AEV 2” spacer lift, is it really that easy to install?

[Hoss]

I am about to pull the trigger on the AEV 2” spacer kit, is it really as easy to install as people make it out to be? I stopped by a shop today and was quoted $750, alignment included, but I would rather not spend $750 if I don’t have to lol.

For those who have done it, was it really as simple as what I am reading online makes it seem?

TIA!

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[chorky]

Easy is subjective....

You still should loosen all the control arm bolts so that they can be torqued at their new angle once spacers are installed. Torking nearly 200 lb-ft can be hard on the ground.

 

[REDcrabman]

I torqued mine using mechanical advantage. Get the wrench all set and place your factory jack on the handle and crank until you get the torque pop. Works like a charm??

 

[Not2Late]

I am about to pull the trigger on the AEV 2” spacer kit, is it really as easy to install as people make it out to be? I stopped by a shop today and was quoted $750, alignment included, but I would rather not spend $750 if I don’t have to lol.

For those who have done it, was it really as simple as what I am reading online makes it seem?

TIA!

I recently installed the AEV 2" lift (Mojave specific) on my JT. Third time I have installed a lift kit on my garage floor - both were the 2.5" AEV dual sport kits on JKs. So it is very doable. The internet always makes it look easier. I took me about 10 hours to install the 2" AEV spacer lift. Mostly because I needed to track down a spring compressor, and at my age that hard cold concrete floor really soaks into my bones! The rear springs fall out easily enough, but I dropped the front axle about as far as I could without removing brake lines and still could not get the springs back in with the 2" spacer added. You want the spring compressor that works for strut springs (attaches to the outside and not inside the spring).

The AEV instructions are decent enough - but they skip a few things like not mentioning a spring compressor would be needed to make things so much easier. Some tips I learned:

• An impact (air or battery) really helps with loosening the suspension bolts
• Have a really good set of jack stands that are for trucks/SUVs - higher lift
• You'll need a higher lift range floor jack as well: to get the vehicle up high enough to set the floor jacks under the frame so you can lower the axles; and to be able to reach the mid point of the front axle as the pumkin is offset. If you lower the front using the front pumkin, the axle comes down unevenly and it is a pain when dealing with the springs
• Getting the brake line brakets off of where they are pinched onto the brake lines is a lot harder than they make it look (two sets of pliers/channel locks and simply bend...). I had to use a little dremel metal cutting wheel to score the metal braket to get it to bend off of the encapsulated brake line. Like surgery - was worried my hand would slip and I would nick the brake hose
• For safety's sake, lay the tires/wheels you take off under the frame as an added catch
• You want to make sure you wait until the vehicle is back under its own weight to torque the suspension bolts. This is a real pain working around the wheels. What I did was set each end (axle) back down on a set of jack stands at the same height it would be sitting at as if was on wheels so the weight was on the suspension. I then torqued the bolts and put a dab of white auto touch-up paint across the nut/frame area to be able to see if they loosen at all. You should still recheck the torque after 100 miles or so

Also, there really isn't any alignment that can be done in the traditional sense. You have to recenter the stearing wheel by adjusting the drag link - lots of videos on how to do that. Just be sure you are actually adjusting the drag link and NOT the tie rod. HAHA - ask me how I know

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

Easy is subjective....

You still should loosen all the control arm bolts so that they can be torqued at their new angle once spacers are installed. Torking nearly 200 lb-ft can be hard on the ground.

Yup. Lifts like this are not technically difficult to install. The issue is that it can be physically demanding. I.e. I’ve got a bad back. As a result, I won’t be crawling around under my JT and Installing a lift like I would have if I was 20 or 30, pre-back issues.

My two cents…if you’re up for it (physically and you have the time)…go for it. Otherwise, pay someone that you can trust to do the work for you.

 

[Klicht87]

I installed this spacer lift by myself. This is my first jeep and first time i've done suspension work like this. Make sure you have all of the tools-wrenches, sockets, torque wrench, etc... I did it in my driveway and put each end on jack stands. I used a spring compressor for the rear because there seemed to be quite a bit of tension on the brake lines.

As far as time, it took me most of the day. As someone stated above, the hardest part is getting darn near 200ft-lbs of torque on the control arms. Take your time, follow the directions, and be safe wrench under the truck while it's jacked up and it's doable, even with little experience.

