So disappointed in this Diesel platform; wish there was a return policy.

[CrazyCooter]

I'm a lot less concerned about the actual oil breaking down becuase like Bill points out above there are oils that will handle more heat.If I gotta guess, it's the piston temps that require the power nuetering as oil temps rise since they are surely cooled by oil jets?

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[biodiesel]

I'm taking oil samples at each oil change. I have my factory fill UOA and I'm about to pull another sample. Most forums have an attachment option to attach a PDF, but this forum doesn't seem to have one? Is there a way that I can post a PDF?

 

[ratherbskiing]

I'm taking oil samples at each oil change. I have my factory fill UOA and I'm about to pull another sample. Most forums have an attachment option to attach a PDF, but this forum doesn't seem to have one? Is there a way that I can post a PDF?

I see an "attach files" option when I'm in post edit mode. Red button to the left of "post reply"

 

[biodiesel]

I see an "attach files" option when I'm in post edit mode. Red button to the left of "post reply"

Thank You! It also shows up when I reply to someone.

Anyway, here's my first UOA with the factory fill:

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm taking oil samples at each oil change. I have my factory fill UOA and I'm about to pull another sample. Most forums have an attachment option to attach a PDF, but this forum doesn't seem to have one? Is there a way that I can post a PDF?

I just drag and drop like an image or photo.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thank You! It also shows up when I reply to someone.

Anyway, here's my first UOA with the factory fill:

Just my opinion - nothing more - keep an eye on the contaminate metals.
Would be great to have a baseline - like if they had the exact oil that was being used........

 

[biodiesel]

Just my opinion - nothing more - keep an eye on the contaminate metals.
Would be great to have a baseline - like if they had the exact oil that was being used........

Yeah, I wish I knew what they used as the factory fill. I'm sure it's an European oil since the engines are shipped with oil out of Italy.

I'll be posting my second UOA in a few weeks. I have two free oil changes, so I'm using those up (Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40). My second oil change will be 95% towing, so it will be interesting.

 

[PancakeCritter]

I think I pointed out that it's also based on the particular oil you use - note that some don't start to lose wear protection until higher - 280, 285, even 290 - And I read one that doesn't lose protection until higher than that. It doesn't suddenly stop working, it loses the ability to maintain protection against the higher pressures. Like said by another - a lot of variables, a huge topic.
Various oils have various abilities to protect at given pressures, and have differing film strengths. One might be able to protect with a film less thick than the next.

You are right. To me, it seems pretty well known that oils break down at high temperatures, in conjunction with many other variables. And I'm referring to scenarios where the loss of viscosity cannot be recovered because the polymer chains are permanently altered.

Which oil properties are the 3.0 EcoDiesel designed to? Who are we to say that all of their design and testing wasn't done with fluid properties of an oil that is already transformed from high temperature? In other words, fresh oil has a lot of margin, and the reduced properties from high temperatures are within the design requirements.

I'd imagine someone on this forum has experience specific to SAE lubrication requirements? Unfortunately I don't, its all military rotorcraft gearboxes....which are required to run dry for 60 minutes. It was a very sad day when a Sikorsky continued flight with a loss of lube condition, thinking they had 30 minutes to find safety. 8 minutes later, 17 souls were lost in the Atlantic Ocean.

 

[CreepyJeepy]

A bit of an update!!!

I put on 1000 miles over the past week and this time tried the hill climb again.

I this time stayed in manual 5th, stayed about 50-53 mph, rolled all the Windows down, max heat.

oil temp = 238
water temp = 232
trans = 205-210

totally fine, no derate, no issues at all.

staying out of the throttle, using manual,not using a/c on those long uphill climbs, and towing when not blistering hot.

Thanks to all who gave feedback and tips. This will work out and no reason to ditch it and head back to a Toyota.

next up is dealing with the soft rubicon front suspension that bottoms out on speed bumps, etc.

 

[ratherbskiing]

Glad to hear it. I'm going to give it a go towing again tomorrow. I plan to leave earlier in the AM to try and beat some heat but it's a 4 hour drive so I'm sure it will reach the 90's towards the end. Got a fresh oil change today after my cooling troubles last weekend while towing. The problem is, the speed limit will be 80MPH where I'm towing tomorrow so the 50MPH range is just not safe. I'm going to try to keep her at 65. I still reject the notion that I should be OK with having to blast my toddler with the heater in July just for my jeep to be able to tow a small trailer at highway speeds.

