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Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug

Lost1wing

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I hope my brother never reads this. He couldn't change oil on his own car, yet he worked at a dealership oil change bay. It was one of the two things he was allowed to do. The other was a transmission oil change. He didn't last long maybe 6 months. I cannot even imagine the damage he caused and the loss that dealer took on his behalf.

I was doing my own oil changes way before that. When I bought my first car, I was given 2 free oil changes. Living in an apartment and my only tools were at work, I took advantage of the freebies. Thenone day I was out of the freebies and had to have my oil changed before a road trip. Stopping at JiffyLube for a quick in and out, which it was, it turned out to be a mistake. After driving 750 miles, I walked into a store for some groceries. While walking out, staring at my new car, I noticed an irregularly on my hood. At closer inspection, it looked like a dent, from the inside. I opened the hood and saw my oil cap resting on the HO intake manifold and the threads slightly damaged from the hood.

To shorten the story. JiffyLube paid for another oil change and the repair on the hood. The colors never matched after that. Lesson learned!
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Hootbro

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I plan to replace the oil pan at next oil change, did a deep dive on RTV sealant vs gasket. I leaning towards using a Fel-Pro gasket. Any thoughts?

IMG_1563.jpeg
I think that is inviting more problems.
 

Hootbro

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?
Your idea/reasoning please. I'm curious as to why...........
RTV and bolts torque to spec form a sealed bond once cured. This type of gasket that the vehicle was not designed around is that you have to play around with torquing that either does not over torque it and squeeze the gasket material out and dealing with leaks or under torque and dealing with leaks.

Most modern applications that use this type of gasket usually have spacer inserts in the pan holes to limit over torquing.

If this gasket is like the differential cover gaskets that is rubber coated over a metal skeletal formed frame, it may work but I do not think that is the case here.

Edit: Also looks like that part number is for the older non PUG engines.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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RTV and bolts torque to spec form a sealed bond once cured. This type of gasket that the vehicle was not designed around is that you have to play around with torquing that either does not over torque it and squeeze the gasket material out and dealing with leaks or under torque and dealing with leaks.

Most modern applications that use this type of gasket usually have spacer inserts in the pan holes to limit over torquing.

If this gasket is like the differential cover gaskets that is rubber coated over a metal skeletal formed frame, it may work but I do not think that is the case here.
OK, gotcha.
just wondering.
Not a problem for me - maybe for others.
I'd use the same torque I do for other pans.
But most would likely use the torque from the specs and have issues.
 

Hootbro

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OK, gotcha.
just wondering.
Not a problem for me - maybe for others.
I'd use the same torque I do for other pans.
But most would likely use the torque from the specs and have issues.
I also edit my last post. That gasket is for the older engines. We have a 12 bolt pattern oil pan.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I hope my brother never reads this. He couldn't change oil on his own car, yet he worked at a dealership oil change bay. It was one of the two things he was allowed to do. The other was a transmission oil change. He didn't last long maybe 6 months. I cannot even imagine the damage he caused and the loss that dealer took on his behalf.

I was doing my own oil changes way before that. When I bought my first car, I was given 2 free oil changes. Living in an apartment and my only tools were at work, I took advantage of the freebies. Thenone day I was out of the freebies and had to have my oil changed before a road trip. Stopping at JiffyLube for a quick in and out, which it was, it turned out to be a mistake. After driving 750 miles, I walked into a store for some groceries. While walking out, staring at my new car, I noticed an irregularly on my hood. At closer inspection, it looked like a dent, from the inside. I opened the hood and saw my oil cap resting on the HO intake manifold and the threads slightly damaged from the hood.

To shorten the story. JiffyLube paid for another oil change and the repair on the hood. The colors never matched after that. Lesson learned!
Besides this, I was doing transmission work (automatics and manual), engine rebuilding, body work and more.

Jeep Gladiator Dealership crossed threaded oil drain plug me-shop-1974
 

ShadowsPapa

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I also edit my last post. That gasket is for the older engines. We have a 12 bolt pattern oil pan.
LOL - so much for my attention to detail!
 

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All my oil changes have been done by me. I have never had a problem. If we cannot produce people that can change oil then we have a problem.
 

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It's always been more convenient for me to change the oil in my jeeps.
I hated having my old ford sitting at the dealership all morning just for an oil change. Even the 'free' ones.
I switched to the fumoto on my old jku when I got the rock hard skids.
For the jt, I switched to a pump extractor. At first, I used the extractor and then pulled the plug to get the last drops. Now I don't even bother with the drain plug any more. Just extract and refill.
Though I do go to the jiffy lube to drop off my oil for recycling.:CWL:
 

ShadowsPapa

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For the jt, I switched to a pump extractor. At first, I used the extractor and then pulled the plug to get the last drops. Now I don't even bother with the drain plug any more. Just extract and refill.
I hope you are doing much more frequent changes since you are leaving a lot in the pan, including anything that the oil's detergents allowed to drop out of suspension.
...........these are so bloody simple to change oil in - with drain plug or a valve..........
 

Rockabillyroy

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I hope you are doing much more frequent changes since you are leaving a lot in the pan, including anything that the oil's detergents allowed to drop out of suspension.
...........these are so bloody simple to change oil in - with drain plug or a valve..........
there's very little in the pan. That's why I stopped pulling the plug. 🤣

I agree, this as a simple as it gets.
 
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Thanks for the input guys. I plan to change the oil pan and use ThreeBond RTV per Mopar this fall. I think I can put down a good bead, but I’m sure the factory bead was put down by a robot.
 

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A u tube of the Pentastar being built is out there somewhere .
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