Eco diesel Suspension bottoming out on normal roads

[CreepyJeepy]

So I am curious, For those of you with the Mopar 2" lift installed in it's stock form.
Do you still bottom out?

I do in offroad situations with my swaybar disconnected, it's enough that it's still very annoying.

I am going to add the following components to my Mopar 2" lift kit this weekend and will report back.

1. Metal Cloak Coil isolators (fix spring bow that I have)
2. Metal Cloak Bump Stops (Replace the Short Mopar Diesel ones with more impact absorbing ones)
3. Ranco Geo Kit (Lower the Control Arms to fix Caster, doing this with the extended mopar lower arms)
4. Terraflex 1.5" Level Kit (Only doing the 1" spacer though... Create an extra Inch of space before Bump Stops (as Metal Cloak Bumps are longer than stock)
5. Pull the Mopar Bump Stop Extensions and replace with the Terraflex ones (they look about 1/2" shorter, and I only run 35's).

Thoughts?

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[CerOf]

So I am curious, For those of you with the Mopar 2" lift installed in it's stock form.
Do you still bottom out?

I do in offroad situations with my swaybar disconnected, it's enough that it's still very annoying.

I am going to add the following components to my Mopar 2" lift kit this weekend and will report back.

1. Metal Cloak Coil isolators (fix spring bow that I have)
2. Metal Cloak Bump Stops (Replace the Short Mopar Diesel ones with more impact absorbing ones)
3. Ranco Geo Kit (Lower the Control Arms to fix Caster, doing this with the extended mopar lower arms)
4. Terraflex 1.5" Level Kit (Only doing the 1" spacer though... Create an extra Inch of space before Bump Stops (as Metal Cloak Bumps are longer than stock)
5. Pull the Mopar Bump Stop Extensions and replace with the Terraflex ones (they look about 1/2" shorter, and I only run 35's).

Thoughts?

My litmus test is comparing to the wife’s grand Cherokee and kids Xterra.
both can take a dip in my neighborhood at 20 where as my stock JT could not.

with just the mopar lift, I’m good up to 30mph.

thus, just the lift remedies the situation completely.

sure, i go 35, it’ll bottom. And it should at that point.

 

[kooltoys]

So I am curious, For those of you with the Mopar 2" lift installed in it's stock form.
Do you still bottom out?

I do in offroad situations with my swaybar disconnected, it's enough that it's still very annoying.

I am going to add the following components to my Mopar 2" lift kit this weekend and will report back.

1. Metal Cloak Coil isolators (fix spring bow that I have)
2. Metal Cloak Bump Stops (Replace the Short Mopar Diesel ones with more impact absorbing ones)
3. Ranco Geo Kit (Lower the Control Arms to fix Caster, doing this with the extended mopar lower arms)
4. Terraflex 1.5" Level Kit (Only doing the 1" spacer though... Create an extra Inch of space before Bump Stops (as Metal Cloak Bumps are longer than stock)
5. Pull the Mopar Bump Stop Extensions and replace with the Terraflex ones (they look about 1/2" shorter, and I only run 35's).

Thoughts?

could I refer you to JKS ACOS spacers( I hate to put plastic suspension component) and bumpstops or hydro stops..

 

[OnlyOne]

Although I like the adjustability of the ACOS spacers, and the quality is terrific, for over $300 I would much rather spend the money on Hydros anytime over a fixed rubber bumpstop.

 

[CreepyJeepy]

Ok update time.

I spent hours tearing apart, putting back together, testing and tearing apart my jeep trying to sort this out.


Here is my result.
Do not put the metal cloak duro springs on the diesel gladiator with a mopar 2" lift. They are much longer than the stock ones, and when it's cold they are not soft at all. They might as well be rocks, or bone crushing steel.

I'll run you through what I did and where I ended up.

1. Installed Duro bump stops, 1" terraflex spacer on top of the mopar 2" springs, and metal cloak lower coil isolators first. I then test drove and hit speed bumps at a speed of 18mph. The thing hit so damn hard... WAY worse than stock.... Reason is the duro springs might be good at 70degrees but are not OK at 25 degrees.

