Rubicon, would installing the "open hood vents" improve cooling when towing?

[JET_83]

If it made a significant difference, it would be done at the factory. Jeep engineers did a lot to be able to make that 'best in class' towing claim. Almost all the overheating reports are coming from those with the diesel engine.

Ironic that what a diesel is made to do it can’t without the overheating issue that the gasser doesn’t have to worry about

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[Labswine]

When towing with my Overland (3.73 gearing, stone stock with trailer package), I am towing an ~5,100 lb 27' travel trailer (with all we use/need to go camping, fresh water tank empty...add abut 250 lbs when that is full) and just me and my wife, some water, and snacks in the truck.

I check the temps on the 'Off Road' page and even when it's 95 degrees out, temps are only about 10 to 20 degrees warmer than when not towing anything. Coolant is usually around 195 degrees without towing. Towing, around 215 degrees in stop and go, 205 when running. Oil and transmission follow suit.

 

[Divided_Wood]

My view is that if opening the hood vents materially improved cooling (especially on the diesel), FCA would’ve done it from the factory.

 

[Marlinvx]

I towed a 24ft x 7.5ft ceiling enclosed trailer with two Polaris rzr 900s in it from Illionois to KC, MO. No temp problems. 10mpg at 65 mph. With a Sport S max tow, so no hood vents.
Only problem, gladiator just isn't big enough. When semis passed, it would blow me all over the road. No braking or power issues, just a footprint problem.

 

[MaysvilleStig]

I tow frequently at high altitudes and extreme inclines in the mountains, at interstate speeds. I also have a full engine, transmission, t-case, and gas tank belly skid system. I frequently tow for miles at 4k rpm’s, on long ascents. Never have I been able to get the engine or tranny to even reach 50% on the temp gauge. 40% is probably the max I’ve hit. You’re fine. It’ll handle it fine.

Can confirm, Colorado tow'er here and my experience has been the same. The 3.6 just works.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Can confirm, Colorado tow'er here and my experience has been the same. The 3.6 just works.

Combined with good cooling and that 8 speed, it definitely does. It’s not a ram, but if towing an appropriate trailer for this truck, it has no cooling problems I’ve experienced.

 

[kevman65]

These supposed tests on YT are all about clicks and look what I did.
This is just like the ones I've seen for Ford and others - but at least the one guy doing the test on Ford was brutally honest and said -
unless you run with your engine over 5,000 RPM - why bother?

They can't simulate real conditions on a dyno. There's no air flow - they are sitting there with the under-hood temperatures climbing without the benefit of the flow of air on the road.
Further - many of these guys are talking gains at RPMs you'll rarely ever see.
I've watched the tests of cold air intake, different filters and other changes on some of these YT videos and sitting on a dyno in a room and running at the RPMs they are running.
This guy has fans in front - still not like on a highway. Air flow, air pressures, will be a lot different driving it, hood closed, on the road.

And like said - you can't throw in parts and make another dyno run and say hey lookie! Great!
These guys are trying to sell product or legitimize their "discoveries".
Do we drive at 3,000 RPM? Do we even drive with 2500 RPM? Unless they can show an intake that gives me 5 to 10 more HP in the 1500-2500 RPM range - what good is it?

Test under-hood temperatures with and without vents is another animal - drive it, real driving.
But - if there's no problem, isn't even that a solution looking for a problem?

Did you bother to watch BOTH videos all the way through?

Because your reply suggests you didn't.

The first video was ENTIRELY about a handful of temperature differences between using stock hood vents and using the product.

The gentleman was very thorough, with temperature sensors in the same locations for both tests. He did his best to duplicate the conditions to have as close of an exact comparison.

His results, which he logged on computer graphs, show that the product used produced a cooler intake, engine, and oil temperature than a stock configuration Jeep Gladiator Rubicon. Last time I checked, you don't own one.

But go ahead and rail about the video with the dyno runs only, because you think there were smoke and mirrors involved there. Even though I threw in a disclaimer before hand because it WAS done incorrectly.

Sometimes I think you feel if you put in enough paragraphs people will overlook the fact that you aren't discussing the question in hand. Has NOTHING to do with dyno results and EVERYTHING to do with lowering engine operating temps.

And another thing, just because it works great for you in Iowa, does NOT mean it works great for people in other parts of the country. Take your damn blinders off once in a while.

