What to buy Mojave or Rubicon?

[hjdca]

One thing Id like to know, what are the pros /cons of driving at 30mph in 4lo on a rubicon VS 30mph in 4HI on a rubicon.

So if you go with a 2.72 transfer case over the Rubicons 4.1, you're giving up more torque multiplying at lower speeds FOR a wider range of speeds you can use 4lo,right? And maybe more importantly the rpm band you're using is wider..... Sure a rubicon can do 50mph in 4lo, but at 7000rpm?

I think you're right, if I'm not bombing around dunes all day, I probably don't need the upgraded knuckles or beefed up frame, and the front locker and swaybar disconnect may come in handy on some overlanding or trail riding.

And it's easier to install new suspension stuff than outfit a Mojave with a locker and retro the elect swaybar disconnect to it.

Now I just need to buy one of both, compare for 3 months then give away the one that sucks....... Jk I know they'll both be wonderful and I'm not a millionaire.

When I was in the Dunes at Pismo with my Gladiator Rubicon, I exclusively used 4WH with lots of wheel spin and tires at 14 psi, 1st gear, all nanny's off. This was much better for climbing the dunes than 4WL with lockers. I seemed to get more momentum and power with 4WH, no lockers, first gear, ie. I could climb higher dunes without digging in. The Rubicon 4:1 transfer case is too low for the dunes. On my FJ62, which has a lot less power, and approx. 2.5:1 transfer case, on the same Pismo dunes, I use exclusively 4WL, no lockers available - mostly because of the power multiplication needed. That being said, I could climb any dune I dare to in 4WH, first gear with the Gladiator Rubicon. On some high speed down hill dune runs, I did bottom out the front shocks a few times, hence the need for the Mojave suspension for high speed.
Note: we are splitting hairs here, and I have a 3 pedal Gladiator Rubicon, so, the automatic may behave differently with the extra torque converter in the tranny. In addition, I may have had "off road plus" on in 4WL, which I recently learned still has rock crawler nanny's on, so, this maybe why I perceived less wheel spin in 4WL with the lockers on. I am not convinced I got all the nanny's off in 4WL while I was in Pismo.

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[steffen707]

Yeah, I get that but I haven't run into that too often - where a trail has high speed sections that also requires 4 low more than once or twice.

good point, I don't think that's too common and then you can just come to a stop and change to lo or hi.
Do you know what the gear for 4hi on the transfer case is of the rubicon? 4Lo is 4.1, right?

 

[Bobzdar]

good point, I don't think that's too common and then you can just come to a stop and change to lo or hi.
Do you know what the gear for 4hi on the transfer case is of the rubicon? 4Lo is 4.1, right?

Hi in almost all transfer cases is 1:1. Correct on low.

 

[Etoimos]

One thing Id like to know, what are the pros /cons of driving at 30mph in 4lo on a rubicon VS 30mph in 4HI on a rubicon.

So if you go with a 2.72 transfer case over the Rubicons 4.1, you're giving up more torque multiplying at lower speeds FOR a wider range of speeds you can use 4lo,right? And maybe more importantly the rpm band you're using is wider..... Sure a rubicon can do 50mph in 4lo, but at 7000rpm?

I think you're right, if I'm not bombing around dunes all day, I probably don't need the upgraded knuckles or beefed up frame, and the front locker and swaybar disconnect may come in handy on some overlanding or trail riding.

And it's easier to install new suspension stuff than outfit a Mojave with a locker and retro the elect swaybar disconnect to it.

Now I just need to buy one of both, compare for 3 months then give away the one that sucks....... Jk I know they'll both be wonderful and I'm not a millionaire.

The beefier frame could be a plus with all the extra weight of overlanding gear. As to adding the front locker and e-disco to the Mojave, a front ARB locker will set you back about $1500 installed (the required on board air will be shared with the overlanding expenses) and disconnecting the sway bar for overlanding is not necessary. I've yet to disconnect mine on any of my overland trips. If you do decide you need that function, you can add quick disconnect for less than $200 in about 20 minutes. During any high speed stuff you don't want it disconnected anyways, you get to much body roll.

Compare those to the roughly $3500 in suspension that the Mojave comes with stock (assuming you leave that part of it stock).

If you are wanting a jack of all trades JT, I think the Rubicon is the way to go. If you want a dedicated overland rig, the Mojave might be the way to go. We'll just have to wait and see what the final specs really are on it.

I read about somebody saying they got tired of having to stop and go from 4lo to 4hi in their 4.1 tcase rubicon over and over when following 2 other guys with 2.72 tcase that just left it in 4lo the whole time.

Wish i could find that again.....