2. Installed the stock bump stops and the terraflex 1/2" spacer, metal cloak lower isolators and hit the speed bump at 18 mph. Felt much better, but I could tell if i was any faster it would be bad.... So I went a hair faster 21mph. It hit hard. The stock bump stops are not good enough for the weight of this diesel, but they are much better than the duro springs from metalcloak.

3. Trimmed the metal cloak bump stops to be about 3/4" shorter, and ensured to melt the bottom to prevent any cracking with a torch. (they use a cellular foam, that is sealed, cutting it screws that up, but you can melt it to get the same smooth coating that they come with. Added the terraflex 1/2" spacer on top of the springs, and Removed the lower metal bump stop extensions provided from Jeep in the kit and added the 1" bump stop extension provided from terraflex. The jeep ones are about 1 and 5/8" tall vs terraflex which is at 1". This is much better. No bottom out at 18, and at 21 it's faint. The front now sits about 3/4" taller. I can say even though it's better, it's not going to prevent this bottom out condition while off-roading with the sway disconnected.

FYI My shocks are not blown, everything is in good condition, and I know what I am doing.


The next step was to install the rancho geo kit.....

Long story it's not possible without removing the DPF Filter.... The upper control arm mounting bolt (pass side) (frame) is too long to remove without removing the DPF filter. I tried everything. you would need to cut the bolt which I wasn't about to do.... I did not want to deal with that... It would have been a pain in the ass due to the EGR connections, and DEF injector etc. I didn't want to touch it so I didn't... I returned it.... It looked quality FYI.... If you have a geo kit on your diesel... how the hell did you remove your pass side upper control arm?

Shockingly though my pull to the right is GONE. I am convinced it has to do with the metalcloak lower coil isolators. The spring bow I think causes un-even rates side to side in the springs, so even though my caster is likely at 4.0 - 4.2 ish degrees now (due to the extra 1/2" spacer)... It doesn't pull.... I'll deal with some light wondering... (my 80s wranger couldn't even do 70mph on the highway...)

I can tell there is more impact transfer into the cab with the LCA's at a steeper angle, but I'll deal with it for now, as I don't want to tear into the emissions system to install a geo kit.

I don't think there is a way to prevent the front of the diesel gladiator from bottoming out without a 4" lift, control arms, and hydraulic bump stops. It will never be a mojve without some significant money spent....

But for now it looks great, drives straight, doesn't bottom out on bumps if you drive slow... it is what it is.... I think if you like driving fast (like you used to in a tacoma on dirt roads) you will need to learn to slow your roll. This is a crawler, and only a crawler.

 

[OrangeCJ]

Ok update time.

But for now it looks great, drives straight, doesn't bottom out on bumps if you drive slow... it is what it is.... I think if you like driving fast (like you used to in a tacoma on dirt roads) you will need to learn to slow your roll. This is a crawler, and only a crawler.

WOW You had a busy weekend. Nice work, and nice write-up. I have to say, I am really not happy with the outcome! I am super concerned that even with a 2 inch lift you are still having issue with bottoming out.

Since I have been on this issue from the very beginning I took Pike's advice above and opened ANOTHER case with JC's... I have an appointment on Wednesday anyway, and already did the drive with the Service advisor, so hopefully JC will take care of me this time.

But you have me worried that even the 2in Lift isn't even going to fix it

 

[CreepyJeepy]

WOW You had a busy weekend. Nice work, and nice write-up. I have to say, I am really not happy with the outcome! I am super concerned that even with a 2 inch lift you are still having issue with bottoming out.

Since I have been on this issue from the very beginning I took Pike's advice above and opened ANOTHER case with JC's... I have an appointment on Wednesday anyway, and already did the drive with the Service advisor, so hopefully JC will take care of me this time.

But you have me worried that even the 2in Lift wont allow me to drive this truck to the mall

You will be totally fine around town, but if you hit the forest service roads hard, you will find your bumps. It won't stop you....

