What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Puch]

?

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[TotallyReasonable]

I installed the springs and track bars from my Clayton lift a while ago, but with a newborn I’ve been having trouble finding time and energy to get out and finish installing the front control arms I have. Well today was that day, beautiful outside and the perfect temp to be working in the garage. Got the control arms on with little problem. Wish I did it sooner because now it’s driving even better, like it’s gliding on the roads now. I will be getting the rest of the Clayton control arms in the future.

 

[XJFanatic]

Been busy getting my TJ ready for a PCS to FT Bliss this summer. But had a chance to give the JT some love. Got some JKS Discos from a buddy. Threw them on this evening. After that the JT wanted to assert its dominance.

 

[Jeep-of-Eli]

Mounted 37x11.5R17 Nitto Recon Grappler on stock 2020 Mojave

Here’s the details:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...con-grappler-37x11-5r17-on-2020-mojave.69183/

 

[CDNGladiator]

Did the aux battery delete today.

Interesting, haven't heard of this yet? Can I ask why? Thanks

 

[chorky]

Interesting, haven't heard of this yet? Can I ask why? Thanks

The aux battery is known for going bad and taking the main with it if not replaced soon enough. It's also (to some) unnecessary, and a major pain to get to. The ESS system can be disabled, or run off of the starting battery. It's just an unnecessary component that causes more issues than its worth (opinion). Theres a bunch of discussion on it in various places here. One thing to keep in mind though is somewhere in 2021 or early 2022 there was a change in the design of the harness. So that makes a difference on what method of removal is used.



Theres several different methods to get rid of it. Although @Hootbro I wasn't aware of totally removing a portion of the harness - I may have to look at that to clean things up a little. Currently my aux bat + is on the main + now ant it's kinda awkward.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Because he could? his reasons, he'll have to respond as to why in his case.

Others have some misconceptions about things, fear because they read crap on the web and are afraid.

If you don't use or don't care about ESS, or are concerned about the aux battery going south on you, then there are options.

I'm more of the "let 'er ride" type, extremely unlikely to do this, but others see the reports of bad batteries, troubles out away from home, whatever, and like more simple systems.

BTW - even the batteries in the 4xe Jeeps go bad very often - typically 2 to 3 years max life, sometimes less.
So is it the aux battery taking it down? Hell no. The 4xe doesn't even have an aux battery - for that matter a 4xe doesn't even have an alternator.
So the myth about "the aux battery always kills the main battery" is bull crap. The main battery fails just as often. Proof is the 4xe line of Jeeps. There's no aux battery but the main batteries fail equally as often as in the non-4xe Jeep.

For this mod, there's no compelling reason - it's mostly personal preference sort of like why some people do other mods, while some don't.

Other possible or potential reasons could be - Jeep batteries (MAIN and/or AUX) fail more often in Jeeps that other batteries fail in other vehicles. So when one fails, if you choose to replace it with a better battery, say an Optima, NAPA or some other brand, you can keep the system very simple this way.

Sometimes it's about making it how you want it, how you wish to use it, or whatever reasons are important to the owner/driver.

The aux battery is known for going bad and taking the main with it if not replaced soon enough

Don't tell me you buy into the YT and forum "experts" bs about that.
We've shown that the main battery goes as often. And a bad battery doesn't necessarily take out another. It depends on how they fail. The main can and often does go first but because Jeep people have been crying this from the tops of the mountains for so long, it's become the de facto thing even though we can show otherwise.

Explain how come so many batteries in the 4xe have been going bad in just about 2 years (typical or average). There's no aux battery.
Can anyone prove it's not the main battery going bad and taking out the aux battery? Or are we repeating what we've read in forums?

Worse yet is the "fact" out there that when one goes bad, you can't possibly start the Jeep - which is also false. It MAY happen if the battery develops a short internally, but I, and others, have shown that you can simply jump start them in almost every case.

For some, it could be they want to avoid that slim chance that it does happen in that way. So they are making sure they aren't one of the very few it happens to. And it's few - but the internet makes it look like everyone.