 

[RiverMtnBeach]

I tow frequently at high altitudes and extreme inclines in the mountains, at interstate speeds. I also have a full engine, transmission, t-case, and gas tank belly skid system. I frequently tow for miles at 4k rpm’s, on long ascents. Never have I been able to get the engine or tranny to even reach 50% on the temp gauge. 40% is probably the max I’ve hit. You’re fine. It’ll handle it fine.

Came here to say the same. I'd be really surprised to hear about overheating issues (unless you have an idiot dealer tech forget to put your coolant cap back on like what happened to me once). I've towed 6,500+ lbs up a long grade at ~4K RPM in 115 degree heat and no issues. The gauge is useless, use the temp display screens. Transmission varies far more than coolant temp.

 

[kickingaz]

Howdy All,

Thanks for the replies. Like I said I don't plan on doing any heavy towing or doing it on a regular basis. My main concern is that after installing the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates that they will have a tendency to hold some heat in the engine compartment and under the truck; this in all probability WON'T be a problem but with that in mind I thought of installing the vented hood kit but don't want to introduce crude through the vents into the engine compartment.

So until or "IF" I notice a heating problem I won't consider doing the vented hood scoops, just wondered what others thought or had done. Again thanks for the replies.

Dave

I am looking at the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates for my Rubicon Diesel as well. Did you notice any additional heating issues after installing these? I am in AZ where we have higher than normal temps to begin with. I just don’t want to but skid plates to eliminate one issue and create another. Thanks!

 

[Labswine]

I am looking at the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates for my Rubicon Diesel as well. Did you notice any additional heating issues after installing these? I am in AZ where we have higher than normal temps to begin with. I just don’t want to but skid plates to eliminate one issue and create another. Thanks!

From what I've read both here and other boards, the 3.0L Eco-diesel needs all the help it can get when it comes to cooling. Stone stock diesels have overheated while towing and as a result, the PCM throttles them back to barely move...I've read 25 mph max until they cool down (meaning pull over and let the engine temps drop back). I've also seen (anecdotally) the Eco-diesels becoming Car-b-ques from overheating while towing in high heat situations.

Having said that, I'd leave well enough alone for max air flow around your engine and it's cooling components, especially seeing as you're in Arizona.

 

[kickingaz]

From what I've read both here and other boards, the 3.0L Eco-diesel needs all the help it can get when it comes to cooling. Stone stock diesels have overheated while towing and as a result, the PCM throttles them back to barely move...I've read 25 mph max until they cool down (meaning pull over and let the engine temps drop back). I've also seen (anecdotally) the Eco-diesels becoming Car-b-ques from overheating while towing in high heat situations.

Having said that, I'd leave well enough alone for max air flow around your engine and it's cooling components, especially seeing as you're in Arizona.

I will do much more off-roading than towing, thus the reason for the skid plates. I plan on installing vented inner fenders that will allow the heat to escape from the engine bay as well. I believe the DV8 fronts have the most venting, but I al considering Motobilt as well.

 

[Ferg]

I've used my '21 JTR to tow my 20' GeoPro all over the mountains out west and through the desert, plus lots of places here in Texas and I've never, ever had a problem with overheating.

 

[Rusty PW]

From what I've read both here and other boards, the 3.0L Eco-diesel needs all the help it can get when it comes to cooling. Stone stock diesels have overheated while towing and as a result, the PCM throttles them back to barely move...I've read 25 mph max until they cool down (meaning pull over and let the engine temps drop back). I've also seen (anecdotally) the Eco-diesels becoming Car-b-ques from overheating while towing in high heat situations.

Having said that, I'd leave well enough alone for max air flow around your engine and it's cooling components, especially seeing as you're in Arizona.

Not every one is like that.

 

[mr. cob]

I am looking at the M.O.R.E. engine oil pan/ transmission, and transfer case skid plates for my Rubicon Diesel as well. Did you notice any additional heating issues after installing these? I am in AZ where we have higher than normal temps to begin with. I just don’t want to but skid plates to eliminate one issue and create another. Thanks!

Howdy Scott,

I have only driven my Jeep about 300 miles since installing the skid plates and I have NOT yet used it to tow anything so I honestly can't say if they made any difference as regards engine cooling. Based on what others have said I am not going to worry about it. The M.O.R.E skid plates are heavy but they give a LOT of coverage with out having the whole bottom of the rig covered, I think they will do great job of protecting the drive-train

Dave

 

[sarguy1941]

The M.O.R.E skid plates are heavy but they give a LOT of coverage with out having the whole bottom of the rig covered, I think they will do great job of protecting the drive-train

Remember those heavy skid plates drop your tow rating that heavy amount....

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