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Water fording question.

Willys2Gladiator

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So people are installing snorkles to forge deeper water. Jeep states 35" max. Is the 35" limit due to the air intake alone?
Will all the electronics in these new vehicles be able to be submerged? Seems like water and electronics equals bad news.
Just curious. Not forging any time soon just would like to understand what these rigs can withstand.

Thanks.
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I agree, I've wondered the same thing. Seen a few of them get totaled out from water that got just up to the center consoles, so it makes me wonder why the hell would you even hack up your hood on a snorkel on a modern Jeep with electronics that will fry if they get wet. Seems like your Jeep is long past totaled if you actually manage to get into water up to the stock air box...
 

JeepHouse

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Is it forging or fording? Honest question, I clicked on this link hoping to find something about metal working.
 

takeitsleazy

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It’s fording.

And for what it’s worth, I’ve both forded some deep-ish water, and had my top/doors off for two entire years in Guam in my JK, and no related electrical problems. When people kill their vehicles in shallow water, it means they were going too fast.
 

obrianmcc

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.... snorkels are installed for both dust and water. Raising the intake helps to locate cleaner and cooler air.
 

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Mark Doiron

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Pretty sure there is a thread elsewhere on this subject, but what the heck.

First off, the JT is rated for 30" deep water ford as a part of the Jeep "Trail Rated" badge program (that number is similar to the Wrangler number at the link below).

https://www.kendalldodgechryslerjeepram.com/what-it-takes-to-earn-jeeps-trail-rated-badge/

I've read quotes from Jeep head honchos last year during the release of the Gladiator about how they used that 30 inch number as a line to determine how water proof to make the electronics. Below that, resistant to the needs of fording. Above that, resistant to falling water (rainfall).

Second, when you lift your JT or put on larger tires, you are increasing some of those numbers for some of the parts. Replace 30" tires with 35" and your fuse box is now 2-1/2 inches higher and thus a little better protected. Add a 2-1/2 inch lift and now you're 5 inches higher.

Third, there are a few other things one should do to provide better protection. One is plumbing the vents for the transmission, transfer case and differentials higher (they are also at roughly 30 inches--except for maybe the manual transmissions, which aren't raised at all--at least that is definitely the case with the JK manuals). However, fording and sucking water into a diff or transmission is not likely to kill the vehicle midstream or cause immediate severe damage. Which is why after water fords it is recommended that all vehicle fluids be inspected for water contamination. None, you're good to go. Contaminated, change it out and press on.

Fourth, dielectric grease in the right spots can provide additional protection. It can also cause electrical gremlins if applied incorrectly because it doesn't conduct electricity. You would use it, for example, on the boot of a spark plug wire, but not where the electrode makes mechanical contact with the mating wire.

Fifth, if you're planning to ford water, I would recommend you have proper doors on. Yes, Jeeps of long ago were routinely hosed down outside and inside, but those days are long gone. Today's interior electronics are not rated to be hosed down, much less flooded, and you're asking for trouble if you do so. Regardless, folks do get caught in the rain and I've read posts on other forums with recent model year Wranglers where a few gremlins cropped up, but eventually, once allowed to dry, went away. With the cost of say, an 8.4" uConnect display, I wouldn't risk that on purpose.

Sixth, and the final reason I prefer a snorkel, folks have hydrolocked their engines in heavy downpours when they hit moderately deep water during heavy rains, but there was some amount of splashing. And, when you're in the middle of the desert and come across an unexpectedly deep water ford, which guy would you rather be, the one with a snorkel, or the one without?

10:15 if not forwarded automatically. There is discussion about the ford during a campfire a few seconds after the crossing ends ...
 
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Willys2Gladiator

Willys2Gladiator

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Thanks all for the replies and grammar lesson.
Much appreciated and interesting.
 

JeepHouse

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Thanks all for the replies and grammar lesson.
Much appreciated and interesting.
Sorry, I honestly didn't mean a grammar lesson. I'm new to this, and wanted to make sure I knew the terminology.
 