 

[Hootbro]

One thing to keep in mind though is somewhere in 2021 or early 2022 there was a change in the design of the harness. So that makes a difference on what method of removal is used.

Change was how the grounds were terminated and laid on the main battery Intelligent Battery Sensor (current sensor). 2020 and maybe some early 2021 models, the aux battery ground piggy backed on the main battery ground and could be removed independently leaving the main battery ground attachment on the IBS intact.

With 2021 and up models, they reversed it. When I did the delete and wire removal for my 2021 Willys and removed the aux battery ground, I had to modify the terminal that went to the IBS. This time on my 2022 Rubicon, I just took the aux battery ground and left the IBS end intact and ran the aux battery ground side to the vehicle ground point on the fender with the main battery ground.

Popping the hood and a quick visual, there is no physical indication it has been deleted.

As to why? @chorky mentioned the main points. I like to know when I eventually start having battery or other electrical issues, I am only troubleshooting from the point of dealing with one battery and not a "what came first, chicken or the egg?" of dealing with a dual battery in parallel circuit. ESS will still work in this config but is not ideal. It is advised to run a ESS eliminator module as I do already.

The mod is not for the timid or those worrying about still being in warranty and are risk adverse. I assume that risk doing this while still in warranty.

 

[chorky]

Because he could? his reasons, he'll have to respond as to why in his case.

Others have some misconceptions about things, fear because they read crap on the web and are afraid.

If you don't use or don't care about ESS, or are concerned about the aux battery going south on you, then there are options.

I'm more of the "let 'er ride" type, extremely unlikely to do this, but others see the reports of bad batteries, troubles out away from home, whatever, and like more simple systems.

BTW - even the batteries in the 4xe Jeeps go bad very often - typically 2 to 3 years max life, sometimes less.
So is it the aux battery taking it down? Hell no. The 4xe doesn't even have an aux battery - for that matter a 4xe doesn't even have an alternator.
So the myth about "the aux battery always kills the main battery" is bull crap. The main battery fails just as often. Proof is the 4xe line of Jeeps. There's no aux battery but the main batteries fail equally as often as in the non-4xe Jeep.

For this mod, there's no compelling reason - it's mostly personal preference sort of like why some people do other mods, while some don't.

Other possible or potential reasons could be - Jeep batteries (MAIN and/or AUX) fail more often in Jeeps that other batteries fail in other vehicles. So when one fails, if you choose to replace it with a better battery, say an Optima, NAPA or some other brand, you can keep the system very simple this way.

Sometimes it's about making it how you want it, how you wish to use it, or whatever reasons are important to the owner/driver.



Don't tell me you buy into the YT and forum "experts" bs about that.
We've shown that the main battery goes as often. And a bad battery doesn't necessarily take out another. It depends on how they fail. The main can and often does go first but because Jeep people have been crying this from the tops of the mountains for so long, it's become the de facto thing even though we can show otherwise.

Explain how come so many batteries in the 4xe have been going bad in just about 2 years (typical or average). There's no aux battery.
Can anyone prove it's not the main battery going bad and taking out the aux battery? Or are we repeating what we've read in forums?

Worse yet is the "fact" out there that when one goes bad, you can't possibly start the Jeep - which is also false. It MAY happen if the battery develops a short internally, but I, and others, have shown that you can simply jump start them in almost every case.

For some, it could be they want to avoid that slim chance that it does happen in that way. So they are making sure they aren't one of the very few it happens to. And it's few - but the internet makes it look like everyone.

YT? Not sure what that references?

Poking the bear early this morning I see... Pretty sure you said yourself in some thread 6 months ago that the aux battery being bad can cause the main to go bad over time - and your previous gladiator had major charging/battery issues for a long time. But whatever that doest matter - aux, main - the point being one being bad or not charging fully/correctly can damage the other in time. Emphasis on can. Many people remove them because it is a possibility, others remove them because they just dont want a little aux, others remove them for the purpose of installing the Genesis system, others remove them because they just can.

