What's a mod that you wouldn't do again?

[Kevin_D]

any input on how we can improve it diy style?

Here’s the thread…
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...asher-jets-released-for-jeep-gladiator.61407/

Work backwards from the last post, and there are some posts discussing the through-the-cowl hose.

Kevin

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[HooliganActual]

@CrazyCooter @jav_eee

Your discussion is really the crux of the problem with the flat solar panels. The outfits that sell these conveniently don't advertise the effect that heat has on the efficiency of the solar panel. I mean, it is an inherent problem with something that is designed to sit out in the sun, it will heat up; but what they conveniently "leave out of the conversation" is that (for those hood mounted solar panels) the engine heat will render it near useless when the engine is running and the absorbed heat will impact it just sitting around camp after the engine has cooled off.

AND if you were to take one of the larger flat/flexible panels that would typically be used on top of an RV and glue it to the roof (like they advertise), you will wind up with the same problem. The panel and the roof beneath it heat up in the sun and because the panel is glued to the roof, there is not enough air circulation to keep it cool...and efficiency drops.

Even if your efficiency loss and resulting watt output meets your need, this overheating condition shortens the life of the panels as well.

Your best bet is to either go with the portable/suit case style or mount the panels such that there is air flow for "cooling":

 

[CrazyCooter]

@CrazyCooter @jav_eee

Your discussion is really the crux of the problem with the flat solar panels. The outfits that sell these conveniently don't advertise the effect that heat has on the efficiency of the solar panel. I mean, it is an inherent problem with something that is designed to sit out in the sun, it will heat up; but what they conveniently "leave out of the conversation" is that (for those hood mounted solar panels) the engine heat will render it near useless when the engine is running and the absorbed heat will impact it just sitting around camp after the engine has cooled off.

AND if you were to take one of the larger flat/flexible panels that would typically be used on top of an RV and glue it to the roof (like they advertise), you will wind up with the same problem. The panel and the roof beneath it heat up in the sun and because the panel is glued to the roof, there is not enough air circulation to keep it cool...and efficiency drops.

Even if your efficiency loss and resulting watt output meets your need, this overheating condition shortens the life of the panels as well.

Your best bet is to either go with the portable/suit case style or mount the panels such that there is air flow for "cooling":

Yes, I agree with you on all of that. Heat soak is a huge factor. All of my RV systems were installed with airflow under the panels in mind.

I have been advising some of the overlanders coming into the shop to consider skipping the solar. Either invest in LiFePo battery system with large DC-DC chargers/wiring to support assuming they move every day or two. If you sit parked and have huge power needs, them a larger hard panel system is in order.

I personally run my rig on the road with a Jackery 1500 that charges from the 120v console outlet because we move pretty much daily. Carrying fold up panels is just more junk bouncing around in the rig, weight, and something else to load/unload/reload. The people working mobile or charging 10 cameras might need more than this?

It's so hard when you have the "Influencers" selling the soap........Every video shows all of the gear you are supposed to buy all laid out on display. How many miles a day do these guys actually cover between all of the camera angles, cooking gourmet meals 3 times a day under awnings, and setting up/tearing down camp?

 

[HooliganActual]

It's so hard when you have the "Influencers" selling the soap........Every video shows all of the gear you are supposed to buy all laid out on display. How many miles a day do these guys actually cover between all of the camera angles, cooking gourmet meals 3 times a day under awnings, and setting up/tearing down camp?

This! All day every day!

I was just up at Overland Expo West and saw a bunch of the YouTubers, talked to a select few. So many of them are pushing what they are being sponsored by and are missing that slice of reality. I mean my Renogy battery cost half of what the comparable BattleBorn would. Maybe the BB is better but I'm also not being given them for "free".

 

[AverageOverlander]

The entire Bulletpoint Mounting Solutions Rubigrid system. I bought it in a rush after seeing how cool it was - and it really is! - I just never use it. I hate my phone, and the last thing I want to do is have it staring me in the face while driving.

Their grab handle mounting balls are really slick, and every single one of their attachments work great. Just make sure you think through your use case before buying anything from them like I did.

I actually use them and have to say it's a solid quality mount. I use the Avenza map app so I still need my phone mounted for viewing. A bit surprised Avenza still hasn't integrated with CarPlay, it's supposedly been in the works for years now

 

[Highwaystar13]

For me it would have to be my JCR Offroad bedrack. Don't get me wrong it's performed well and since I bought it before prices went crazy, I don't feel I overpaid for it. The biggest issue I have is it's lack of modularity. JCR doesn't sell additional side blades for it. The holes they have where you can mount things tend to be really small so modification is needed. They're ok if you're doing "light overlanding/camping" but if you wanted to truly equip your bedrack it will leave you wanting more. Also because there is no option to change the configuration, accessing the bed from the side is challenging or outright impossible.

