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Anybody carry a compressor in their JT?

ShadowsPapa

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Well, I'm learning a lot, which is always worth the price of opening a new thread. :LOL: It's obvious I'll have to come up with a better solution, my research will likely lead me to, direct connection to the battery or 12V interface. Seems like those are the two choices for a compressor that I've seen in this thread.
Some had mentioned getting a trailer harness end and powering a compressor through the 12 volts that goes to the big round trailer connector. No need to open the hood, no clips to corrode and eventually over the years, they often do.
I don't recall how that is fused, the load carrying capability, but it's likely far more than any 12v outlet inside the truck. If nothing else that trailer connector is closer to the rear tires than the battery is (unless like at least one member, you have an added battery sitting back there)
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Some had mentioned getting a trailer harness end and powering a compressor through the 12 volts that goes to the big round trailer connector. No need to open the hood, no clips to corrode and eventually over the years, they often do.
I don't recall how that is fused, the load carrying capability, but it's likely far more than any 12v outlet inside the truck. If nothing else that trailer connector is closer to the rear tires than the battery is (unless like at least one member, you have an added battery sitting back there)
Is something like this what you're talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpow...ocphy=9026808&hvtargid=pla-448499136667&psc=1
 

ShadowsPapa

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That is a turnkey solution and close. Didn't know those existed.
I was referring to buying the trailer connector, the plug end like on a trailer and putting ot on the compressor cable. Then just plug the compressor in to the round outlet at back of truck. Direct. Use the same plug on the compressor that the trailer uses. However that adapter linked to could be handy anyway.
 

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10 lb power tank for me. Way faster for airing up 37's with all the trails I do. Did I mention I got 3 more BOH's last week? 7 more on the future summer list.
 

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The single cylinder ARB is 30% more and not portable, at least at the pricing I could find. Throw in the cost of a mounting plate and the price diverges even more, let alone duplicating for another Jeep. The Smittybilt compressor airs up all four tires at once just fine, never gets to thermal overload even for two Jeeps worth of air. You pays your money, you takes your chances.
Agreed. I aired up 4 Jeeps without overheating, from 25psi to 35psi on 35-37" tires. Thing is a great value, under $200 on sale I believe when I got it.
 

PyrPatriot

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That is a turnkey solution and close. Didn't know those existed.
I was referring to buying the trailer connector, the plug end like on a trailer and putting ot on the compressor cable. Then just plug the compressor in to the round outlet at back of truck. Direct. Use the same plug on the compressor that the trailer uses. However that adapter linked to could be handy anyway.
Does an air compressor take more juice than a winch? I'm guessing not
https://www.etrailer.com/question-39745.html
 

BLK HOLE

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Agreed. I aired up 4 Jeeps without overheating, from 25psi to 35psi on 35-37" tires. Thing is a great value, under $200 on sale I believe when I got it.
I’ve seen it used in the field a lot. It’s a decent value but nothing is better than ARB. It’s simply worth it. Nickel and diming over it isn’t worth it IMO. I have both a single and dual (2 Jeeps) and they’re exposed to the elements under the hood and have never missed a beat in the years I’ve had them there, and to hear is bad. I air up 4 tires at a time and then often 4 more+ for friends.

Portable stuff is nice and all but it gets old loading crap up and it’s also a risk if you don’t strap them down.
 

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Does an air compressor take more juice than a winch? I'm guessing not
https://www.etrailer.com/question-39745.html
I can't believe anyone even asked that question for etrailer to have to answer it. Seriously. Look at even a 3,000 pound winch wiring, then look at the air compressors pictured in this thread and the battery clip leads. The gauge wire is a dead give-away.

There's duty cycle to consider, start-up current draw vs. running draw, a lot of factors.
But a winch is going to win every time unless you have a pretty hefty 12v compressor and a 2,000 pound boat winch.
Electric energy is measured in HP (well, AC current is, ok-fine, DC motors are measured in HPS) DC measure in watts. Volts times amps. Most consumer things are rated in peak HP so it's tough to directly compare, but using some math one can figure it all out.
 

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Some had mentioned getting a trailer harness end and powering a compressor through the 12 volts that goes to the big round trailer connector. No need to open the hood, no clips to corrode and eventually over the years, they often do.
I don't recall how that is fused, the load carrying capability, but it's likely far more than any 12v outlet inside the truck. If nothing else that trailer connector is closer to the rear tires than the battery is (unless like at least one member, you have an added battery sitting back there)

Trailer tow connector, F37, 30 Amp (if equipped)
 

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ttn333

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I have a little compressor like the smitty in my 4runner. Worked well for years, still running strong. Takes some time to air up all four 33" tires.
Now with Jeep on 37s, I installed the ARB twin with a 4 hose connection system to air up all 4 tires at once. This thing is quick! I'm more likely to air down with the Jeep than the 4runner since it's just so much quicker.
ARB twin is as good as it gets for this type of compressors. It does cost a lot more than my old portable.
 

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I carry a VIAIR 440p along with a Speedflate 4 tire inflation kit. It's been incredibly reliable for me, and it provides me the ability to pass this along to another rig in the group to air up. I had an onboard ARB in my previous rig, and went portable for that ability to pass along as it isn't always convenient to have someone pull up alongside to use an onboard system.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Trailer tow connector, F37, 30 Amp (if equipped)
30 amps is quite a bit of oomph.
So that wire going back there has to be 10 gauge. Pretty beefy.
I'd not try to run anything over about 25 because the starting draw would be more if it's a motor, etc. but still, that's quite a good load.
Thanks - now I have something to keep in mind as I accessorize :)
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