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Another One Bites The Dust - Tick Of Death

Stan H

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I have always hit the button then 3 yrs ago got a Flashcal plus and just keep it turned off and I don't have to worry about the ASS anymore . It doesnt work for what I do anyway . I idle alot and then I dont idle alot.
Now hear me out. I live V-Twin motorcycles .
A Aluminum V-Twin motor needs to warm up you can NOT start a Vtwin and just take out . If you do the life of it will be significantly shortened.
These 3.6's are just a big V engine. And they need to warm up , I have 153,700 miles on my engine and I have NEVER EVER started it and as soon as the idle dropped took off. I have religiously started it and let it warm to a minimum of 150-170 minimum before moving out . Alot of time in the winter I will let it run for 20min or more because it warms slowly. When it achieves the correct temp I move out. Aluminum blocks swell and expand and everything tightens up into place .I feel this is a good habit. At least it has worked for me.
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DanW

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Lots of

It all depends on what you think the biggest contributor is to the problem. I think the dry start is the lesser of the evil; therefore, I choose to buffer viscosity drop with both a 5W30 and dump the oil every 4,000km.

If a person were to prioritize/identify dry starts as the problem... then it would be reasonable to install the Baxter oil filter system.

I forgot to add that I primarily hiway drive mtmy JT and have my auto start-stop disabled with my Tazer.

Hope that better explains my approach.
Yep, I think we´re all making our best educated guesses. But there´s always a bunc of them doing the things we think might be the cause and they run right past 200k miles with no problem. It´s a real head scratcher.

I have had the ESS disabled on my 2018 Wrangler since the Tazer first came out, which I think was at less than 2,000 miles on my Jeep. I´ll have to check. But I have almost never used it. I bought my Gladiator at 35k and put a Tazer mini in it right away. So for the last 35k, no ESS.

I wouldn´t use that even if it was guaranteed to have no ill effect. At a minimum, I don´t want it harming long term durability.
 
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Figmo

Figmo

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Have there been cam failure threads that poll for auto Stop/Start use?
I eliminated ASS first month I owned the truck. Yet....here I am....
 

KX L

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I notice a tick every now and then. Once the tick starts it will either stop when the engine has been driven at highway speeds---or it won't and go all day long. Then it can be weeks before is starts again.

Have the full warranty for 8 years or 85K miles so not worried if the engine does blow.

While I would much prefer to do the simple stuff like oil changes at home, when I bought the longer warranty I committed to using the dealership network for all recommended maintenance. In other words getting the MoparPlus warranty for under $2K meant spending even more to ensure no issues if something happens by using dealerships for recommended maintenance.

I've never really understood all the bitching about the ESS/ASS. :(
There is a button right on the console that turns it off. My routine is to get in the truck, ensure neutral and start it. Then I turn off ESS, turn on the auto cruise control, ensure the lights are on, and off I go. Turning ESS is just so simple and I think it makes me safer and more prepared to focus on driving. I forgot to turn it off the other day and was waiting behind some guy at a flashing yellow left turn, he went and just as I started to ease out the clutch it died and then quickly restarted.. scared the shit out of me.

My biggest concern is that I often have to start the truck to get it out of the garage and then stop it. And then later start it to put it back in the garage. Or start it and idle for what seems like FOREVER as the wife unit does whatever it is that women do when she says "I'm ready." I often feel like Lucy trying to kick the football in the Charlie Brown cartoons---I fall for every damn time. :angry:
 
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Labrat1970

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Mine went to 120k and then decided to do this. Right as I was planning a cross country trip. 😳🙄
I’m actually going to have a remanufactured motor put in with a 4 year warranty. That will be better than the original. Will cost me a few extra dimes but will be worth it to me. I like my Jeep.
 

montechie

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I’m actually going to have a remanufactured motor put in with a 4 year warranty. That will be better than the original. Will cost me a few extra dimes but will be worth it to me. I like my Jeep.
Which reman are you going with? What was changed to make it better? Just curious, I've enjoyed past performance remans in the 4.0s.
 

Labrat1970

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Which reman are you going with? What was changed to make it better? Just curious, I've enjoyed past performance remans in the 4.0s.
I will get the info from the mechanic doing the exchange and let you know. They are ordering it and doing the work next month.
 

Longspur

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I have a question for yall about the famous 3.6 tick. I have a 26 Willy’s with 4200 miles, every time I get in it first thing. Have a tick till it’s up to operating temp, then it’s quite as a mouse can be 40 degrees or 75. Coming from Tacoma’s I was thinking piston slap as I have experienced that on a couple of Tacoma’s. Not sure what to think.
 

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Jeepin Jake

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I finally got my truck back dealer had it for 2 weeks rebuilding the entire top end of the motor , cams , lifters all of it
I found it strange they didn’t pull an oil sample or change the oil but that’s on them as it’s still under warranty
Picked it up and drove it 128 miles and seems to run great 👍🏼 so far
 

Bandit’s Lair

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I have a question for yall about the famous 3.6 tick. I have a 26 Willy’s with 4200 miles, every time I get in it first thing. Have a tick till it’s up to operating temp, then it’s quite as a mouse can be 40 degrees or 75. Coming from Tacoma’s I was thinking piston slap as I have experienced that on a couple of Tacoma’s. Not sure what to think.
Im guessing the question is “Is this normal?”. The answer is “Yes”. Have to keep in mind that with the oil system the way it is you’re basically dry starting your engine every single time. It will tick a bit initially due to that. You also have a very new engine at 4200 miles. That can be part of it. It’s barely broken in yet. If it causes you concern look into the Baxter oil filter kit to reduce the dry run time by a bit and see if that fits your fancy. I wouldn’t yet though as you still have a LONG time left on your factory warranty.
 

Longspur

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Im guessing the question is “Is this normal?”. The answer is “Yes”. Have to keep in mind that with the oil system the way it is you’re basically dry starting your engine every single time. It will tick a bit initially due to that. You also have a very new engine at 4200 miles. That can be part of it. It’s barely broken in yet. If it causes you concern look into the Baxter oil filter kit to reduce the dry run time by a bit and see if that fits your fancy. I wouldn’t yet though as you still have a LONG time left on your factory warranty.
Yea I figured as much, seems every new vehicle ticks now days.
 

gobs

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Has anyone looked into Mopar extended warranty for the driveline? If you have what would the cost be? Also any idea what the cost of these repairs are at the dealer? Thank you
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