I think really the issue is in the rebound rate of the shocks. I would love to find some shocks that have rebound / highspeed/lowspeed adjusters to try out.

 

[OrangeCJ]

You will be totally fine around town, but if you hit the forest service roads hard, you will find your bumps. It won't stop you....

I think really the issue is in the rebound rate of the shocks. I would love to find some shocks that have rebound / highspeed/lowspeed adjusters to try out.

Tossing around the idea of the DV8 Bumpstops... Another 400 bucks to address what should be a NON issue. But might be worth a shot.

 

[rharr]

The next step was to install the rancho geo kit.....

Long story it's not possible without removing the DPF Filter.... The upper control arm mounting bolt (pass side) (frame) is too long to remove without removing the DPF filter. I tried everything. you would need to cut the bolt which I wasn't about to do.... I did not want to deal with that... It would have been a pain in the ass due to the EGR connections, and DEF injector etc. I didn't want to touch it so I didn't... I returned it.... It looked quality FYI.... If you have a geo kit on your diesel... how the hell did you remove your pass side upper control arm?

You cut the bolt, and get a new one. There is a "Dirtlifestyles" youtube video where he does a claytons lift on his JTRD and address this bolt issue.

Fyi it's a metric bolt i think m14 x1.5.

I have a rock crawler 3" kit with shocks and front LCA's sitting in the garage, just need to find time to install it.

 

[james2021dieselglad]

I have an update on my JTRD getting fixed and it is good news!
I just had my suspension swapped for the 2" lift kit and it was paid for by Jeep Wave. Just before my JTRD was fixed there was another just like it that was fixed and paid for by Jeep. I have a case number you can reference at the bottom and inside that it should reference the other case number, the process it to get ahold of Jeep Wave and tell them the issue, give them the case numbers and then go to the deal to get a diagnosis. Once it is diagnosed the dealer has to agree to Jeep Wave paying for it. Jeep Wave will call and work this out with the dealer. I had to go to two dealers because the first was not responsive. I know there is a fix coming out this qtr. but if you want to try and get it fixed now this is the process.

They also reinstalled the Terraflex level kit.

BTW I was very impressed with how the case manager at Jeep Wave handled this situation.

I'm located in Utah, first dealer was Ken Garff. They never responded to Jeep Wave. The second dealer was Salt Lake Valley. This where the JTRD before me and mine were completed.

My Case Number 81292917

So do I just bring this referencd number into my dealership? I already told them about it before and they know. Do I need to contact or call someone else and tell them first? I intend to do this as soon as possible. @JeepCares
Please help.

I use the dealership here in Saint Geoege Utah. It's called Steven Wade Chrysler jeep. Last time I talked to them, the service huy said he had more then one mopar diesel lift kit. If I can get this done tomorrow I will. I'm tired of bottoming out and not being able to go offroad.

 

[Free2roam]

Back to the same old question. Is this for Rubicon diesels only?

 

[Rusty PW]

You cut the bolt, and get a new one. There is a "Dirtlifestyles" youtube video where he does a claytons lift on his JTRD and address this bolt issue.

Fyi it's a metric bolt i think m14 x1.5.

I have a rock crawler 3" kit with shocks and front LCA's sitting in the garage, just need to find time to install it.

Have to do this on the 3 and 4 Gen Power Wagons too. On the passenger side. The bolt hits the exhaust pipe. Sawzall for the win. Once out. Install the bolt from the other side.

 

[ilovebikes99]

It is happening on my Willys Diesel as well when I'm not going slow over bumps so it is only fair Willys get it as well. Rubicon is a bit heavier than Willys but it also has larger tires which should soak up road more

 

[Glad_he_ate]

My willies does it too. I’ll be lifting in spring if they don’t fix it by then..

 

[james2021dieselglad]

My willies does it too. I’ll be lifting in spring if they don’t fix it by then..

Hence why I am asking about the dealership. I'm about to call today.

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