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Bent Axle or Blown Ball Joints/ Hub Bearing?

Zachanadandy

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I hate you guys sometimes... Y'all talked me into getting the HD60 from Currie and the BF sale pushed me to get the heavier duty axle.

According to Currie, the only thing I'll need to swap out is the driveshaft and tie rod. The steering stabilizer should mount up with a JK stud style track bar bolt. That should get me back on the road until I upgrade the steering to the new Apex Through Shaft Ram steering.

Should I do a separate thread on the front axle swap? I did not find very much information on it when I was researching my options.
Separate thread or share here, either way. Looking forward to seeing the progress.
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Splenda

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I hate you guys sometimes... Y'all talked me into getting the HD60 (stock brakes and steering) from Currie and the BF sale pushed me to get the heavier duty axle.

According to Currie, the only thing I'll need to swap out is the driveshaft and tie rod. The steering stabilizer should mount up with a JK stud style track bar bolt. That should get me back on the road until I upgrade the steering to the new Apex Through Shaft Ram steering.

Should I do a separate thread on the front axle swap? I did not find very much information on it when I was researching my options.
Cool! Are you going to swap out the rear axle too? If not, how will you handle the different lug patterns?
 

Zachanadandy

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Cool! Are you going to swap out the rear axle too? If not, how will you handle the different lug patterns?
Being stock brakes I'm guessing its the 60 that re-uses the unit bearings, knuckles, and brakes (basically the in Cs inward are new).
 
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tj3089

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Cool! Are you going to swap out the rear axle too? If not, how will you handle the different lug patterns?
Zach is correct, they use the stock components. That was one of the big reasons that I went with that particular hd60.

It should allow me time to save up for the rear 1 ton (semi float is fine with me) when they go on sale next year for Black Friday.

*Edit - please don't judge me for the 27 tabs of jeep 1 ton swap research 😆

Jeep Gladiator Bent Axle or Blown Ball Joints/ Hub Bearing? Screenshot_20251105-003617
 
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tj3089

tj3089

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Seems pretty beefy

Jeep Gladiator Bent Axle or Blown Ball Joints/ Hub Bearing? Screenshot_20251125-143304


Jeep Gladiator Bent Axle or Blown Ball Joints/ Hub Bearing? Screenshot_20251125-143233
 

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Zachanadandy

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Seems pretty beefy

Screenshot_20251125-143304.webp


Screenshot_20251125-143233.webp
That graphic is misleading. The stock axle tube pictured is from a standard JL axle with 7mm tubes. The JT and XR package JLs get the 10mm tubes which is slightly thicker than the Currie at .395".
 

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I hate you guys sometimes... Y'all talked me into getting the HD60 (stock brakes and steering) from Currie and the BF sale pushed me to get the heavier duty axle.

According to Currie, the only thing I'll need to swap out is the driveshaft and tie rod. The steering stabilizer should mount up with a JK stud style track bar bolt. That should get me back on the road until I upgrade the steering to the new Apex Through Shaft Ram steering.

Should I do a separate thread on the front axle swap? I did not find very much information on it when I was researching my options.
What did you spend on the Currie if you don’t mind me asking?
 
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tj3089

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What did you spend on the Currie if you don’t mind me asking?
7k shipped with taxes included. Plus the 1350 driveshaft at 800 and the tie rod at 350 (found a deal on the yeti).

So a little over 8k for a front 1 ton, bolt on swap. Not too bad, considering the time and labor savings. I'd rather play with my toddler than wrench all day right now. They only stay little for so long.

I'll keep the stock front axle for my wife's sport JLU after I get it straightened and trussed, of course. Then when I do the rear axle swap next year. I'll keep that axle for her Jeep as well. So she'll get front and rear lockers and 456 gears, which will be good enough for the 35s that we plan to run on her little 2.0T engine.

Jeep Gladiator Bent Axle or Blown Ball Joints/ Hub Bearing? PXL_20251029_175439625.PORTRAIT
 

bleda2002

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7k shipped with taxes included. Plus the 1350 driveshaft at 800 and the tie rod at 350 (found a deal on the yeti).

So a little over 8k for a front 1 ton, bolt on swap. Not too bad, considering the time and labor savings. I'd rather play with my toddler than wrench all day right now. They only stay little for so long.

I'll keep the stock front axle for my wife's sport JLU after I get it straightened and trussed, of course. Then when I do the rear axle swap next year. I'll keep that axle for her Jeep as well. So she'll get front and rear lockers and 456 gears, which will be good enough for the 35s that we plan to run on her little 2.0T engine.

PXL_20251029_175439625.PORTRAIT.webp
Jlu rear axle requires different bracketry FYI, it's doable but won't just be bolt on and may just be easier to sell yours and buy a take off that fits
 
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tj3089

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Jlu rear axle requires different bracketry FYI, it's doable but won't just be bolt on and may just be easier to sell yours and buy a take off that fits
I don't mind some fabrication if I have to, and have the time.
 

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Zachanadandy

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This $7k Dana 60 is exactly why I won't put a penny into the front axle of a JL/JT. You see guys out here with trusses, regear, added locker, skids, rcv shafts, knuckles, and ball joints all upgraded. They are $6k+ into the stock 44 that still has poor pinion angle/caster separation and is weak compared to what you just bought. I'd much rather run a smooth bottom 60 that likely has the same clearance as the 44 with a skid for the same money. Even if it was a grand more, it's still money better spent on my opinion.
 

Lost1wing

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After you put that Dana 60 in and hit another hole like you did before, I'm afraid you will find a new weak link. You might even break a more expensive axle. But I like it! I think that is the avenue I would take in your situation.
 

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This $7k Dana 60 is exactly why I won't put a penny into the front axle of a JL/JT. You see guys out here with trusses, regear, added locker, skids, rcv shafts, knuckles, and ball joints all upgraded. They are $6k+ into the stock 44 that still has poor pinion angle/caster separation and is weak compared to what you just bought. I'd much rather run a smooth bottom 60 that likely has the same clearance as the 44 with a skid for the same money. Even if it was a grand more, it's still money better spent on my opinion.
I agree, and wish I knew that in 2021. Live and learn. Maybe I’ll use my built axles for the Willy’s and switch mine out.
 
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tj3089

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After you put that Dana 60 in and hit another hole like you did before, I'm afraid you will find a new weak link. You might even break a more expensive axle. But I like it! I think that is the avenue I would take in your situation.
That will hopefully be the stock unit bearing that I am willing to sacrifice. I also plan on avoiding any future sink holes whenever possible, of course ;).

I am not a hardcore off-roader, more of an intermediate driver and I prefer to pick the right line the first time instead of throttling out or getting aggressive.

The HD60 will also give me better piece of mind when I am out in the middle of nowhere on a solo trip
 
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tj3089

tj3089

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See, nice and easy off-roading 😆.

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