Diesel cooling options and ideas

[ZoneArc]

Problem is, there is zero indication that they plan to address it.

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[JT4000]

Hi folks , thought I would give real world examples of what my JTRD does with a couple mods. First thing I did was to add a ProVent 200 new style catch can. It has pulled about a litre of crap, oil, water and sludge from my lovely diesel. I currently have 26k on my truck so my"one litre" of crap has not been ingested by the intake, turbo and valve train. Did this mod right away, and sorry guys FCA engineers are controlled by the bean counters. The Centrifical separator only does so much. Want to see how bad they are, pull the rubber tube off the intake tube. It will be full of oil. Next immeadiate removal was the plastic cover on the engine and the rubber noise boots. Gone before I left the dealership just hold heat in, not what our diesels need. Maybe for winter use, but I have never had them on my engine. Next thing to do, open the bottom on the hood vents and make them real and functional. The heat coming out of mine summer and winter would scare you!
I pull a bunch of trailers since new. My boat the heaviest at 3500lbs. I have never seen my temperature above the middle mark on my dash! Hot day Cold day and everything in between. I have pulled at 100 degrees out and at -20 she just purrs. Oil changes every 5000km religiously. Shell Rotella T6 sinthetic only. Just what FCA wants. I am a retired heavy equipment diesel mechanic. Bypass oil system coming soon. PS. I run a Clayton 4.5 inch lift on front 3.5 inch on rear with upper and lower control arms and Currie Rock Jock Tie Rod and Drag link. All this stuff is super beefy. Lots of theory on this site and lots of neat ideas. What I have done is working and I want my truck to go 500km plus. And it will!!! Cheers all.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Problem is, there is zero indication that they plan to address it.

I know.....

I suppose first all of us have to officially make them aware and admit there could be an issue? You know they are reading the forums hoping it never has to be addressed. DENY DENY DENY and play dumb. It's the corporate way. At least if it's just for extreme environments, they could just issue a TSB blaming the extreme conditions and ask us to pay for the kit?

 

[CrazyCooter]

Hi folks , thought I would give real world examples of what my JTRD does with a couple mods. First thing I did was to add a ProVent 200 new style catch can. It has pulled about a litre of crap, oil, water and sludge from my lovely diesel. I currently have 26k on my truck so my"one litre" of crap has not been ingested by the intake, turbo and valve train. Did this mod right away, and sorry guys FCA engineers are controlled by the bean counters. The Centrifical separator only does so much. Want to see how bad they are, pull the rubber tube off the intake tube. It will be full of oil. Next immeadiate removal was the plastic cover on the engine and the rubber noise boots. Gone before I left the dealership just hold heat in, not what our diesels need. Maybe for winter use, but I have never had them on my engine. Next thing to do, open the bottom on the hood vents and make them real and functional. The heat coming out of mine summer and winter would scare you!
I pull a bunch of trailers since new. My boat the heaviest at 3500lbs. I have never seen my temperature above the middle mark on my dash! Hot day Cold day and everything in between. I have pulled at 100 degrees out and at -20 she just purrs. Oil changes every 5000km religiously. Shell Rotella T6 sinthetic only. Just what FCA wants. I am a retired heavy equipment diesel mechanic. Bypass oil system coming soon. PS. I run a Clayton 4.5 inch lift on front 3.5 inch on rear with upper and lower control arms and Currie Rock Jock Tie Rod and Drag link. All this stuff is super beefy. Lots of theory on this site and lots of neat ideas. What I have done is working and I want my truck to go 500km plus. And it will!!! Cheers all.

FYI....the middle mark on the water temp is over 240°? It does not move linear like a mechanical gauge does. It goes from normal (below center) to HOT (Center) to overheated/10mph (3/4 mark) in like 15-20°. They can make (Normal) any value they want though coding.

 

[ZoneArc]

They'll address it if people push their engines and the engines fail. At that point they'll push on consumers to pay for engine replacements until someone wins a court case. Then they'll have to apply engineers to make a solution.

 

[CrazyCooter]

They'll address it if people push their engines and the engines fail. At that point they'll push on consumers to pay for engine replacements until someone wins a court case. Then they'll have to apply engineers to make a solution.

What if there isn't a single failure but the performance is still poor? Is driving on the side of the road at 40 mph due to a derate or 10mph after an overheat event when weather is over 100° something to report to NHTSA from a safety standpoint?

I also own a Husky 701 which has known for clutch slave cylinder failures since like FOREVER along with many other KTM/Husky products. The dealer knew and just sold people an OEM replacement (which would also be prone to quick failure) if it was out of warranty. It's pretty much known to just buy an aftermarket replacement or face a certain failure at the worst time. Couple of months back, someone on the FB group was looking for other Canadians who suffered a failure to file a report with the Canadian version of our NHTSA.........What do you know.....I got a recall notice in the mail!