These temps are from today, NOT towing, but it WAS a pretty good hill.

 

[ChimeraJT]

Obviously we don't want to overheat, but I'm wondering if there may be a slight silver lining to this engine running so hot. With a hot engine, higher EGT's will take care of the soot buildup in the DPF, right? I haven't noticed any overlap between people with overheating issues and people with DPF issues.

I live in Texas so it's hot here for a good portion of the year. Is there any kind of evidence that running diesels in hotter climates will reduce soot buildup under city driving conditions compared to if I lived in the Northeast, for example?

 

[smlobx]

Glad to hear it. I'm going to give it a go towing again tomorrow. I plan to leave earlier in the AM to try and beat some heat but it's a 4 hour drive so I'm sure it will reach the 90's towards the end. Got a fresh oil change today after my cooling troubles last weekend while towing. The problem is, the speed limit will be 80MPH where I'm towing tomorrow so the 50MPH range is just not safe. I'm going to try to keep her at 65. I still reject the notion that I should be OK with having to blast my toddler with the heater in July just for my jeep to be able to tow a small trailer at highway speeds.

These temps are from today, NOT towing, but it WAS a pretty good hill.

Thanks for showing us your screenshot.
I noticed that you had your AC on “LO” which is max cooling. Any reason you did that instead of using the auto temp feature? If I do that on mine I freeze myself out of the Jeep, even in the low 90’s we’ve been getting around here… I’m also wondering if you have the ceiling liner panels on your ceiling? They make a huge difference for us…

 

[2TH MVR]

A bit of an update!!!

I put on 1000 miles over the past week and this time tried the hill climb again.

I this time stayed in manual 5th, stayed about 50-53 mph, rolled all the Windows down, max heat.

oil temp = 238
water temp = 232
trans = 205-210

totally fine, no derate, no issues at all.

staying out of the throttle, using manual,not using a/c on those long uphill climbs, and towing when not blistering hot.

Thanks to all who gave feedback and tips. This will work out and no reason to ditch it and head back to a Toyota.

next up is dealing with the soft rubicon front suspension that bottoms out on speed bumps, etc.

I had an older 4X4 Ram with the 360 CI motor. Used to tow a boat to Lake Powell in the summer time. That truck would overheat every time on the uphill climbs and with the A/C on. So .... to the unhappiness of my family ... I would always turn the A/C off and turn the heat on to cool the motor. This got old pretty fast. Traded that truck in for a F350 with the 7.3 Turbo diesel. Never had towing issues again. If you are towing alot .... I'm not sure I would have your patience.

 

[Granitelvr]

So, I just did a another 10k lb tow on the more difficult grades coming from Carson City, NV to Benton, CA. Outside temperature was 80-85. Oil temp never maxed above 260. Engine coolant, again, is the needle mover. I maxed at 244 I think. After cresting long grades she immediately cools off in 30 seconds. I have a long sustained grade with an increased pitch climb on this route. She runs out of steam/power and I am down to about 35mph. I saw the same kind of power loss in my Tacoma on this grade, and an F-350 diesel dually. So, I do not believe it is a derate. A couple things I investigated concerning oil. I’ve used shell rotella 15-45 synthetic or something equivalent for almost 15 years. Online I found that it’s breakdown is plus 300 degrees. Nowhere near the oil temps I am seeing. As far as cooling, I don’t know yet. I am just curious as to a few of the posts and the concern for temps? On my 13k lb pull. I had one more bar to redline, I think 246 or 248 degrees. I am just of the opinion, presently, that if it is not in the red, then that’s normal operating temperatures. That’s why it’s a redline, not in the black. I definitely want to try and figure out the engine cooling issue and their is some good potential solutions being investigated in other threads. My first oil change will be tomorrow, I am going to send off the oil and see what’s going on in the engine. I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of the writing. This vehicle is amazing and forums like this help improve upon that.

 

[GibbonsMonkey]

Might be worth an edit to the subject if you are happier now?

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