Will this combo do for Redarc install in JT?

[jwilson2899]

I couldn't tell by the pics - did you use the 020 Ram Redarc harness?
You are pulling a fair load with the Jeep on that trailer, with an Overland (what I have)
I like the looks of the install in the 12v outlook spot and how the white lettering helps.

I plan on filling the letters to match the other lettering in the Jeep - Not as steady as I used to be - but also did the orange in these gauges, pointers and scale areas.

I used a Lacquer-stik to do mine and it worked pretty well You basically rub it into the letters and then I used a rag to clean off the excess. A spot of WD-40 lightly on the rag cleaned it right off. I like how it brought the letters up flush, so they almost look silkscreened on.

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[Michael@WeGo4WhlLow]

Looks Great.... That's some great old school stuff... Too old for that!!!
Here is what I used:

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Since I'm using the Redarc controller - I went withe the Redarc harness. Two things - it's proven that it works, and, if there are any issues with the controller or wiring, it's their part, so they will support it. (the Redarc part was also 6 bucks cheaper)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Got the trailer brake controller installed, finished today and tested using my trailer. It took several miles and turns and brake applications while moving to get it out of calibration mode but it finally settled to solid blue with trailer connected. Brakes work great. Interesting that the trailer brakes let loose last when I let up on the brake pedal. At least I know they are working that way - and the feel of how it stops as well.

I chose a slightly different mounting point for the main control box than others here have chosen.
I didn't want to clip or trim anything, wanted it to require the least amount of modification possible but still be simple and reliable.

I had trouble finding the bloody factory trailer brake controller harness connector! It was taped to the big harness running up the left kick panel area. I felt and felt and didn't find anything loose or a connector not connected. Then I tried thinking differently and found a connector that had tape holding it tight against another harness - not typical. I pulled and the tape finally came loose and the connector was there, with a whopping inch of movement. WOW, that baby was tight in there, couldn't even hardly pull it down to plug into it. Had to pull really hard so I could get it to the point the end was free to plug into.

I also pulled things apart a bit further than some may - I wanted to be able to keep the 12v outlet connector handy in case I decided I still needed one. So I pulled loose the panel that has the window switches and would have the aux switches if you have them (I do not). You have to take a single screw out then the switch panel pulls loose like the panel below the steering wheel. Always pull straight, not at angles, don't wiggle 'em loose.

I'll cover my differences in pictures, other stuff not covered is probably the same as other members have done, no need to duplicate it.
I may show a bit more detail on swapping the wires in the Redarc Ram harness just because I could.

This is the end of the Ram harness that connects to the JTs harness. Note the black and blue wire positions as they are originally. You need to swap those two. They are power + (black) and power from controller to trailer brakes (blue).

The connector has a white plastic clip that secures the terminals in place - you need to release and remove this - careful, so you can put it back later.
Release these (both sides) and carefully push the tabs forward, toward the open end of the connector. I lifted the ends, and used a probe to push the sides inward (arrow) on one side to make it easier.

Here is the piece you have to remove to switch terminals. You need to put it back later to secure them again.

This is how the connector looks with the plastic clip removed.

Using a narrow, sharp pick or similar tool, gently push the gray lock tabs to the right (as shown in this pic) and pull outward on the wire at the same time. I put this in a vise with smooth aluminum jaws to protect it and allow me to move the clip with one hand and pull the wire with the other hand.

Switch the black and blue wires, push them back in until they click, and put the white retainer back in place - until it clicks. Now it should look like this. I marked things in case I got interrupted somewhere in the middle!

To verify (call me paranoid, not wanting to blow anything up) I checked that the black wire at the controller end actually had live BATTERY power when the other end was plugged into the JT's harness.

A lot of folks I've seen pics and videos by put their controller where I have the red box drawn. Simple, you drill straight forward, secure, easy access, all yes - but - you have to clip off parts of the plastic trim because the trim won't go back on otherwise. I didn't want to do that - and found an easy spot for it, no trimming involved.

I double-checked, nothing there that might be blocked as far as access or air flow, so I marked and drilled the holes indicated (red lines)

A better shot (focus) of the holes drilled and what else was up there -

Here it is, screwed in place on the bottom of the brace. I could still access the firewall connections if I desire to put in the security bypass cable to use jscan, etc. if I want to. And there's easy enough access for the controller wiring.

Same thing, just a view from below looking up.

I decided to reinforce a bit - took a piece of aluminum angle, cut to length between the controller mount braces, and drilled - no washers needed, it's one loong washer plus the angle helps prevent the controller from vibrating. The angle is snug against it.

I snapped the cover back in place and this is a shot showing how it all clears. This is looking up and back toward the seat.

