What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[WILDHOBO]

‘I believe they offer both amber and black covers..

Nice. I have amber, black, and clear covers for my KC’s. The amber is on most of the time.

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[smlobx]

Are those for igniting zombies ahead of you? Wowza

The great thing about these ARB’s as opposed to the Baja Designs LP6 is that the kit comes with a button that allows you to adjust the intensity on the go. The pictures I showed were on their max brightness.

 

[johnchabin]

We threw together a frame for the ski racks… the extrusion has t-slots, but I need to add a spacer so they sit level.

Will get me up the hill next week. ?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Extended my rear ABS sensor wires to match the length of my extended brake lines. I detailed the process in a thread about this.

 

[NGNERD]

Took the stock Rubicon Fox shocks off and replaced with new Fox 2.0 at 70k miles, nicer ride and helped with the body roll, still some there but not experienced enough with shocks to give a more detailed review. Will stick with these Fox 2.0 going forward.

 

[DanW]

Took the stock Rubicon Fox shocks off and replaced with new Fox 2.0 at 70k miles, nicer ride and helped with the body roll, still some there but not experienced enough with shocks to give a more detailed review. Will stick with these Fox 2.0 going forward.

I am a big fan of the Fox 2.0 shocks on my JL. I´ve felt them after very long all-day hard off-roading in Moab and they remained cool to the touch, so those aluminum shock bodies really dissipate heat well. One of those runs, btw, puked out two of the cheap Pro-Comp shocks my buddy had on his JK. Thatś why I felt the temp on mine. His shocks that lost their lunch were hot to the touch.

 

[22EcoDs]

I ordered the cheapest 175$ headliner I could, going to supplement with Amazon sound deadening. Also ordered redarc liberty and a screen protector for the 8.4. Will let y'all know how the headliner does. https://www.extremeterrain.com/redrock-4x4-jeep-gladiator-hard-top-insulation-kit-j165754.html?utm_content=XT Tops - Accessories|RedRock&T5_Var4=JG16110

Headliner front panels are in. The kit actually appears to include the JL parts as well ? Idk it came with two extra panels. Will see how it sounds. Amazon deadening sticks well , hopefully it helps.

 

[1JeepFamily]

Installed Wolfstorm's front bumper yesterday. Solid bumper with a retro-tube look to match my Paramount Automotive rock sliders. Mounting the winch next.

Update: getting there... hoping to finish winch install today (2/3/24). Gotta rig up some sort of relay management platform under the hood for my AUX lights and the winch's battery disconnect switch.

Fished. Side note: is it normal to hear a slight "click" when I open and close my hood—or did I short something/is something touching the hood that shouldn't?

Here's what it looks like with the hoops closed:

 

[jeepers29]

There ya go ^^. Note that is a Synergy track bar also

The synergy grey gave it away. LOL Looks good.

 

[HooliganActual]

Hit the 30K mile mark today. Did a oil and air filter change out. Had some mixed orphaned quarts to use up and I am sure that will Rustle the Jimmies of a few pearl clutchers around here.

Not a "pearl clutcher" here but I'll share some thoughts to anyone willing to listen. I worked in the oil industry for years, specifically the manufacturing of aftermarket automotive fluids. I can tell you things like a) a gallon of water, a capful of HEET, and a couple drops of blue dye is all that window washer fluid is and b) I'll agree that "parts is parts" when it comes to oil. We would fill Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline, you name it from the same mixed batch of oil and additives.

We literally put 600 different labels on 150 formulations, which means that the only difference between various bottles was the label and color of cap/bottle. But that "150 formulations" is where it starts to get trickier; sure, the difference between some of those "formulations" was just the viscosity modifier that made it a 10W-40 versus a 5W-40. HOWEVER, and this is the nub of my gist, it's the rest of the add pack that can be worrisome if mixed together. Certain oil brand's want this additive or that additive to distinguish their product from the other. Sometimes, one brand's additives don't play well with another brand's additives and can cause reactions that will break down the oil.

I would never mix synthetic with non-synthetic, but most people would probably guess that intuitively. But I'd be real cautious mixing other oils together because you don't know whether their additives will be disagreeable with each other. I'd be more comfortable mixing two weights of the same oil together versus the same weight from two different brands...

 

[1JeepFamily]

I don’t see a weight on the site. Is it pretty heavy?

69 pounds ?

 

[aldo98229]

Installed Wolfstorm's front bumper yesterday. Solid bumper with a retro-tube look to match my Paramount Automotive rock sliders. Mounting the winch next.

Nice! I am not a fan of aftermarket bumper, but that looks clean and simple!

Reminds me of a fabricator that existed years ago in the Los Angeles area called Olympic 4X4. They were big in the days of YJs, XJs and TJs. Their bumpers were simple, strong and affordable.

 

[Hootbro]

Not a "pearl clutcher" here but I'll share some thoughts to anyone willing to listen. I worked in the oil industry for years, specifically the manufacturing of aftermarket automotive fluids. I can tell you thinks like a) a gallon of water, a capful of HEET, and a couple drops of blue dye is all that window washer fluid is and b) I'll agree that "parts is parts" when it comes to oil. We would fill Quaker State, Pennzoil, valavoline, you name it from the same mixed batch of oil and additives.

