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Diesel cooling options and ideas

Rusty PW

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I am trying to avoid putting anything else in front of the radiator, may downgrade the remote oil cooler fan to a smaller unit, but would like it in the lower rear of the engine bay.

What would be the optimal temp for the fans to kick on? Looking for a higher inline thermostat than 180, maybe 220?
I have a Nissan 370Z Nismo that I have an oil cooler on with a thermostatic plate. The plate is not fully closed. It allows about 10% flow through it when cold. This keeps amount small flow of oil through. Because when it goes full open. You don't want a cold slug of oil going through the motor. My oil cooler is sandwiched between a 4" thick intercooler and a radiator. My thermostatic plate opens up at 180. If you live in a hot climate. I would go with the 180. Now if you're in a colder climate. Go with a 200. Some of the 370Z guys with cover the oil cooler with a piece of aluminum in the winter.

When the oil temps get up to 240. The ECU starts to pull timing, cutting power slowly. When the temp gets to 270. The ECU will go into limb mode. Most all new vehicles have this built into their ECU to protect the engine. Mustang guys really bitch about this on the track. From reading on here. The Ecodiesel has something like it.
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Even synthetic? Not trying to be a keyboard warrior but thought that good full syn was safe to 300+.
Varies - there are synthetics that won't handle heat as well as the best conventional oils but the best synthetics beat out the best conventional oils at handling heat. There are many synthetic oils that won't handle that sort of temperature (300 degrees) and oil that hits the pistons and cylinder walls will be hotter than the oil in the sump where it's measured.
 

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What would be the point of this way overkill cooler setup when you are only supplying a few gals per hour through it? Not enough heat transfer to justify?
Great feedback thanks, what your suggestion in lowering oil temps when high? Definitely still intend to run the aftermarket filter.
 

ajkaz

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I have a Nissan 370Z Nismo that I have an oil cooler on with a thermostatic plate. The plate is not fully closed. It allows about 10% flow through it when cold. This keeps amount small flow of oil through. Because when it goes full open. You don't want a cold slug of oil going through the motor. My oil cooler is sandwiched between a 4" thick intercooler and a radiator. My thermostatic plate opens up at 180. If you live in a hot climate. I would go with the 180. Now if you're in a colder climate. Go with a 200. Some of the 370Z guys with cover the oil cooler with a piece of aluminum in the winter.

When the oil temps get up to 240. The ECU starts to pull timing, cutting power slowly. When the temp gets to 270. The ECU will go into limb mode. Most all new vehicles have this built into their ECU to protect the engine. Mustang guys really bitch about this on the track. From reading on here. The Ecodiesel has something like it.
That’s interesting, do you have a link to the plate Your using?
 

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Great feedback thanks, what your suggestion in lowering oil temps when high? Definitely still intend to run the aftermarket filter.
I dont have a solution, but running a small amount of oil from a bypass through a large forced air cooler isn't going to fix it.

We need to get a manufacturer on board to engineer a oil filter adapter that flows all of the oil through the cooler.
 

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Rusty PW

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ajkaz

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I dont have a solution, but running a small amount of oil from a bypass through a large forced air cooler isn't going to fix it.

We need to get a manufacturer on board to engineer a oil filter adapter that flows all of the oil through the cooler.
They offer a filter cap option, I’ll find out the flow with that option As well. Maybe I could run the filter and a cooler in parallel?

The flow through the sensor T and filter is 1.5 gpm.
 

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What would be the point of this way overkill cooler setup when you are only supplying a few gals per hour through it? Not enough heat transfer to justify?
The oil filter cycles 2G of oil per minute according to InsaneDiesel. The EcoDiesel holds an oil capacity of 2.7G. The additional particulate filter, cooler and hoses add an additional 1G of oil capacity. Therefore, you are cycling a larger distribution of heat at a rate of 54% of oil every 60 seconds. Since 54% of oil is being double filtered and cooled by a front cooler, there will be gains.

A bigger improvement would come if I could have found a location to put an active cooler. That won't fit between the grill and radiator. I've thought about dual, small active coolers under the vents and then open the vents up for airflow and actually attach them to the hood in parallel. Or, somewhere under the vehicle and run remote lines for a substantially higher oil capacity. Say, where the tire is under the bed.
Also, a pump driven active oil cooler and a deeper pan could have doubled oil capacity and cycled oil at 3x capacity per minute. That's where we'll see the most gains in the future once a company figures it out.
 

CrazyCooter

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The oil filter cycles 2G of oil per minute according to InsaneDiesel. The EcoDiesel holds an oil capacity of 2.7G. The additional particulate filter, cooler and hoses add an additional 1G of oil capacity. Therefore, you are cycling a larger distribution of heat at a rate of 54% of oil every 60 seconds. Since 54% of oil is being double filtered and cooled by a front cooler, there will be gains.