If NHTSA gets a report from 10's or 100's of JT/JL diesel owners, you cant ignore that. Our forum makes up a very small amount of Jeep owners nation wide. There are the Canadian YouTubers that are experiencing the same issues.

 

[ZoneArc]

Start an online petition on Change.org. Detail the issues. Share it here and in every ecodiesel, jeep gladiator, jeep, etc forum and facebook group. Get thousands of Jeep owners to sign the petition. Start blasting the results publicly on social media, send it to dealers, send it to the NHTSA, etc so that it becomes visible. Tag #Jeep on it weekly. Get attention and there's a shot.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Start an online petition on Change.org. Detail the issues. Share it here and in every ecodiesel, jeep gladiator, jeep, etc forum and facebook group. Get thousands of Jeep owners to sign the petition. Start blasting the results publicly on social media, send it to dealers, send it to the NHTSA, etc so that it becomes visible. Tag #Jeep on it weekly. Get attention and there's a shot.

All tools at our disposal.

Sombody should do that!

I have never met the person named "Somebody", but surely he, she, they, it exists somewhere? Or you could start the movement yourself?

 

[ZoneArc]

Sorry, but I'm not interested in the work.
At this point, its likely my Gladiator will have a custom tuned ECU and trans, deleted, methanol injected, all before it even has 15,000 miles on it. The warranty stuff doesn't bug me. I can rebuild it when it comes time and at that point I'll just build the internals and swap a larger turbo on it.
My point is ... fighting Jeep on it is not something I'll spend a ton of time doing. Want me to sign a paper to help? Of course I'll do that. But, 40-80 hrs of my life spent on this? Based on my billable rates, I just bought 3 replacement 3.0L engines.

 

[Deleted member 22728]

Mine has been performing very satisfactorily since trimming the intake "boot", adding the scoops, and gearing to 4.56. Aside from adding the oil filter mod - the heat exchanger will be what Hamburger's Superchargers uses for compressor oil cooling, as mounted on the inner frame - I picked-up an extra oil pan to use as a template for "something". However, it's doing so well now I'm (kinda) not inclined to go any further.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Mine has been performing very satisfactorily since trimming the intake "boot", adding the scoops, and gearing to 4.56. Aside from adding the oil filter mod - the heat exchanger will be what Hamburger's Superchargers uses for compressor oil cooling, as mounted on the inner frame - I picked-up an extra oil pan to use as a template for "something". However, it's doing so well now I'm (kinda) not inclined to go any further.

Are you referring to the intake flap/boot that seals against the inside hood? I have never understood WTF they were trying to accomplish there........We need the cutout like they have for the right side.

 

[ajkaz]

Mine has been performing very satisfactorily since trimming the intake "boot", adding the scoops, and gearing to 4.56. Aside from adding the oil filter mod - the heat exchanger will be what Hamburger's Superchargers uses for compressor oil cooling, as mounted on the inner frame - I picked-up an extra oil pan to use as a template for "something". However, it's doing so well now I'm (kinda) not inclined to go any further.

Do you know what heat exchanger and where they are mounting it by chance?

 

[Curtjeep]

I read the first20 pages, but then skipped to here to ask: Has anyone tracked EGTs while towing? I see many different posts with varying (slightly)coolant and oil Temps. It seems like it may be EGT related. I don't own an ecodiesel currently(Mine was totaled in a car accident in July RIP) but I do remember seeing EGTs in the 1400+ range when I accelerated hard with my old camper behind it, but those were temporary spikes. If the pcm debates after a temp threshold or if it maintains a temp for too long the answer may be a better intercooler?

 

[Glad_he_ate]

egts may be a culprit but high oil temps are definitely happening. I’ve not had a derate myself but have seen oil as high as 250+ I’ve decided that regardless of derate or Lack if derate I will be adding the bypass filter and I will also be adding a cooler. Likely one with a thermocouple and fan. I’m eyeballing this one

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13740
With the insane diesel bypass
It’ll come on at 200 and off at 180
Will likely put on a switch as well so I can leave it off while not towing

has anyone run the lorenzos oil in the 3.0 ?? Is it even compatible??

 

[Deleted member 22728]

Do you know what heat exchanger and where they are mounting it by chance?

I will be pulling both the JLUR "Mattie" supercharged Jeep, as well as, more relevantly, the "Gregori" JTUR Eco in for their PM A service this week, and will post the relevant pics for your perusal. Basically, with the standard 3.6 gasser, using the Hamburgers unit, you have two choices for fluid cooler location. The secondary location places the heat exchanger along the inside frame rail; however, since the oil burners are mirror images of the gassers, the unit is placed on the driver side...unless you want to place it in the default location, up-front, lower.

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