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Waiting for the hatchet to fall ...............

Lunentucker

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My guess is it's only there to get the EPA ratings. In a practical sense it's stupid.

Quick and easy - pull fuse F42 and disconnect the ground cable from the AUX battery at the main.
More involved - That plus get in there and remove the AUX battery and its associated mess of cables, clamps, and connectors.
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ShadowsPapa

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ASS is hated because of the way it is implemented...Yea, if you like it have at it, but it should default off upon starting the vehicle and (not on). For those who want it to save a few pennies driving in heavy traffic, go head and enable it. But many of us don't drive in heavy traffic and have better and more meaningful ways to feel good about ourselves for "saving the planet" from climate change. 😉
oh my god. Again, I'm the one with ADHD and YOU are the one that can't pay attention.
It's not heavy traffic - in fact, in heavy traffic it's likely to not shut off because it must reach 3 mph and travel a certain distance before it will reset and shut down again. It's PROVEN by independent studies done by multiple independent sources, including Edmunds, to save 7 to 10% with their testing showing that 10% was a reasonable expectation for savings. Other studies agreed - and came to the same conclusion.

It can't default to off or they get NO credit for the system in their CAFE numbers. Again, you just prefer to be ignorant about it because of your pure hate of what you "don't get" and choose not to get.
Chevy used this, Mercedes, Volvo, BMW and other auto makers have used this same sort of system with two batteries, one being a "smaller aux battery".
If the high-end auto makers have found it works - then why not lowly Jeep?

I'm in same boat with same concerns.
Is it the main battery or auxiliary battery that is the culprit?
I like stop/start though haha
Neither, either, or both.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace the aux battery and been fine - so for them it was the aux battery.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace the crank/main battery and been fine - so for them it was the crank battery.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace both batteries and have been fine - so for them it was both..
And it can be the driver/owner. Batteries life CAN depend on how the vehicle is used - length of the drives, how often it's driven, the conditions and more.
And some is just pure dumb luck.

Those who pay attention to signs - there are reasons that vehicles since the late 1970s have sometimes come with a VOLT METER. Too bad people don't pay attention to their cars and trucks, watch and learn and pay attention to the very tools that they come with to monitor systems.
If one knows how things should work, then they can watch volt meters, and the behavior of the ESS to get clues to the health of batteries and electric systems in general

But here we go again, same old "I hate ESS" from those who choose to hate instead of learn and understand, same old totally wrong "facts" about how it works, why it's there and more.

This is all despite being driven ~30,000 miles a year, disabling ESS and using a tender.
Apparently no one has caught any of the times this has been mentioned - disabling ESS will do nothing for your battery life or the at rest voltage when you park.
The length of the drive, how the thing has been treated (is the tender made for AGM batteries??) heat, etc. - and is the tender correctly connected to a ground point on the chassis, or if it's "on the battery" is it on TOP of the IBS?
If it's directly on the negative post, you are doing yourself no favors.

You may try the charging method and IBS reset I've talked about several times elsewhere.
 

RavensEyeOffroad

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Neither, either, or both.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace the aux battery and been fine - so for them it was the aux battery.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace the crank/main battery and been fine - so for them it was the crank battery.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace both batteries and have been fine - so for them it was both..
And it can be the driver/owner. Batteries life CAN depend on how the vehicle is used - length of the drives, how often it's driven, the conditions and more.
And some is just pure dumb luck.

Those who pay attention to signs - there are reasons that vehicles since the late 1970s have sometimes come with a VOLT METER. Too bad people don't pay attention to their cars and trucks, watch and learn and pay attention to the very tools that they come with to monitor systems.
If one knows how things should work, then they can watch volt meters, and the behavior of the ESS to get clues to the health of batteries and electric systems in general

But here we go again, same old "I hate ESS" from those who choose to hate instead of learn and understand, same old totally wrong "facts" about how it works, why it's there and more.
well everyone can like or dislike what they want, idc. I just dont want to end up with a no start while on a trip. I do lot of short drives (taking kids to/from school). Ive not noticed anything different with how ESS works. It is drastically different than my wifes 2022 Cherokee X. Hers is ALWAYS ready. Imagine a drive-thru line, lots of stop > small move forward > Stop etc. Hers would always active every time. Mine since I have had it Ill get one function out of it in the line. Kinda weird. But it seems to be trucking along ok still.
 

whiteglad

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I had to learn that incredibly complex routine: to start it I press a button and now I have to press a second button immediately. I dabbed some white-out on the button that controls the stop system so I can find it even when brain dead.
 

joeym7

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oh my god. Again, I'm the one with ADHD and YOU are the one that can't pay attention.
It's not heavy traffic - in fact, in heavy traffic it's likely to not shut off because it must reach 3 mph and travel a certain distance before it will reset and shut down again. It's PROVEN by independent studies done by multiple independent sources, including Edmunds, to save 7 to 10% with their testing showing that 10% was a reasonable expectation for savings. Other studies agreed - and came to the same conclusion.

