load a car onto someone else's trailer as he had no way to pull a car onto it. So I used a pulley/snatch block on the front of his trailer, pointed my jeep at the pulley on his trailer, ran the rope from winch through pulley then back to the car being pulled on.
In some respects, I'd already paid for itself as far as "was it worth getting and installing it". Yes, pulling a car out of a ditch on an ice/snowy day - seeing the look on his face when I offered, and then got it out and sent him on his way, and those other things, it was worth it.

As far as fire risk, the cables shouldn’t be energized at the front of the vehicle. A solenoid connected to an aux switch or any switch should be mounted right next to the battery. That way your risk of fire from an impact is the same as a direct hit to the battery itself.
Exactly - there's no power up front, the cable from battery to cutoff is very short, the cutoff is literally right at the battery, no increased risk.

I've had both types of switches - manual and solenoid, and the winter scenario showed me that it's not always that easy to get to the hood, get it open, and turn a big switch knob. I was sitting where it was a chore to get to the hood latch and risky in some ways. Sometimes it's just difficult to get to the hood to open it, sometimes it's not safe.


Jeep Gladiator To winch or not to winch 20221107_162140_HDR
 

Dave-in-RI

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In the past, I've used a come-along plus block-and-tackle (pulley box), got my '88 Bronco out just fine. You can get both for very, very short money. Google around, there are some pretty clever mods for them. Sure it's not "pull the cord and hit the button", but they fit under the seat and you can use them for other projects (moved a shed once). Had a tree guy drop a huge Norway Maple and he had a winch on his tractor, he used that to control the initial tip/lean while he cut, with a remote control while he sawed, so it didn't hit the house (suspenders and belt). So, plus one there for your jeep power winch column. Just consider the problem you're trying to solve-- if it's to get unstuck, there are ways to do it (tall jack also helpful depending on terrain).
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