Yeah, I get that but I haven't run into that too often - where a trail has high speed sections that also requires 4 low more than once or twice. Usually it's mostly one or the other, but I can see that being a concern out west, just not so much on the east coast where I've been. I usually don't need 4 low, but that's one of those things that when you need it and the lockers, you're really glad you have it.

Out here in the mountainous west 4L can often be to low. I find my self having to either stop and switch between 4L and 4H quite often or going slower than I'd like so I don't have to change out of 4L.

All of this said, I'm still undecided between the Rubicon, the diesel, and the Mojave. I love my JKUR for rock crawling, but I've gotten out of that over the last couple of years and got into overlanding with my son and father. I think the best overlanding rig could be a diesel Mojave, but we will not get that from the factory

 

[capercrew02]

I absolutely love my rubi, I’ve done many wheeling trips, and a fair amount of overlanding with it, and I have to say my only complaints are the front suspension being too soft at speeds, and 4low being too steep when in the dunes. But on technical rocks the 4 low 4:1 has been so valuable. Ultimately if my gladiator was totaled today, I would still get another rubicon. I feel the rubicon offers a more all around capable vehicle, while the Mojave is a more specialized vehicle. I love going fast and love the dunes, so I’ll be upgrading my shocks once I decide how much I’m willing to spend haha.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

There is only 2 things I like about the Mojave over the Rubicon... The dual-reservoir piggyback Fox shocks, and the SRT-style hood. Other than that, Rubicon all the way.

 

[capercrew02]

Reservoir internal bypass shocks with hydraulic bumpstops!!!

There is only 2 things I like about the Mojave over the Rubicon... The dual-reservoir piggyback Fox shocks, and the SRT-style hood. Other than that, Rubicon all the way.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Reservoir internal bypass shocks with hydraulic bumpstops!!!

They are still technically remote-reservoir piggybacks. I don’t give a shit how Jeep churched-up the name to sound fancy.

 

[capercrew02]

They are still technically remote-reservoir piggybacks. I don’t give a shit how Jeep churched-up the name to sound fancy.

I mentioned it more stating they are internal bypass also. That internal bypass makes a big difference compared to a standard reservoir piggyback. And technically the fronts aren’t piggyback, they're remote reservoir since the reservoir doesn’t mount to the shock body. I just hope people realize that it’s more than a $1500 suspension package Jeep has put together on this truck. I really hope they will offer it as a package through mopar instead of what they are currently offering.

 

[whiteglad]

I would like the cast iron knuckles instead of aluminum used on everything but Mojave. Jeep says cast, but I remember them being forged 50 years ago, like on my Oldsmobile.

 

[tampahoosier]

I'm considering a Mojave over Rubicon as well. I figured if I'm going to go with 37" tires then I'll have to re-gear anyways and I can toss a locker in at that point to share the cost. I'd just go with a front rubicon e-locker then buy the rubicon switch to get both lockers controlled like a stock OEM setup.

My only real sticking point is with those fancy shocks. I'd keep the hydraulic bump stops but would obviously have to sell the shocks that come with the mojave in order to upgrade to something like the Rock Krawler 2.5" lift. Everyone does the same when they lift the Rubicon so I don't consider it a HUGE deal that I'd do the same. I asked this question in another thread... Does anyone know the amount of travel on these Mojave shocks? I'm wondering if they have enough travel to be used with a 2.5" lift (I'm assuming no but I thought it was worth an ask).

If not I figured I could sell them and recoup some of the loss in lifting the jeep with a new lift kit. Anyone got an idea of a potential selling price, if I could even get the shocks to sell???

 

[Etoimos]

I'm considering a Mojave over Rubicon as well. I figured if I'm going to go with 37" tires then I'll have to re-gear anyways and I can toss a locker in at that point to share the cost. I'd just go with a front rubicon e-locker then buy the rubicon switch to get both lockers controlled like a stock OEM setup.

My only real sticking point is with those fancy shocks. I'd keep the hydraulic bump stops but would obviously have to sell the shocks that come with the mojave in order to upgrade to something like the Rock Krawler 2.5" lift. Everyone does the same when they lift the Rubicon so I don't consider it a HUGE deal that I'd do the same. I asked this question in another thread... Does anyone know the amount of travel on these Mojave shocks? I'm wondering if they have enough travel to be used with a 2.5" lift (I'm assuming no but I thought it was worth an ask).

If not I figured I could sell them and recoup some of the loss in lifting the jeep with a new lift kit. Anyone got an idea of a potential selling price, if I could even get the shocks to sell???

Since you want the front locker and don't care about the Mojave's suspension, it sounds like you would be better off getting the Rubicon.
Can one just put an elocker in the front? It uses the same front axle housing, but have we heard if the front diff is the same, just minus the locker? If that is the case, I can see a factory front locker as an option in year 3-4.