I used my fine jewelers files to make the notch for the controller knob bezel - SNEAK UP ON IT, be patient, file, test fit, file, test fit.

Test fit - perfect, snug but not tight.

I hooked up to my trailer and drove it around a few miles, multiple stops and turns and hills etc.

And in brake mode (don't worry, I was in my driveway going about .0001 mph so I wasn't snapping pics on the road while driving)

This may seem strange, but I swear this truck was shifting differently with the trailer on it this time compared to last winter when I was pulling it empty - no trailer brake controller at all.
It seemed to hold gears longer, and I was getting slightly better mpg (but then was only going 55 mph compared to 70 last winter)
Still, it seemed different.
Love the feel of the trailer brakes operating. Before it was finished calibrating I came to a stop sign and the trailer brakes LOCKED solid and stopped the truck pretty quickly - I wasn't braking that hard. After that, it seemed to calm down and do better. In the end, stops were smooth and nice, as hoped for.
And I LOVE that front receiver for turning the trailer around and parking that long 18' flat bed in that tight spot next to my shop. That is so cool, switch the truck around, and watch straight ahead as I park it. Takes getting used to, though!

 

[Jay Gatsby]

Got the trailer brake controller installed...

Great write-up. This will help others immensely. Thanks!

 

[jwilson2899]

Got the trailer brake controller installed, finished today and tested using my trailer.

Great writeup, thanks for capturing the pics I should have when I did mine, lol. Looks great and glad to hear it works well.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Great writeup, thanks for capturing the pics I should have when I did mine, lol. Looks great and glad to hear it works well.

You and WXMan and one or two others - I can't recall names very well - who did similar and had some hints are what got me started. I just took it all and ran with it.

 

[Red Hot Sloth]

@ShadowsPapa Wow, thanks for sharing your research and install, I need to install a brake controller before the end of the month and this info is exactly what I was looking for.
One question, which removal tool are ya’ll referencing for the 12v and do you have a link?
Thanks again

 

[ShadowsPapa]

@ShadowsPapa Wow, thanks for sharing your research and install, I need to install a brake controller before the end of the month and this info is exactly what I was looking for.
One question, which removal tool are ya’ll referencing for the 12v and do you have a link?
Thanks again

This is the tool I used upon the recommendation of a couple of other JT owners...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G3YYSLE

Still was almost the hardest part of the whole install as in my particular case, the tool didn't go into the notches and release the plastic like it should. I blame the tool for being a bit thick on the tabs that go into the notches, but it could be that I was a little thick in using it well.

 

[Red Hot Sloth]

This is the tool I used upon the recommendation of a couple of other JT owners...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G3YYSLE

Still was almost the hardest part of the whole install as in my particular case, the tool didn't go into the notches and release the plastic like it should. I blame the tool for being a bit thick on the tabs that go into the notches, but it could be that I was a little thick in using it well.

Thank you, much appreciated.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thank you, much appreciated.

Glad it helps - I normally do a far better job of documenting things I do, I had intended many more photos, every step, but got so involved I didn't get that accomplished.

 

[jwilson2899]

Thank you, much appreciated.

If it helps I made a video showing how to use the tool

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/12v-outlet-lighter-removal.30219/

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If it helps I made a video showing how to use the tool

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/12v-outlet-lighter-removal.30219/

Your vid is how I learned of that tool. However, after a half hour trying to get that 12 volt outlet out without breaking something (because I wanted to move it to a different location and re-use everything) I found out why the thing was sooo hard to remove - the tool didn't go into the notches in my 12v outlet shell - it was a bit too big and it flared the metal out into the plastic instead of going into and through those square openings. I found too late that had I filed the tabs on the tool down a bit (because they are stamped, there was a bit of a sharp side that was proud of the flat surface) it would have fit correctly and not flared the metal shell out into the plastic retainer.

So keep an eye - that tool must go cleanly through those square holes - mine didn't fit well.

 

[Red Hot Sloth]

@jwilson2899 Thank you, I will for sure use be using that video as a guide when I do this.

We’re renting a 19’ travel trailer in a few weeks and I don’t want to tow it without a brake controller.
Im stoked that this forum has members who have and use such strong due diligence.
Thanks again everyone for your contributions.

 

[SloW8]

Wow, this is a great consolidation of other folks info along with your own. Thank you!

I have my Redarc and 001 harness in a box in the garage waiting for install. (I also have the 12v removal tool and used the lacquer stick to fill the letters.) Our new travel trailer has been delayed several months so I have been putting off the install.

I really like your mounting position and the bit of angle aluminum to help support the unit. I have looked under my dash a few times and haven't had the courage to screw into the supports, but your multiple pics give me confidence.

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