I personally removed mine for 2 reasons - 1) install of the Genesis system, and 2) I hated the idea of that tiny aux battery and its complications and just wanted it gone. In hindsight knowing now that my summer plans changed as much as they did, I would have only gone with point 2, and not done point 1 - but didnt know at the time I would have opportunities for three 5 day trips this summer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As to why? @chorky mentioned the main points. I like to know when I eventually start having battery or other electrical issues, I am only troubleshooting from the point of dealing with one battery and not a "what came first, chicken or the egg?" of dealing with a dual battery in parallel circuit. ESS will still work in this config but is not ideal. It is advised to run a ESS eliminator module as I do already.

The mod is not for the timid or those worrying about still being in warranty and are not risk adverse. I assume that risk doing this while still in warranty.

This makes sense for you and fits what little I know about you.
In your case, I get it - you are assuming one risk in exchange for negating another.
Troubleshooting a simple 1 battery system is easy, but should be less likely to be necessary if you have changed to a non-MOPAR tagged battery.

I assume that the ESS would still be limited to 6 cycles because it keeps detecting identical voltages across N1 and N3. But in your case - doesn't matter/you don't care.

 

[chorky]

Change was how the grounds were terminated and laid on the main battery Intelligent Battery Sensor (current sensor). 2020 and maybe some early 2021 models, the aux battery ground piggy backed on the main battery ground and could be removed independently leaving the main battery ground attachment on the IBS intact.

With 2021 and up models, they reversed it. When I did the delete and wire removal for my 2021 Willys and removed the aux battery ground, I had to modify the terminal that went to the IBS. This time on my 2022 Rubicon, I just took the aux battery ground and left the IBS end intact and ran the aux battery ground side to the vehicle ground point on the fender with the main battery ground.

Popping the hood and a quick visual, there is no physical indication it has been deleted.

As to why? @chorky mentioned the main points. I like to know when I eventually start having battery or other electrical issues, I am only troubleshooting from the point of dealing with one battery and not a "what came first, chicken or the egg?" of dealing with a dual battery in parallel circuit. ESS will still work in this config but is not ideal. It is advised to run a ESS eliminator module as I do already.

The mod is not for the timid or those worrying about still being in warranty and are risk adverse. I assume that risk doing this while still in warranty.

Hmm I'll have to go back and look at mine today then and see if I can trace some of those wires without tanking things out. It would be nice to remove some excess stuff that is not needed.

 

[Hootbro]

This makes sense for you and fits what little I know about you.
In your case, I get it - you are assuming one risk in exchange for negating another.
Troubleshooting a simple 1 battery system is easy, but should be less likely to be necessary if you have changed to a non-MOPAR tagged battery.

I assume that the ESS would still be limited to 6 cycles because it keeps detecting identical voltages across N1 and N3. But in your case - doesn't matter/you don't care.

Pretty much this. There is no right or wrong in somebody choosing or not choosing to do the mod. It is just assuming what risk either way you want to put up with.

 

[Tufelhundin]

Been busy getting my TJ ready for a PCS to FT Bliss this summer. But had a chance to give the JT some love. Got some JKS Discos from a buddy. Threw them on this evening. After that the JT wanted to assert its dominance.

The TJ doesn’t look happy about this display of dominance at all!

 

[Hootbro]

Hmm I'll have to go back and look at mine today then and see if I can trace some of those wires without tanking things out. It would be nice to remove some excess stuff that is not needed.

Just be warned you need to pull the whole fuse panel out and the battery tray to get access to the wires that run to the PCR relay.

It is not hard if you take your time and just follow back where everything goes that you want to eliminate.

Doing my 2021 Willys, it took maybe almost 4 hours taking my time. Doing my 2022 Rubicon, it went about 3 hours worth of work.

 

[chorky]

Just be warned you need to pull the whole fuse panel out and the battery tray to get access to the wires that run to the PCR relay.

It is not hard if you take your time and just follow back where everything goes that you want to eliminate.

Already did all that when installing the Genesis system. It's not really a big deal at all. I just left the wires in place when doing that then - but it would just be nice to remove excess un-used wires.

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