 

[2terpsjeep]

American Adventure Labs inner fender liners. They suck. They don’t fit correctly. The passenger side, which doesn’t require anything being relocated on the diesel, was actually the side that wouldn’t go on without extensive modifications. They’re supposed to be quick disconnect but they’re a pain to get on and off regardless. But mainly they bind and pop and clunk and rattle off road. I’ve had to remove them twice to reshape them to save my sanity. I’m probably going to put rubberized edging material around them to mitigate this further. They mostly just look cool.

I got the full boat - AAL quick release fender liners front and back, along with their Highline lights. I did the fender chop (I have a Mojave with the 2 piece fenders), but I've had nothing but problems with their lights. My JT came with halogens, so I ordered their "bulb out" fix jump harnesses, to go between the truck and the new LED lights. Well, those things kept failing. I've had to re-order 4 sets of them. So far 7 of 8 harnesses have crapped out. Some times they cover shipping, sometimes they don't. In my opinion, any company that has to ship out a replacement part b/c their product is shite, should cover the shipping. I'm stuck with their lights now that I split the fenders. After the last set 7th harness failed, I took the one working one out and ordered a Tazer, which I plan on installing this weekend.

I haven't had any issues with the liners themselves (mine don't rattle at all), the quick releases work well - I know because I've had to pop them out multiple times to access and replace the jump harnesses for the turn signals. I had the cutouts powder coated orange to go with the Mojave accents, so you're probably right, they just look cool more than anything else.

BUT if I had to do it all over, I probably wouldn't get them. I definitely wouldn't get the AAL Highline Lights. I want to get a set of Apex Autolynx disconnects, and I'm afraid to pull the trigger now because I may have to cut into those liners to make them work, which I am NOT ready to do. Live and learn.

 

[Artec]

damn. I remember watching your video on getting those. Def not cool.

All of our belly pans have been revised since December. the new kits have smoother radiuses on some panels, we have opened up the tolerances some for vehicle to vehicle tolerance ranges, as well as some bend areas were changed by a few degrees to increase clearance around the crossover pipe so you can fit your hand between the crossover pipe and oil skid now. As well as there is a mid exhaust skid available and oil pan skids feature a removable door for more drain plug protection

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

All of our belly pans have been revised since December. the new kits have smoother radiuses on some panels, we have opened up the tolerances some for vehicle to vehicle tolerance ranges, as well as some bend areas were changed by a few degrees to increase clearance around the crossover pipe so you can fit your hand between the crossover pipe and oil skid now. As well as there is a mid exhaust skid available and oil pan skids feature a removable door for more drain plug protection

Ive no dog in the fight, i think you should send Berserker bro (not me the other berserker)a new set and let him do a video on the changes. =)

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

This thread is good stuff. I have been eyeballing the gen3 but maybe will hold back look at some other solutions.

Definitely interesting to see others' feedback. I have the Gen3 and would gladly do again:
* It's not a difficult install
* If nothing else, I like the bus bar that has 3 terminals in a variety of sizes (positive and negative) for wiring accessories

 

[Charles 236]

So far, no mods, but this is a useful thread. On a past vehicle, the only mod I regretted was the first one. I am being much more thoughtful about what to mod on my Gladiator.

 

[MJRSC]

If I was doing it again there are a number of things I would do different. For a variety of reasons.

The only mod that I felt was completely a waste though was the steer smarts sector shaft brace. It was fine at first, but it didnt even make it 10K miles before the bearing seized and it just started squeaking and grinding. I replaced the bearing with one from a member that had taken theirs off, and its already squeaking again. Perhaps its just florida wheeling where there is water and sand everywhere, but giant waste of money.

Second mod I regret is the steer smarts track bar. This track bar is great in every way but the adjuster sleeve bolt size. If i had a non fox ATS it might be ok, but with the fox ATS there just isnt room for it along with beefy rpm steering tie rod and draglink.

This is not what I wanted to read as I just ordered my Fox ATS damper and the Yeti drag link.

I still have my stock tie rod though but do have the Yeti track bar on the truck now.

 

[bleda2002]

This is not what I wanted to read as I just ordered my Fox ATS damper and the Yeti drag link.

I still have my stock tie rod though but do have the Yeti track bar on the truck now.

My issue was with the trackbar/draglink and squishing the fox ats once I mounted it on the tie rod. If you are stock location should be fine, if not you can try to play with the ats to make it fit but it's just super tight. I've rubbed the stickers off the front and back of mine from the tight squeeze

 

[Zachattack50]

The mopar performance wipers are a no go. The fit is terrible on the hose coming up to the wiper blade. They put down alot of washer fluid, but that hose isn't going to last long, probably go back to original when it ruptures. At least I'm only out $175

 

[GobiExploring]

Oof! Hate to hear this. My kit has just been sitting here since I got it. Too many other things to play with on the Jeep so it keeps getting pushed back. ?

I really like mine. It comes with a second set of wipers and all you do is replace the blades. I also was able to tuck the hose pretty well. It doesn’t very get hit by anything.

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