Oil - going from 0w20 to 0w40

[Stan H]

I'm an old man who has cranked wrenches to make things work with out knowing the book smarts as to why. I have great respect for those who have acquired that knowledge and are willing to share with others. Thank you.
So, lets get to the bottom line. I have a 2023 Gladiator with 7700 miles. Is it better to start using 5W30 oil now, or stick with the 0W20 specified by the manufacture? Thanks again..

These engines were engineered for 0W-20 ,I have 128 thousand miles on mine and runs just fine...change oil every 5-6k and filter at 50% on the oil life meter.
I suggest staying with 0w-20

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[NorthCountry]

These engines were engineered for 0W-20 ,I have 128 thousand miles on mine and runs just fine...change oil every 5-6k and filter at 50% on the oil life meter.
I suggest staying with 0w-20

Thank you, 0W20 it is. How I learn so much more from a direct response..lol..Safe Travels

 

[Hootbro]

Thank you, 0W20 it is. How I learn so much more from a direct response..lol..Safe Travels

Do not be afraid though if you have a jug of 5W-30 laying around to throw it in. Perfectly fine.

 

[NorthCountry]

Do not be afraid though if you have a jug of 5W-30 laying around to throw it in. Perfectly fine.

Noted, thank you..

 

[Fishpilot]

I changed my 0w-20 oil to 0w-30 last week. I know it might the “placebo effect,” but the engine seems to be smoother and quieter. I’ve been watching the oil pressure and oil temps, they seem to be the same as when 0w-20 was used.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm an old man who has cranked wrenches to make things work with out knowing the book smarts as to why. I have great respect for those who have acquired that knowledge and are willing to share with others. Thank you.
So, lets get to the bottom line. I have a 2023 Gladiator with 7700 miles. Is it better to start using 5W30 oil now, or stick with the 0W20 specified by the manufacture? Thanks again..

To add....... The engine was greatly modified in 2015 to operate on 0w20. The phasers, VVL system, all it it down to the timing chain. API also engineered the oil to meet such needs. No reason at all to change.
Personally, I will also never mix oil chemistries. It has been proven to reduce wear protection in some cases. It's a gamble. Many win, but some will contribute to faster wear. I pick an oil and tend to stick with it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I changed my 0w-20 oil to 0w-30 last week. I know it might the “placebo effect,” but the engine seems to be smoother and quieter. I’ve been watching the oil pressure and oil temps, they seem to be the same as when 0w-20 was used.

There's only one part of any 3.6 I've owned that could be quieter and oil won't help their injector sounds. There's times I forget it's running so smooth and quiet.

 

[Watrmel0nBandit]

I changed my 0w-20 oil to 0w-30 last week. I know it might the “placebo effect,” but the engine seems to be smoother and quieter. I’ve been watching the oil pressure and oil temps, they seem to be the same as when 0w-20 was used.

Team 0w30 for the win! I noticed the same when I switched mine a few thousand miles ago to the same weight. I went with HPL and it’s been great so far.

 

[NorthCountry]

To add....... The engine was greatly modified in 2015 to operate on 0w20. The phasers, VVL system, all it it down to the timing chain. API also engineered the oil to meet such needs. No reason at all to change.
Personally, I will also never mix oil chemistries. It has been proven to reduce wear protection in some cases. It's a gamble. Many win, but some will contribute to faster wear. I pick an oil and tend to stick with it.

Thank you for your responses. I obviously don't drive much, but when I do, its a long distance back to the North Country. Always looking for a little piece of mind in the wisdom of others. Thank you.

 

[Hootbro]

Team 0w30 for the win! I noticed the same when I switched mine a few thousand miles ago to the same weight. I went with HPL and it’s been great so far.

HPL is good stuff

 

[Swisskidd]

HPL is good stuff

While I've never used HPL, I'd venture to say that it is notably more robust than the typical off the shelf 0W30. And yes - I've read nothing but great reviews/opinions about HPL.

Strictly comparing oils by their advertised grade can quickly become very convoluted. I've used M1 5W30 Silver Label and it sheared to a 20 grade within 1500 miles. OTOH the M1 5W30 ESP kept the advertised KV100 after 3000 miles (and was more robust to begin with). With that in mind, I've started to pay attention to the Porsche C30/A40/C40 spec oils. No matter which grade oil one decides to use, I'd pick the best shear stability , with the highest HTHS index.

I see myself out now..........

 

[ShadowsPapa]

With that in mind, I've started to pay attention to the Porsche C30/A40/C40 spec oils.

Porsche - they have one of the worst engines for shearing oil to water. The motor oil geek even mentioned them specifically when talking about oil being ripped to shreds. All of their chains and such - if an oil can survive those engines, it will survive our 3.6
Some engines are just a lot harder on oils than others, in the shear aspect.
Porsche engineered an oil shredder, now have to spec oil that can withstand it.

 

[Swisskidd]

if an oil can survive those engines, it will survive our 3.6

You're making my point. I don't think the chain driven quad OHC in the 3.6 is necessarily easy on oil. And since to my understanding, the valve train (rollers/follower) are lubed by oil spray (not pressurized oil feed), I will aim at using oil with great shear strength.

 

[DanJT]

If I found a woman that compares to any of my Jeeps, she´d be the catch!

LOL!!! (Just kidding....maybe)

You mean a lot of maintenance?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You're making my point. I don't think the chain driven quad OHC in the 3.6 is necessarily easy on oil. And since to my understanding, the valve train (rollers/follower) are lubed by oil spray (not pressurized oil feed), I will aim at using oil with great shear strength.

Almost every valve train is splash oiled. Valve trains since the late 1800s have been splash or drip lubricated, not pressurized.
'Pressure' doesn't lubricate anyway.........

Mobil 1 is one of the oils with high resistance to being sheared to death. A PAO oil. There are other off-the-shelf oils just as good.

The chain in our engine is a lot different than in Porsche, and was actually redesigned (totally) for the PUG. It's not like the prior timing chain design. It's quieter as well.
A lot of things were done to accommodate the new oil viscosity specification. It was designed almost from scratch in many ways.

So - I'm not worried. I'll keep running the oils I run and the standard viscosity it calls for.
Most of the oil reports I see posted around show a viscosity that's not dropped out of range.
if someone comes up with an oil report with some concerning viscosity loss with the recommended oil, I might think a bit more.

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