Question for you on that............... 5 quarts, and that is an exact 5 quarts minus what won't drain out of a jug, puts my oil OVER full on the dipstick. It has done that on every JT I've had - 5 quarts means over the aluminum bit onto the cable itself, by at least 1/8" or more.
Yeah, thats what I kinda guessed.
Sorry, you can attribute that to any number of things, including the oil he uses, the reduced miles between changes, HOW the thing is driven, the RPM and engine loading involved, the fact that some engines will just show less wear than others because of what we call a stackup of tolerances where some wear earlier than others, some will show the crosshatch pattern in the cylinder walls for 100,000 miles or more while for others it will be gone by then.
Way too many variables.
I have never had a startup rattle in any of my 3.6 engines, none of them. OTOH, I've had startup rattle in more of my other vehicles over the years simply because lash adjusters - lifters in other engines - may bleed down over time. How much is also a factor of many things such as oil, wear, temperatures, valve spring pressure, whatever.
I would bet that if every Jeep owner did an oil analysis, we'd find some others with the standard setup with very similar results.
For example, taken on a per thousand mile basis, some of my numbers come out awfully close to his - aluminum, for example, is identical per thousand. My copper is a bit less than his, my iron was higher, but all I can find at the moment is the analysis done at less miles than he has on his so I'd expect some higher results there as it was still in the low miles, breaking in period. Still, as the report said - it looked good, no worries, no alarms.
Is it a bad device? No - solidly made, gets rid of any chance of a brittle housing cracking at 80,000 miles, which is about the time many report they simply go bad. You can get filters pretty much anywhere, a bigger choice of filters, there are advantages to them. I don't talk people out of them, I see the allure, just don't rely on the marketing and the "dry start" stuff, or that it's going to absolutely prevent cam failure. There's no study, no data, to support anything either way, for one thing, cam failure isn't a given, and many millions of these go without a cam failure, all with the stock filter.
There is no way in the world to prove anything or disprove anything.
Do what you believe feels right - if you want one and it makes you feel better about it - go for it.
2020 but with only 22k miles 
I talked to my sales guy, who drives an FCA vehicle with 3.6 and it has about 80,000 miles and he made a comment about how his oil filter/cooler just started leaking - no one had touched it for a while and he was honest - "it cracked and started leaking like most of them do at that mileage".Yeah, thats what I kinda guessed.
@Hootbro also making it not so easy because the oils
I will likely change it before the plastic one fails
Nah, doubt it (also).
Stock, 5 quarts after waiting 5-10 minutes, level is at the top of the cross hatch section barely kissing the upper bulb part.Question for you on that............... 5 quarts, and that is an exact 5 quarts minus what won't drain out of a jug, puts my oil OVER full on the dipstick. It has done that on every JT I've had - 5 quarts means over the aluminum bit onto the cable itself, by at least 1/8" or more.
If you put in the 5 quarts, and an extra half quart (since these call for 5, and you say it adds an extra half quart capacity) where does it end up on your 3.6's dipstick?
