What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[west_bymidwest]

Got some new tires, 33x10.5r17, and let me say the reviews are true—the Kenda Klever R/T are the best tires I’ve ever had.

Ride quality is on par with the stock Bridgestones that come on the Overland. I had a pair of new C rated Fallen Wildpeak ATs before these and couldn’t stand how rough they were. I put less than 300 miles on them before picking these Kendas up. Although these are E rated, the ride quality and noise levels are much more close to stock levels compared to the Wildpeaks

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[Volksparts]

Received my new wheels and had them mounted today on my previous tires. Was not sure how I was going to like them but now totally stoked I have them. Also tried with and without the rash rings. I really only want to run the rings on the trails so that for normal use I am not pooling water behind the rings. Oh and also set the air deflator valves to air down to 16psi and put a little tire shine on.

 

[USMC_1Wire6337]

Received my new wheels and had them mounted today on my previous tires. Was not sure how I was going to like them but now totally stoked I have them. Also tried with and without the rash rings. I really only want to run the rings on the trails so that for normal use I am not pooling water behind the rings. Oh and also set the air deflator valves to air down to 16psi and put a little tire shine on.

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Definitely better with the rings than without.

 

[mx5red]

Got rid of a clunk, and got my LCA skid to fit with my Clayton FAD skid.
I’ve been having a clunk when switching forward/reverse, couldn’t figure it out but assumed from either loose LCA bolts from the Rock Hard skids, or other control arm bolts from putting the spacer lift and geometry brackets on. Also tightened the drag link and tie rod ends, which I could grab and rotate a degree or two and make them clunk.
That’s normal “play” for those, right?

The bolt on the LCA skid went like a whole turn or more before hitting 190. And the upper frame bolts on the geometry brackets tightened a little as well. All others still in spec.

for the skid plates, I’m sad I didn’t do this sooner. Only took me ten mins to cut with the angle grinder.
The Rock Hard bolts are pretty long, so I had to notch the Clayton skid to make room for the bolt. Did that in place with a dremel.

 

[Mister Lamb]

Installed a BOLT hood lock that works with my OEM key. Small mod that gives me a little more peace of mind. Kudos to BOLT for the ingenuity. Super easy install.

Harbor Freight brand hand riveter worked great for the 1/4" rivets.

 

[Rusty PW]

Got rid of a clunk, and got my LCA skid to fit with my Clayton FAD skid.
I’ve been having a clunk when switching forward/reverse, couldn’t figure it out but assumed from either loose LCA bolts from the Rock Hard skids, or other control arm bolts from putting the spacer lift and geometry brackets on. Also tightened the drag link and tie rod ends, which I could grab and rotate a degree or two and make them clunk.
That’s normal “play” for those, right?

The bolt on the LCA skid went like a whole turn or more before hitting 190. And the upper frame bolts on the geometry brackets tightened a little as well. All others still in spec.

for the skid plates, I’m sad I didn’t do this sooner. Only took me ten mins to cut with the angle grinder.
The Rock Hard bolts are pretty long, so I had to notch the Clayton skid to make room for the bolt. Did that in place with a dremel.

I had to do the same thing. I have a Rockhard FAD skid plate with the Rockhard LCA skid plates. I notched the FAD to fit and cut the bolt down.

 

[Scrubb84]

Finished up my aux battery delete this morning. Everything is running fine and am happy with it.

This is exactly what I want to do. I do have some questions tho. Do you jump n1, n2, & n3 together? Is there a thread just for this exact way of doing it? Ive been searching & reading threads for hrs, but keep finding the aux battery replacement threads. Ughhh

 

[OffAxis2021]

Man, I really wish I had a need for the ARE bed cap. That looks so good. Very nice looking JT overall.
I COULD go rescue a couple of big dogs! Hah.

???

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I need to make it a tad larger and re-position the screw holes.

Don't forget to radius the corners to match the bed cover!

 

[justjoe]

Upgraded my 7” screen to the 8.4”. Couldn’t find a JT radio on the marketplace so I bought a brand new one from Benny @AllMoparParts.com . Very happy with the upgrade.

Does your guardian work? or the assist features like unlocking doors from the app?

 

[Hootbro]

This is exactly what I want to do. I do have some questions tho. Do you jump n1, n2, & n3 together? Is there a thread just for this exact way of doing it? Ive been searching & reading threads for hrs, but keep finding the aux battery replacement threads. Ughhh

Jumper N1 and N3.

I have not seen a complete A to Z step thread on this. Just random threads touching on it. I have attached a block diagram that I found and added my notes with arrows of what to remove and add.

 

[Scrubb84]

Jumper N1 and N3.

I have not seen a complete A to Z step thread on this. Just random threads touching on it. I have attached a block diagram that I found and added my notes with arrows of what to remove and add.

View attachment 266005

Thankyou very much. I want to eliminate all the extra wiring when I remove the aux batt like you did. I was assuming that N1 & N3 would need power from somewhere after doing so, but you jumped them together without adding a power lead to either one, is this correct? I’m also assuming you have no dummy light or codes.
sorry for the dumb questions. Just trying to understand it %100 before I go ripping everything out.

 

[f33d]

Does your guardian work? or the assist features like unlocking doors from the app?

Out the box it will not work. You need to match up the vin to the radio and I believe a cellular harness

 

[f33d]

Added some oracle flush tail lights and a set of the oracle led reverse lights.

 

[justjoe]

Out the box it will not work. You need to match up the vin to the radio and I believe a cellular harness

thank you

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