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Hi Lift 48 or 60?

Should I choose a Hi Lift 48 or 60? If it matters my JTR has Mopar 2inch and 35's

  • 48 inch

  • 60 inch

  • Hi Lift's are dangerous/unnecessary/too expensive whatever


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Free2roam

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FreddieR170

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MrKnowitall

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The biggest issue I've always had with the Hi-lift is that it likes to be dry and well lubricated. Probably a non-issue for the desert dwellers, but up here where everything rusts, its a challenge.
Secondary problem is mounting- a hilift will smash everything around it to pieces if left unrestrained.
 
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syreeves

syreeves

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The Hi Lift was pretty scary for me at first, but then I took a class on how to use it. Damn, if you regularly do off-roading, it’s a must in your bag of tricks. I do recommend doing a class though. There were a bunch of cool tricks and scary gotchas I wasn’t aware of.

You can get away with a 48 (thats what I have right now), but after learning more I've found that you want a 60 as others have mentioned due to longer wheelbase, larger wheels, and a lift. Your call, if you aren't going bigger than 35s you can probably do just fine with the 48 :P I started there... have been running 37s this season and I'm planning for 40s after I destroy these.

Also, forget the plastic base if you have traction boards, you can just put the jack on those.

PS, I do have a radflo hydra jack on order. Not sure yet how useful that is going to be in comparison with the hi lift, but it will be fun to try.

Another mounting option
CE124EE8-9AE4-479A-AA74-B84BD71771CE.jpeg
I like your rear bumper. Is it aluminum? If so where did you get? if not who made it and can I chat with them about duplicating their efforts? ?
 
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syreeves

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1638547432220.jpeg


The 60” Extreme mounts perfectly over the wheel well. Love it and use it!
I have so many questions. But first - I replaced by factory trail rail with standard aircraft rails. Do you think they make mounts? I will research... I like your setup! I have a Ace Upper Decker that limits my access close to the cab...

 

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syreeves

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I just took an off-road class. The guy running it recommended a 60". He said you're not supposed to use the top 12" of it? So a 60 maxes out at 48". He demonstrated on a Hilux in a couple of situations and he ran out of jack space pretty quickly, especially if there is a lift on the truck.
This is one of the things I was thinking about in asking my original question - thank you!
 

spectre6000

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I have one that I bought new, and looks like it went through a mill. Most of the paint is gone, but the working bits are currently shiny from a recent rebuild. :) I use it around the property to move boulders and logs and such. Never used it on a vehicle. Don't think I'd want to.
 

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I’ve been stuck for 3 hours with my son because no one had a hilift. First thing I bought before going out on the trail again.

A 48” with the bed side mounting bracket on unistrut works great and is easy to access.

73F847C2-C535-49D5-9182-51EFF5B2D664.jpeg
You couldn't use a strap?
 

ShastaJT6

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I've got a 48" one mounted to my roll bar. It's one of those things that I don't think I'll ever use, but I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Ive got one of the bottle jack / stand combos that some of the other guys have mentioned, and the AEV Jack base for the OEM scissor jack, between those two I think I'm probably pretty well set but eh..

The roll bar works well for me. Not losing and space in the bed, on the hood, etc.

Jeep Gladiator Hi Lift 48 or 60? IMG_20211203_082011395_HDR
 

FreddieR170

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I have so many questions. But first - I replaced by factory trail rail with standard aircraft rails. Do you think they make mounts? I will research... I like your setup! I have a Ace Upper Decker that limits my access close to the cab...

My setup doesn’t utilize rails to support the HiLift and I don’t know about aircraft rail mounts (mine are just Unistrut). My setup; put the baseplate toward the cab…there are 2 pretappedholes in the bed wall that match up perfectly with the baseplate holes (6mm…I can’t recall). On the other end I laminated 2- 2x10 pine boards and notched out a groove for the HiLift rail. I drilled a lateral hole thru the pine boards and ran a bolt thru an existing hole in the bedside to keep it in place. Then you just slide the base end over your 2 bolts and nut or wingnut on, then just lay the rail into the cradle and use those big yellow twist tie things to hold in place. Really easy and you’ve got a place to hang your hat (Stormy Kramer)! Yes HiLifts are potentially dangerous but if you study/train for their proper use, and be smart about it they are a great self recovery tool.
 

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MrKnowitall

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I have so many questions. But first - I replaced by factory trail rail with standard aircraft rails. Do you think they make mounts? I will research... I like your setup! I have a Ace Upper Decker that limits my access close to the cab...

If by aircraft rails you mean L-track, they make studs that you can use to mount things. Amazon.com: Extended Lug Stud Fitting,L Track and Airline Track Stud Fitting,2250 Lbs Capacity,45mm length-10pack : Automotive
Then all you'd need is some flat stock, some good-size (1/2"?)bolts, nylocks and wing nuts. Weight placement is obviously better with the foot at the front, but access should be ok with one bolt toward the tail lights and one near the middle of the bed.
 

shrinkhead

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How will you use it? Just curious as you see lots of them on Jeeps but not too often actually being used.
I have assisted with two uses this year. Resetting the spring on an XJ that popped and reseating a tire on a TJ in a terrible spot. We had to actually stack the base to get the hight right. Both instances nothing else would have worked for on the trail fixing
 

Whitarmy

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I have assisted with two uses this year. Resetting the spring on an XJ that popped and reseating a tire on a TJ in a terrible spot. We had to actually stack the base to get the hight right. Both instances nothing else would have worked for on the trail fixing
This is exactly what I was eluding to earlier. Most of the time you can get away without it. But when you need it, you need it.
 
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syreeves

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If by aircraft rails you mean L-track, they make studs that you can use to mount things. Amazon.com: Extended Lug Stud Fitting,L Track and Airline Track Stud Fitting,2250 Lbs Capacity,45mm length-10pack : Automotive
Then all you'd need is some flat stock, some good-size (1/2"?)bolts, nylocks and wing nuts. Weight placement is obviously better with the foot at the front, but access should be ok with one bolt toward the tail lights and one near the middle of the bed.
I will take pics thatnk you!
 
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syreeves

syreeves

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My setup doesn’t utilize rails to support the HiLift and I don’t know about aircraft rail mounts (mine are just Unistrut). My setup; put the baseplate toward the cab…there are 2 pretappedholes in the bed wall that match up perfectly with the baseplate holes (6mm…I can’t recall). On the other end I laminated 2- 2x10 pine boards and notched out a groove for the HiLift rail. I drilled a lateral hole thru the pine boards and ran a bolt thru an existing hole in the bedside to keep it in place. Then you just slide the base end over your 2 bolts and nut or wingnut on, then just lay the rail into the cradle and use those big yellow twist tie things to hold in place. Really easy and you’ve got a place to hang your hat (Stormy Kramer)! Yes HiLifts are potentially dangerous but if you study/train for their proper use, and be smart about it they are a great self recovery tool.
Would love to see a picture although I think I know what you mean with your pine board description!
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