JT not holding value

[BLK HOLE]

I don’t agree that you do OTD pricing when compared. Since fees and states vary the only constant is agreed price.

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[danielspivey]

I don’t agree that you do OTD pricing when compared. Since fees and states vary the only constant is agreed price.

OTD price, minus the taxes is the only thing that matters. The dealer can adjust the fees to fit them. Fees very and this is how dealers get their money and make you think they have to charge you this and that!! Some dealers charge as much as 500 more in certain fees, and then cut you a “deal” only to be line with the market.

OTD is what you finance. It’s all that matters when sign at the bottom. Taxes are controlled by the where you live. Only way you control that is to move or live on an Indian reservation with a native wife

 

[BLK HOLE]

OTD price, minus the taxes is the only thing that matters. The dealer can adjust the fees to fit them. Fees very and this is how dealers get their money and make you think they have to charge you this and that!! Some dealers charge as much as 500 more in certain fees, and then cut you a “deal” only to be line with the market.

OTD is what you finance. It’s all that matters when sign at the bottom. Taxes are controlled by the where you live. Only way you control that is to move or live on an Indian reservation with a native wife

My wife is native lol

point is only constant for comparison is agreed upon price. After that taxes or whatever fees are varied and personal to your location.

 

[danielspivey]

My wife is native lol

point is only constant for comparison is agreed upon price. After that taxes or whatever fees are varied and personal to your location.

do y’all live on reservation? I love not paying sales taxes, real estate tax or personal property tax!

Fees vary dealer to dealer. Fees are the way a dealer makes money on new vehicles. My wife’s dad has been a car salesman since he was in his early 20s. Don’t ever think that fees are set in stone, they are often the things that get adjusted up and down in a deal the most.

As for taxes, I should have been more clear. Say the OTD price is 40,000 and the taxes in state A are 1000. That’s 39,000 for the vehicle not including the taxes.

Say you get the same vehicle in state B for 40,000 OTD, but the taxes were 2000. That’s 38,000 for the vehicle not including taxes.

In state A the dealer made more money even though the OTD was the same. In state B the average OTD for a vehicle is going to be 1000 more simply because the taxes are higher.

 

[BLK HOLE]

do y’all live on reservation? I love not paying sales taxes, real estate tax or personal property tax!

Fees vary dealer to dealer. Fees are the way a dealer makes money on new vehicles. My wife’s dad has been a car salesman since he was in his early 20s. Don’t ever think that fees are set in stone, they are often the things that get adjusted up and down in a deal the most.

As for taxes, I should have been more clear. Say the OTD price is 40,000 and the taxes in state A are 1000. That’s 39,000 for the vehicle not including the taxes.

Say you get the same vehicle in state B for 40,000 OTD, but the taxes were 2000. That’s 38,000 for the vehicle not including taxes.

In state A the dealer made more money even though the OTD was the same. In state B the average OTD for a vehicle is going to be 1000 more simply because the taxes are higher.

No we don’t haha

I don’t pay dealer fees. Maybe a “doc fee”.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

do y’all live on reservation? I love not paying sales taxes, real estate tax or personal property tax!

Fees vary dealer to dealer. Fees are the way a dealer makes money on new vehicles. My wife’s dad has been a car salesman since he was in his early 20s. Don’t ever think that fees are set in stone, they are often the things that get adjusted up and down in a deal the most.

As for taxes, I should have been more clear. Say the OTD price is 40,000 and the taxes in state A are 1000. That’s 39,000 for the vehicle not including the taxes.

Say you get the same vehicle in state B for 40,000 OTD, but the taxes were 2000. That’s 38,000 for the vehicle not including taxes.

In state A the dealer made more money even though the OTD was the same. In state B the average OTD for a vehicle is going to be 1000 more simply because the taxes are higher.

the fees here are the fees charged for registering a new title, etc, the rest is very very little as far as the "dealer fees" - the dealers in my area don't mess with the fees because there's not much to them. We aren't talking much at all for "fees". You might be negotiating to save 100 bucks if you argue about fees.
The corporate dealers around me all stick to MSRP. The others bargain on the "internet price" for what's on the lot. If you order it you MAY save a bit under MSRP but not a lot. Your best bargaining position is when you talk about one they have on the lot. Then they are willing to talk. But not a lot. You have to leave the Des Moines metro area.
I saved a couple grand only when I went to pick it up and said - Spencer up in Spirit Lake will do this for me - and threatened to walk back out the door and order from him, forfeiting a whopping $100 I'd put down. They were a bit nervous but finally agreed to come down some.
Deals and such are not everywhere, not every dealer, not every location. If they were, no one would be driving to these places listed in this forum to get deals. Their local dealers would be good enough. That proves you can't walk to every dealer and negotiate a much better price.
Spencer wouldn't be getting the orders he does if it was that simple. Fact is most won't budge much - that's why all the talk here! If it was so easy, no one would even mention the places a day's drive away.
Logic - if you can get a great deal anywhere by simply negotiating, then no one would drive from CO to IA or WI to IA to buy, they'd stay in their own state.