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Besides what everybody else has articulated above, There is a correct speed to go through high water. The idea is to create a "slight bow wave" that pushes the water forward, but, not over your hood, and makes it trail lower behind your hood. Look for jeep videos showing the technique. This helps a lot to avoid problems
 

Mark Doiron

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I forgot one other useful mod in my post above: A switch to turn off the engine cooling fan. That reduces splashing in the engine bay. On the Gladiator, I plan to use my last available aux switch to perform that function. I hope to add an 80-amp five pin horn relay that will be controlled by the aux switch, similar to how I did it in my JK through the sPOD. I say "
hope" because the 3.6L engine fan is variable speed, where the 3.8L is dual speed. More wiring involved on the former that may become an issue....

Jeep Gladiator Water fording question. 036--Engine Fan Relay Composite Image (studio chat)
 

PyrPatriot

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I already had a long discussion on the topic a while back ]

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/water-fording-depth.26673/

One is plumbing the vents for the transmission, transfer case and differentials higher (they are also at roughly 30 inches--except for maybe the manual transmissions, which aren't raised at all--at least that is definitely the case with the JK manuals). However, fording and sucking water into a diff or transmission is not likely to kill the vehicle midstream or cause immediate severe damage. Which is why after water fords it is recommended that all vehicle fluids be inspected for water contamination. None, you're good to go. Contaminated, change it out and press on.
The transfer case is not that high up I believe. The vent tube is just an inch above the top of the case. The axle breather tubes are just below the line of the fenders, which is certainly above 30" as the tires are 30" under load (mine were) and the vent tube was a couple inches above the top of the tire. Transmission vent tube is at the top of the engine. I think like anything Jeep is being conservative with water fording depth.

Fifth, if you're planning to ford water, I would recommend you have proper doors on. Yes, Jeeps of long ago were routinely hosed down outside and inside, but those days are long gone. Today's interior electronics are not rated to be hosed down, much less flooded, and you're asking for trouble if you do so. Regardless, folks do get caught in the rain and I've read posts on other forums with recent model year Wranglers where a few gremlins cropped up, but eventually, once allowed to dry, went away. With the cost of say, an 8.4" uConnect display, I wouldn't risk that on purpose.
The electronics around the body/floor are as sealed against water as anything else in the Jeep. The testing for water resistance was letting a spray of water go on for about 16 hours if I recall correctly. But more importantly for wires, according to somewhere I read (user manual most likely), and confirmed by the mechanics at the Jeep dealership where I get my JT services, they electrical connections can withstand pressure washing. Not point blank nozzle to connector, but a good deal of spraying and water pressure. I'm sure being submerged will be fine. Add to that I am seeing many, many folks fording water and getting creek inside their passenger cabin, and then just hosing it out and being fine, I'm postulating the wiring is not going to be the issue. But you nailed the point: is it worth the potential cost?

Sixth, and the final reason I prefer a snorkel, folks have hydrolocked their engines in heavy downpours when they hit moderately deep water during heavy rains, but there was some amount of splashing. And, when you're in the middle of the desert and come across an unexpectedly deep water ford, which guy would you rather be, the one with a snorkel, or the one without?
The biggest concern for splashing and water intake for the JL and the JT is the auxiliary air inlet on the passenger side right at the level of the headlight. It's a tube that goes straight to under the air intake box, which has holes under it. So if there will be hydrolocking I'd say without sealing that part of the air intake filter box no snorkle will help you. But I'm a n00b, just speculating from the diagrams and flows I can see water going through.

Besides what everybody else has articulated above, There is a correct speed to go through high water. The idea is to create a "slight bow wave" that pushes the water forward, but, not over your hood, and makes it trail lower behind your hood. Look for jeep videos showing the technique. This helps a lot to avoid problems
5mph for 30" of water. This is to account for any greater speed resulting in greater water pressure against seals and such, thereby allowing water to get in.

I forgot one other useful mod in my post above: A switch to turn off the engine cooling fan. That reduces splashing in the engine bay. On the Gladiator, I plan to use my last available aux switch to perform that function. I hope to add an 80-amp five pin horn relay that will be controlled by the aux switch, similar to how I did it in my JK through the sPOD. I say "
hope" because the 3.6L engine fan is variable speed, where the 3.8L is dual speed. More wiring involved on the former that may become an issue....

Jeep Gladiator Water fording question. 036--Engine Fan Relay Composite Image (studio chat)
Now I REALLY regret not getting a JT with the switch group...
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