We literally put 600 different labels on 150 formulations, which means that the only difference between various bottles was the label and color of cap/bottle. But that "150 formulations" is where it starts to get trickier; sure, the difference between some of those "formulations" was just the viscosity modifier that made it a 10W-40 versus a 5W-40. HOWEVER, and this is the nub of my gist, it's the rest of the add pack that can be worrisome if mixed together. Certain oil brands want this additive or that additive to distinguish their product from the other. Sometimes, one brands additives don't play well with another brand's additives and can cause reactions that will break down the oil.

I would never mix synthetic with non-synthetic, but most people would probably guess that intuitively. But I'd be real cautious mixing other oils together because you don't know whether their additives will be disagreeable with each other. I'd be more comfortable mixing two weights of the same oil together versus the same weight from two different brands...

I am sure everything you just said there is true and I agree with it. For the record, I do put out there what I did as anything for anybody to emulate or say it is a best practice.

That being said, on the grand scheme of things, the one off here or there of a mix oil change is not going to make a red pubic hair measurement of difference over the lifecycle of any engine. For any modern API and/or ILSAC oil to gain those certs, they have to be mix compatible.

I have never been brand loyal and generally follow the guidelines of keeping my oil changes with the same grade and meeting vehicle maker spec requirements. Very rare for me to mix brands or grades for a particular oil change interval, but like this occasion, I do not sweat using up some orphaned quarts to clear out some garage shelf space once every 2-3 years.

At my current rate of racking on mileage and doing 5K change intervals, I will probably update my running oil analysis thread in 2-3 months with this current mix when I have it also analyzed. Pretty sure I will be in universal average.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...nalysis-5k-mile-oci.70504/page-2#post-1224054

 

[1JeepFamily]

Edit: $149? Holy smokes!

Right!? That's cheaper than most winch plates! I felt the price alone was worth the risk of any potential lack-of-quality. But everything—from the packaging and welds to the spare fasteners and installation guide—was nothing but quality.

 

[HooliganActual]

I am sure everything you just said there is true and I agree with it. For the record, I do put out there what I did as anything for anybody to emulate or say it is a best practice.

That being said, on the grand scheme of things, the one off here or there of a mix oil change is not going to make a red pubic hair measurement of difference over the lifecycle of any engine. For any modern API and/or ILSAC oil to gain those certs, they have to be mix compatible.

I have never been brand loyal and generally follow the guidelines of keeping my oil changes with the same grade and meeting vehicle maker spec requirements. Very rare for me to mix brands or grades for a particular oil change interval, but like this occasion, I do not sweat using up some orphaned quarts to clear out some garage shelf space once every 2-3 years.

At my current rate of racking on mileage and doing 5K change intervals, I will probably update my running oil analysis thread with this current mix when I have it also analyzed. Pretty sure I will be in universal average.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...nalysis-5k-mile-oci.70504/page-2#post-1224054

I get it. I used to run an oil analysis lab and was a Certified Level 2 Tribologist (not that that's worth the price of a cup of coffee). I used to bring my car oils in and analyze them every 1000 miles until I was comfortable I had enough history to understand what was going on inside and then would just pull samples for analysis at every oil change. Interesting side note: it turned out that the point where I would "make the call" based on sample results; was almost always at around when the "scheduled oil change" was due.

I agree with what you've said and again, not pearl clutching (lol), just trying to share with others that don't know what you know. I mean, I watch your posts about performing oil analysis and such, so already I realize you are not the average consumer of this info.

Again, I'm sure you are aware of the following diatribe but I'm sharing for others that may not: OEM's (and that's not just car manufacturers) tend to recommend a specific oil because it's really not reasonable for them to test their widget with every possible brand of oil that is or will be out in the marketplace. There was a time when they said it had to be Brand "X", but after the Magnussen Moss Warranty Act some manufacturers (not car manufacturers) got in a pinch and lost some lawsuits which basically said that if you are going to claim that it has to be Brand "X", then you have to provide Brand "X" to the consumer. It was a bit of a mess. So then they started making generalized statements like "5W-20" and leaving the brand out of it. On the industrial side we still see manufacturers calling out "Shell Rotella 5W-40 or comparable", which is kind of nice because that typically indicates what oil they did their development and testing on.

I also agree with you, that most oils are going to play nice with each other but one concept to think about is "are you making one quart better or the other quart worse". I know that statement may be a bit esoteric for some but think about mixing a gallon of 93 octane gas with a gallon of 85 octane gas...did you make one gallon better or one gallon worse? It really depends on if you have a car that needs a minimum 91 octane or not.

Since I retired, I've gotten into bread making. Sometimes I use bread flour (higher protein content than all purpose flour) and sometimes I use a 50/50 mix of bread flour and all purpose flour; it depends on what the desired outcome is. The various automotive oils are similar in a way, slightly different but essentially the same. Just try to be informed on what you are mixing.

EDIT: I literally loved the use of "pearl clutching" becuase my wife and I use that term all the time...LOL

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