 

[jurfie]

When I bought my last vehicle, I called the dealer and said “I want to pay $XX,000. I don’t care how you get there, but that’s what I’m paying all in. If you can make that work, let me know when I can pick it up.”

 

[Rex3rd]

I hate all dealers. The entire model is crap.
Remove everything you can from their hands.

Don’t trade anything
Do own financing (give them a chance to beat it)
Order your vehicle
Only pay invoice or under

**nothing else follows** lol

I would like to imply (with exceptions of the amazing forum sponsors like @spenchey or @Travis@TriCityJeep . They are the true heros that make dreams come true)

 

[Factoid]

This thread is like an episode of the Outer Limits.

 

[Hootbro]

I only talk about out-the-door price with dealers, and then specifically ask what portion of that is tax. This is how I price shop to keep it apples to apples .

Trade in only comes up until I get a price I’m satisfied with.

I love slapping down a letter from the tribal government after the fact, and watch my payment drop because of the no sales tax.
The dealers always hate this for some reason even though it doesn’t affect them.

Never let a dealer focus the deal based on a payment. They always win in this scenario.

Also watch out got the bait and switch on financing. I’ve had this happen to me 3 times. Two times they increased the rate. I calculated the difference in the term and told them they had to eat the difference. This actually happened with the gladiator. Another time they held strong on the rate and I walked. Interest rate is another way dealers will make up for cost in the deal.

Actually it does affect the dealer after the fact when you throw down your tribal letter for the tax break. They negotiate with the intent of a certain finance price that would have included the taxes rolled in and possible higher SPIFF's paid to them from their preferred lenders.

 

[Onlyricko]

A dealer offer me 40k for my 54k MSRP overland ( I paid 49.5k ) with 2K mikes to trade in. I laugh and walk away LoL.

 

[Uparms]

I would not want to fairly evaluate JT value retention until 18-24-36-48 and later months/years Anything sooner then 18 months is gonna cost you. Id' say their offer was a good one. Just my 2 cents. Open to other ways to look at sooner resale and trade price evaluations you may have.....

My thoughts..
If they give us a 3-4 year model line and kill it, the JT holds a high value.
If they kill the line after 2 years, we have a value problem.
If the Gladiator model goes 4-5-6 or more years, we see the same value retention that the Wrangler has seen for decades, if not more.

Agreements?? Disagree??? Please share.

 

[12BNNT]

Just my penny worth of thoughts but you can kinda figure (at least I do) that you’re gonna lose 10% when you pull off the lot/register the vehicle. It’s no longer new. Some drop value more each year than others but overall Jeeps tend to hold a little better than most. That said, the OP’s truck had a sticker of 46k but said dealer is looking at the idea that if they were selling identical trucks new for 43k (plus their gimmicks that took it back to $46-47k) and you take 4-5k off that 43k it puts him at 38-39k trade value.

I’ve got a 17 JK that stickered at 34. Got it for 30k when the 18’s were starting to show up (and before I knew about below invoice options) it’s now basically 3 yrs old but because it’s previous gen it’s only worth 21k in trade. If they were still making the JK’s it might be holding a little more but not much. By the above 10% rule it’s value dropped to 27 the minute I pulled off the lot. It’d be foolish of me to expect to get what I paid for it because someone else paid 34 once. Cars are a luxury not an investment. Only exception is in exotics but not domestic cars. (Maybe a Demon that was picked up at the dealer with a flat bed that still has 1.8 miles on the odometer and plaque number 1 of xxx but even that would be just because of rarity with the plaque number and low number produced just like exotics) in general though cars are a tool to go from one place to another and what you buy/drive only matters to you as far as whether you want to do the trip as cheap as possible, in as much comfort and style as possible, or in our case take the scenic route through the woods with everything including the kitchen sink in tow.

 

[MarineHawk]

no with my trade after TTT, I only financed around 41k. I looked at the RUBIs but I wanted the max tow

That was my issue. I owed $11k or so on my jku they gave me $21k give or take a little.

I am confused by some of the comments on here.

I may be missing something, but it seems like the OP bought the JT for $51K, including TTT. He bought it for $51K; received a $21K credit for the trade-in; $11K of that went to pay off the old loan, and $10K of that went to reduce the cost of the new JT; and then ended up financing the remaining $41K. Or am I missing something?

 

[danielspivey]

Actually it does affect the dealer after the fact when you throw down your tribal letter for the tax break. They negotiate with the intent of a certain finance price that would have included the taxes rolled in and possible higher SPIFF's paid to them from their preferred lenders.

Good point, but that’s only if you finance with them. I rarely finance through the dealer because they usually can not come close to the rates of credit unions.

But the tax portion of your deal is such a small portion of the deal it’s not likely enough for the dealer to walk away from.

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