 

[chorky]

I recently installed the AEV 2" lift (Mojave specific) on my JT. Third time I have installed a lift kit on my garage floor - both were the 2.5" AEV dual sport kits on JKs. So it is very doable. The internet always makes it look easier. I took me about 10 hours to install the 2" AEV spacer lift. Mostly because I needed to track down a spring compressor, and at my age that hard cold concrete floor really soaks into my bones! The rear springs fall out easily enough, but I dropped the front axle about as far as I could without removing brake lines and still could not get the springs back in with the 2" spacer added. You want the spring compressor that works for strut springs (attaches to the outside and not inside the spring).

The AEV instructions are decent enough - but they skip a few things like not mentioning a spring compressor would be needed to make things so much easier. Some tips I learned:

• An impact (air or battery) really helps with loosening the suspension bolts
• Have a really good set of jack stands that are for trucks/SUVs - higher lift
• You'll need a higher lift range floor jack as well: to get the vehicle up high enough to set the floor jacks under the frame so you can lower the axles; and to be able to reach the mid point of the front axle as the pumkin is offset. If you lower the front using the front pumkin, the axle comes down unevenly and it is a pain when dealing with the springs
• Getting the brake line brakets off of where they are pinched onto the brake lines is a lot harder than they make it look (two sets of pliers/channel locks and simply bend...). I had to use a little dremel metal cutting wheel to score the metal braket to get it to bend off of the encapsulated brake line. Like surgery - was worried my hand would slip and I would nick the brake hose
• For safety's sake, lay the tires/wheels you take off under the frame as an added catch
• You want to make sure you wait until the vehicle is back under its own weight to torque the suspension bolts. This is a real pain working around the wheels. What I did was set each end (axle) back down on a set of jack stands at the same height it would be sitting at as if was on wheels so the weight was on the suspension. I then torqued the bolts and put a dab of white auto touch-up paint across the nut/frame area to be able to see if they loosen at all. You should still recheck the torque after 100 miles or so

Also, there really isn't any alignment that can be done in the traditional sense. You have to recenter the stearing wheel by adjusting the drag link - lots of videos on how to do that. Just be sure you are actually adjusting the drag link and NOT the tie rod. HAHA - ask me how I know

side bar question - so with the shocks installed, are the rear springs able to unseat themselves if the suspension is fully drooped? That's a question that came up in another thread. So basically wondering if limit straps are necessary.

Darn. I forgot about the spring compressor being needed - figured with the shocks disconnected droop would be enough to let the front springs just unseat. Ugh....looks like, for me anyway, gonna have to pay somebody to do the work :-(

 

[dcmdon]

side bar question - so with the shocks installed, are the rear springs able to unseat themselves if the suspension is fully drooped? That's a question that came up in another thread. So basically wondering if limit straps are necessary.

Darn. I forgot about the spring compressor being needed - figured with the shocks disconnected droop would be enough to let the front springs just unseat. Ugh....looks like, for me anyway, gonna have to pay somebody to do the work :-(

It shouldn't be any different from stock.

You put a 2" spacer in with the spring.
You add a 2" extension to the shock mount.

The shocks limit the down stroke and the springs should be just as compressed or uncompressed as stock.

 

[Hoss]

I recently installed the AEV 2" lift (Mojave specific) on my JT. Third time I have installed a lift kit on my garage floor - both were the 2.5" AEV dual sport kits on JKs. So it is very doable. The internet always makes it look easier. I took me about 10 hours to install the 2" AEV spacer lift. Mostly because I needed to track down a spring compressor, and at my age that hard cold concrete floor really soaks into my bones! The rear springs fall out easily enough, but I dropped the front axle about as far as I could without removing brake lines and still could not get the springs back in with the 2" spacer added. You want the spring compressor that works for strut springs (attaches to the outside and not inside the spring).

