Winch install on Ecodiesel - cables?

[sbach66]

Howdy, picking up a winch late next week for the Ecodiesel, looking for tips/reccos on running the power cables up to the battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated (pictures even better). I know it's not a really complicated install, but I freely admit I'm not a "car guy" and want to make sure I get it right and I'm getting them in the best place in the engine compartment. Thanks in advance!

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[fourfa]

I didn't find it particularly complex, and I didn't pull the battery, fender, headlight or any other major components to do it. I've seen some suggestions that you should. And that was with fat, inflexible 1/0 cables not the skinny 2g that comes with most winches

Kinda top view of the battery. A lot of people go over the battery, making it harder to take the batt in and out if needed - I went around the back of the engine bay following the electrical raceway that’s already there. I used woven loom, taped down with electrical tape, and properly sized terminal covers so there’s no exposed +12V anywhere. You’ll also see my winch disconnect switch (BlueSea 6006) but that’s optional

Here the +12 and GND join a bunch of other wiring harnesses as they go forward along the passenger side edge of the engine bay

Here’s where those fat 1/0g wires drop down between the fuse box and fender

And where they drop under the corner of the fusebox and turn forward, to emerge under the grille

Do yourself a favor, add woven loom to everything coming out of the winch for abrasion resistance. Here you can see my +12V main (tiny bit of red visible) with loom on it. I skipped it on the blue, green, and yellow short lines from the contactor to the motor, and they’ve been rubbing on the bottom edge of the grille surround. There‘s a gap currently, because I bent the damned winch plate last week, but normally these rub a bit on the grille frame (and will again when I fix the plate - going to add loom when I repair)

 

[22EcoDs]

Passenger side between the front body mount between frame and radiator kind of.

 

[Jaxmax]

There is a forum member Steve (svc707) that sells 1/4” or 3/8” spacers for the bumpers that moves the bumper out a tiny bit to give more clearance for winch and cables, he advertises in the marketplace forum under exterior parts. I bought both sets when doing my winch but with homemade setup I did they were not needed so passed on to a friend. Not a bad idea to pick up at least the 1/4” when doing the winch…..Jack

 

[Lost1wing]

There is a forum member Steve (svc707) that sells 1/4” or 3/8” spacers for the bumpers that moves the bumper out a tiny bit to give more clearance for winch and cables, he advertises in the marketplace forum under exterior parts. I bought both sets when doing my winch but with homemade setup I did they were not needed so passed on to a friend. Not a bad idea to pick up at least the 1/4” when doing the winch…..Jack

I could have used the spacers. I have a slight rub as well. I inspect it every now and then and it still looks okay.

 

[SargeDiesel]

@ShadowsPapa has covered this in detail several times. Maybe he could chime in for you. Good luck with your project !

 

[fourfa]

covered this in detail several times

Probably not for the diesel, which has a very different engine bay layout. Air intake on opposite side, battery in back instead of middle, fusebox in front instead of back corner, different amount of space around everything

(I assume you'll know that based on the handle, but just for additional FYI)

 

[Camaroboi13]

My winch cables were too short to reach the battery in the back, so I ordered some extra cable on Amazon as well as an Anderson connection to lengthen the cables. I went up behind the radiator to get what I needed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

A lot depends on the bumper and the winch plate you use (*or if the winch mount is part of a replacement bumper) as far as cable clearance up front.
I ran my cables along the frame until I could go up past the power steering electric pump, then between the air intake box and battery. Diesel may be different.
I found putting a trouble light under the truck on the right side then looking downward showed me possible paths.
Avoid heat, avoid moving parts like the EHPS (electro-hydraulic power steering pump which is electric, not belt driven) and away from belts and such.
The only place there may be chafing is where parts or the cable can move, wiggle or vibrate. Otherwise if it's strapped solidly to things like other cables, it's not going to be damaged, it's safe.

I had a double-whammy because I also needed to run cables for my snow plow.

Don't run them where they can rub on things or things can rub on them.
Always mount the ground cable either to the body/chassis ground, or to the top of the IBS on the main battery negative terminal. Never directly to the terminal itself, always on top of the Intelligent Battery Sensor.
You really really should run a switch or other disconnect of some sort. Either a big manual disconnect switch, or a solenoid rated for winches or manually disconnect it at the battery area.
This way you won't have full battery power to the front of the vehicle.

This is a simple switch - off, there's no power to the front bumper or winch. Reduced risk of fire from a short/ground.

In this case, it's an electric switch, a solenoid operated by a switch in the cab. Does the same thing, only instead of turning a big round red knob under the hood, you push a button in the cab.

This is a GAS powered Gladiator, but it still shows a possible route upward -
For the winch - there's the negative to the battery, positive to the solenoid, and snow plow power from the fuse. So there's 3 fat cables there, they go down past the steering pump to the frame and forward.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Probably not for the diesel, which has a very different engine bay layout. Air intake on opposite side, battery in back instead of middle, fusebox in front instead of back corner, different amount of space around everything

(I assume you'll know that based on the handle, but just for additional FYI)

Yeah, I was just talking about the basics. Fitment and actual hook-up (battery/cut-off)... not necessarily cable routing... but good call/catch.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah, I was just talking about the basics. Fitment and actual hook-up (battery/cut-off)... not necessarily cable routing... but good call/catch.

Yes. specifics will be different. But the general gist of things the same. Pick a clear spot for cable paths, what to avoid and so on.
The diesel layout is quite different by necessity.

Keep cable runs as short as possible, avoid heat sources like exhaust pipes and manifolds, avoid spinning or moving parts. Strap the cables frequently.
Copper work hardens meaning if it shakes and vibrates, the copper gets "stiffer" and less flexible. It can crack or break at terminals. So strap it to keep it from vibrating. Choose a spot where the factory ran cables if possible.
Switch/disconnect/solenoid as close to the battery as practical.
Keep cables high on frame rails or similar parts to avoid rocks or even just road debris like tree branches that can jump up in between things and grab wires or cables.

 

[sbach66]

Thanks everyone, a lot of great info there, I appreciate it!

 

[charliez]

Whatever you do, make sure you put a manual switch inline, so the power can be disconnected when not in use. The cables are large and if they ever short, it will be very bad. I've seen too of one instance where someone did not install a switch, and somehting in his glove box pressed againt the switch to enable the remote and the winch started pulling in and destroyed his bumber and mount.

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