It can't default to off or they get NO credit for the system in their CAFE numbers. Again, you just prefer to be ignorant about it because of your pure hate of what you "don't get" and choose not to get.
Chevy used this, Mercedes, Volvo, BMW and other auto makers have used this same sort of system with two batteries, one being a "smaller aux battery".
If the high-end auto makers have found it works - then why not lowly Jeep?



Neither, either, or both.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace the aux battery and been fine - so for them it was the aux battery.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace the crank/main battery and been fine - so for them it was the crank battery.
There are forum members (plural) who have had to replace both batteries and have been fine - so for them it was both..
And it can be the driver/owner. Batteries life CAN depend on how the vehicle is used - length of the drives, how often it's driven, the conditions and more.
And some is just pure dumb luck.

Those who pay attention to signs - there are reasons that vehicles since the late 1970s have sometimes come with a VOLT METER. Too bad people don't pay attention to their cars and trucks, watch and learn and pay attention to the very tools that they come with to monitor systems.
If one knows how things should work, then they can watch volt meters, and the behavior of the ESS to get clues to the health of batteries and electric systems in general

But here we go again, same old "I hate ESS" from those who choose to hate instead of learn and understand, same old totally wrong "facts" about how it works, why it's there and more.



Apparently no one has caught any of the times this has been mentioned - disabling ESS will do nothing for your battery life or the at rest voltage when you park.
The length of the drive, how the thing has been treated (is the tender made for AGM batteries??) heat, etc. - and is the tender correctly connected to a ground point on the chassis, or if it's "on the battery" is it on TOP of the IBS?
If it's directly on the negative post, you are doing yourself no favors.

You may try the charging method and IBS reset I've talked about several times elsewhere.
Duh, WTH are you taking about, I guess you never drove in stop and go traffic - and stop with the personal insults - Good Grief, the same arrogance as always...You are the ignorant one, not my problem if Jeep can't figure out how to meet the café spec and give us the option to at least configure it to default off. Use some critical thinking for a change. Oh yea, and get your Truck in to get that engine warning light off, you like preaching to others but don't even follow your own advise - lol.

Every time someone has the tiniest criticism about jeep design you loose lock. Too bad! You need to control your emotional issue and shortcomings...They have courses in "How to get along with others" I think you might get a lot of benefit from taking one. LOL!
 
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wchevron

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Not sure if it's related but I just adjusted the door wiring connector pins. Couldn't get the mirrors to work. Now then I start the vehicle, it says Auto stop/start is disabled. So not sure if it can be disabled somehow through bent door pins or if it's just a coincidence.
 

Gladiator832

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I found it interesting that the factory installed 94R battery was only rated at 700 CCA. The ACDelco 94R that I got from Amazon for $160 is rated at 850 CCA.
How long ago was that replacement? Just replaced mine Sat and the Duralast was $240.00.
 

Jeepasaurus_Rex

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Well this thread has taken a weird turn.

I personally don't use the ESS system at all. For me, I'd rather have the vehicle on and ready to move in the event of an emergency situation. Granted, the ESS is pretty quick to fire the motor back up and get moving, there is still a lag there that I'm not comfortable with. So that's why I don't use it.

I see no need to complain or suggest that Jeep should have put it to be default "off" upon startup. It's a feature that comes with it, and if you don't want to utilize it... turn it off. However, I do wish that they had it set up so it would remember it's last state so that you didn't have to do it every time... but that's just a convenience factor.

If I want the convenience of not having to press the button every time, I'd get a Tazer. Which I did. So... theres no problem to be solved here. lol.

If you're annoyed by having to turn it off on every startup and wish it wasn't that way... Stop wishing, but a Tazer.

:)
 

Mr._Bill

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Northridge4x4

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Lunentucker

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I had to learn that incredibly complex routine: to start it I press a button and now I have to press a second button immediately. I dabbed some white-out on the button that controls the stop system so I can find it even when brain dead.
That won't stop a dying aux battery from cannibalizing the main battery when it starts crapping out.
 

redriderjf87

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Gotta agree here.

What I still don't understand is all the hate for the ESS.
It's proven to lower fuel consumption.
It's proven to reduce emissions.
The vehicle is designed to withstand the additional start cycles.
It's ready to go by the time you get your foot from the brake to the accelerator (at least for me.)

🤷‍♂️

Kevin
The starter is going to last a certain amount of cycles. The more frequently you cycle it, the sooner you hit that number.

If I know I'm going to be sitting for a bit, I'll shut the engine off manually. I see it as diminishing returns to blindly shut the engine off at every stoplight.
 

Advntrbound

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My battery in the cherokee died and left me stranded. The dealer told me to go any auto store and buy a decent battery, otherwise I would be back in a couple years getting another over priced battery replaced. Gotta like their honesty!
 

Higher_Ground

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I had my gladiator at the body shop for 7 months... the battery was dead when they decided to give it back to me.

I'm wondering how hard I should push back against that? I have a 2020 and it's the original battery, so I had it for nearly 2 years before they took possession. It was working just fine at the time, though.

Should I be arguing for a new battery? Some prorated pricing?
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