 

[whiteglad]

We don't know if the front housing on the Mojave will be machined for a locker and its wiring, with a cap over the hole. Also, the switches and almost everything on today's vehicles, send a "request" to the computer to activate or deactivate something. You can't just "throw" a switch onto the Jeep and expect it to have the necessary wiring harnesses already factory installed, or the computer to recognize the "requests" without the dealer re-flashing the computer. I agree with the above post that you might be closer to your intended build, and safer in your choice, to get the Rubicon. I have looked at the Mojave and while it is interesting, it looks like the shock reservoir might be right where a front trailer hitch would go--useful not only to move a trailer around but also as a jacking point. Also, the extras on that model have significantly reduced the towing and hauling ratings vs. the Sport S max tow which I bought. Look under a Gladiator. Lots of stuff looks vulnerable to rocks if you high center, including the exhaust cross over. It would not be my choice for serious rock crawling, which is one main use for a front locker--huge mud bogs being another. I think open diffs will work for me and my intended off-road uses, and if a locker becomes something I want, by then I expect Detroit (Eaton) or Yukon will have one with the spline count we need.

 

[tampahoosier]

Since you want the front locker and don't care about the Mojave's suspension, it sounds like you would be better off getting the Rubicon.
Can one just put an elocker in the front? It uses the same front axle housing, but have we heard if the front diff is the same, just minus the locker? If that is the case, I can see a factory front locker as an option in year 3-4.

I haven't heard anything on the front diff either way, just making an assumption that it would be that easy from what I've seen in the past. You are correct, the front locker wouldn't be done right away. I'd wait until it's time to get new tires, then make the jump from the 33s to 37s and re-gear.

I should clarify why I want the mojave. I really like the beefier build and reinforcements, the hood, steel leather color, hydraulic bump stops and the 2.72 transmission. I don't think I need the 4:1 for crawling b/c I'll never be crawling in a truck. Even on some moderate obstacle courses at the Jeep events here in central FL I'll be fine with that ratio; that's all the truck will be able to do with that long bed hanging over the rear wheels anyways.
The mojave comes in a tad cheaper when I price it out with all the bells and whistles AND it qualifies for the 2k FCA cash.
Not sure if that cash will still be there if I were to order today and take delivery some time in June most likely and/or if the Rubicon will also have it at that point. That's the big gamble to me and why the mojave is more attractive.

Again if I knew I could sell the suspension (keeping the bump stops though) and make some money off them I'd feel much more comfortable. I just don't know what type of price I could fetch for them.

 

[tampahoosier]

We don't know if the front housing on the Mojave will be machined for a locker and its wiring, with a cap over the hole. Also, the switches and almost everything on today's vehicles, send a "request" to the computer to activate or deactivate something. You can't just "throw" a switch onto the Jeep and expect it to have the necessary wiring harnesses already factory installed, or the computer to recognize the "requests" without the dealer re-flashing the computer. I agree with the above post that you might be closer to your intended build, and safer in your choice, to get the Rubicon. I have looked at the Mojave and while it is interesting, it looks like the shock reservoir might be right where a front trailer hitch would go--useful not only to move a trailer around but also as a jacking point. Also, the extras on that model have significantly reduced the towing and hauling ratings vs. the Sport S max tow which I bought. Look under a Gladiator. Lots of stuff looks vulnerable to rocks if you high center, including the exhaust cross over. It would not be my choice for serious rock crawling, which is one main use for a front locker--huge mud bogs being another. I think open diffs will work for me and my intended off-road uses, and if a locker becomes something I want, by then I expect Detroit (Eaton) or Yukon will have one with the spline count we need.

And there is always that, a 3rd party. I have ARB lockers front and rear on my TJ and I love them. I would think Tazer would come out with an option to allow a front locker and that switch... It can pretty much do anything else! Thanks for the clarification on the the front axel being "ready" for a drop in OEM locker.
I wouldn't be using the truck for serious rock climbing, it's not made for that with the wheel base. I want something that can use for light to mod trail use and if I towed it'd never be more than 6k anyways. More likely under 5k to be honest.
I'm still not totally sold on the truck, I had my heart set on a JLU Rubi diesel but I've been backing off the diesel recently and now I go back and forth on JT vs JLU. I will keep this thing for 15+ years, as a third vehicle once it's paid off so the question my wife and I have always had was what will we get more use out of long term? A truck bed seems to come up a lot. I also like the slightly larger back seat and the fact that the seats are a little more reclined in the JT than the JLUs.
I should just buy one of each and be done with it!

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