The AEV instructions are decent enough - but they skip a few things like not mentioning a spring compressor would be needed to make things so much easier. Some tips I learned:

• An impact (air or battery) really helps with loosening the suspension bolts
• Have a really good set of jack stands that are for trucks/SUVs - higher lift
• You'll need a higher lift range floor jack as well: to get the vehicle up high enough to set the floor jacks under the frame so you can lower the axles; and to be able to reach the mid point of the front axle as the pumkin is offset. If you lower the front using the front pumkin, the axle comes down unevenly and it is a pain when dealing with the springs
• Getting the brake line brakets off of where they are pinched onto the brake lines is a lot harder than they make it look (two sets of pliers/channel locks and simply bend...). I had to use a little dremel metal cutting wheel to score the metal braket to get it to bend off of the encapsulated brake line. Like surgery - was worried my hand would slip and I would nick the brake hose
• For safety's sake, lay the tires/wheels you take off under the frame as an added catch
• You want to make sure you wait until the vehicle is back under its own weight to torque the suspension bolts. This is a real pain working around the wheels. What I did was set each end (axle) back down on a set of jack stands at the same height it would be sitting at as if was on wheels so the weight was on the suspension. I then torqued the bolts and put a dab of white auto touch-up paint across the nut/frame area to be able to see if they loosen at all. You should still recheck the torque after 100 miles or so

Also, there really isn't any alignment that can be done in the traditional sense. You have to recenter the stearing wheel by adjusting the drag link - lots of videos on how to do that. Just be sure you are actually adjusting the drag link and NOT the tie rod. HAHA - ask me how I know

Wait, I need a spring compressor? This is the first that I have heard about that, I was under the impression that it could be done without that. I have done a lot of risky stuff in my life, including using a spring compressor, they still scare the shit out of me lol.

Can you tell me more about not needing an alignment? Because this isn’t the first time that I have heard that, and I am confused by it. Is it a solid axle thing?

 

[Biggy]

Wait, I need a spring compressor? This is the first that I have heard about that, I was under the impression that it could be done without that. I have done a lot of risky stuff in my life, including using a spring compressor, they still scare the shit out of me lol.

Can you tell me more about not needing an alignment? Because this isn’t the first time that I have heard that, and I am confused by it. Is it a solid axle thing?

You don't need a spring compressor if you loosen the trackbar and control arm bolts. This will allow you to get enough flex to install the spacer. It's really not difficult

 

[Not2Late]

Wait, I need a spring compressor? This is the first that I have heard about that, I was under the impression that it could be done without that. I have done a lot of risky stuff in my life, including using a spring compressor, they still scare the shit out of me lol.

Can you tell me more about not needing an alignment? Because this isn’t the first time that I have heard that, and I am confused by it. Is it a solid axle thing?

The spring compressors scare me too! But if you get a good one - some auto parts stores will actually let you borrow one - and use it properly, you should be good. I think the job could be done without one, but with a lot more struggle. Again the rear can be done ok without them, but the front is the real pain. And having to hold the spacer on top of the spring while trying get it in (while also making sure everything was indexed properly) was when I finally broke down and used the compressors.

Yeah, the alignment thing is due to the solid axles. Basically little to adjust (unless something is bent or worn) except toe and centering the steering. Caster can be adjusted through changing the length of the lower control arms. Raising the jeep changes the caster (adds negative) and sometimes people add longer lower control arms or a special "geo" correction bracket (AEV also sells them) to get it back to where it was before the lift. The literature says it is not needed on a 2" lift, but I used one anyway and it helped. Too much negative caster causes a vehicle to drift more when going down the road.

 

[Vtur]

You don't need a spring compressor if you loosen the trackbar and control arm bolts. This will allow you to get enough flex to install the spacer. It's really not difficult

This is correct. Undo the trackbars and remove the bolt at the axles end while it's on the ground though. The whole axle will droop straight down.

 

[REDcrabman]

Blown

You don't need a spring compressor if you loosen the trackbar and control arm bolts. This will allow you to get enough flex to install the spacer. It's really not difficult

yep, if you need more space on one side or the other lift up the opposite and it gives you an inch to slip the spring in. The instruction from AEV are excellent.

 

[dcmdon]

It's also not like using a spring compressor to change a strut on a macpherson strut car.

It sounds like you only need to compress it by an inch or two if you do use it.

 

[Camaroboi13]

Spring compressors are not necessary. When I did my spacer lift, I didn’t even loosen the track bar OR the control arms. On my rear now I have 3” spacers on top of stock springs and did not loosen the track bar. Just removed shocks, end links, brake lines and loosen LCAs. The front now has 4” springs with half inch spacers on top, no compressor used. I had my axle down far enough to rest the driveshaft on the crossmember.
An impact like a 20v DeWalt helps immensely. 18, 21, and 23mm sockets and wrenches should get 90% of the work done.

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