A bigger improvement would come if I could have found a location to put an active cooler. That won't fit between the grill and radiator. I've thought about dual, small active coolers under the vents and then open the vents up for airflow and actually attach them to the hood in parallel. Or, somewhere under the vehicle and run remote lines for a substantially higher oil capacity. Say, where the tire is under the bed.
Also, a pump driven active oil cooler and a deeper pan could have doubled oil capacity and cycled oil at 3x capacity per minute. That's where we'll see the most gains in the future once a company figures it out.
I can agree there will absolutely be gains, but installing some massive cooler with fans when you only have 2gals min to put through it seems like a wasted effert unless it's below freezing ambient? I'm far from and expect on this subject, but I would think we need more oil flow than that to make a difference when it counts........When the ambient is 90°+?

Yes, maybe the solution is a remote pump/aux system to move more without compromising that engine's pressurized oiling. I so hate adding extra stuff that can leak oil..........
 

ZoneArc

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I've seen improvements of 7-10 degrees. That's not amazing, but its working just enough to make it tolerable with a trailer behind me. At 65mph, I'm golden at 230 EOT now. I go higher when at 75mph because of my gearing which is a unique issue as I geared it much lower than anyone should for highway driving, and as a result I'm at 2800+RPM which drives up that temp quickly.

But, that 7-10 degree drop was just enough to drive varying terrain with a 5200lb trailer on a JT with a TON of equipment on it (40" spare, roof rack, bed rack, 3 toolboxes, heavy front and rear bumpers, steel fenders and rockets, etc). In most other people's rigs, I would expect the same, if not a higher improvement.

And, I totally understand this is NOT the end goal. But, I had to implement a bandaid since there is no other option right now. When an active cooler/pump is released by someone, I'll be moving full speed that way. Honestly, if someone did a methanol injection cooler, I would buy that in a heartbeat as well.
 

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CrazyCooter

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I've seen improvements of 7-10 degrees. That's not amazing, but its working just enough to make it tolerable with a trailer behind me. At 65mph, I'm golden at 230 EOT now. I go higher when at 75mph because of my gearing which is a unique issue as I geared it much lower than anyone should for highway driving, and as a result I'm at 2800+RPM which drives up that temp quickly.

But, that 7-10 degree drop was just enough to drive varying terrain with a 5200lb trailer on a JT with a TON of equipment on it (40" spare, roof rack, bed rack, 3 toolboxes, heavy front and rear bumpers, steel fenders and rockets, etc). In most other people's rigs, I would expect the same, if not a higher improvement.

And, I totally understand this is NOT the end goal. But, I had to implement a bandaid since there is no other option right now. When an active cooler/pump is released by someone, I'll be moving full speed that way. Honestly, if someone did a methanol injection cooler, I would buy that in a heartbeat as well.
I'd love to see mine 220-225° rolling down the road unloaded, 230-235° towing on the flats, and not peak above 250° towing on a 6-9% grade at ambient 100° or less. This should also lighten the load on the water cooling system lowering coolant temps?
 

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This should also lighten the load on the water cooling system lowering coolant temps?
I would think so - cooling the oil cools off some of the most hot parts of the engine, reducing the load on the normal cooling system. Remove heat from oil and remove heat from pistons which in turn transfer less heat to the cylinder walls - heck, you know the drill....
 

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I haven't really tracked changes in Engine Temp, so I don't want to comment on that. It should, but who knows.
I was comfortable spending $$$ on a filter cap, oil cap, oil hose, and an oil cooler. You could piece this together for $250 and decide if that's worth a 10 degree temp drop. It's quite likely in 6-12 months there will be a methanol injection or active oil cooler for $1000 that'll have much more substantial drops. Again, mine was a bandaid.
 

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I haven't really tracked changes in Engine Temp, so I don't want to comment on that. It should, but who knows.
I was comfortable spending $$$ on a filter cap, oil cap, oil hose, and an oil cooler. You could piece this together for $250 and decide if that's worth a 10 degree temp drop. It's quite likely in 6-12 months there will be a methanol injection or active oil cooler for $1000 that'll have much more substantial drops. Again, mine was a bandaid.
I'm not potentially voiding my warranty or investing the time/money involved for a 10° drop in oil temp. I want to see a 40-50° which could translate to a 10-20° drop in coolant temp.

Same thing with meth........Not voiding warranty, adding weight, or power for almost no drop in coolant/oil temp. Use the power and temps will go up higher? If 66% of the heat produced by the engine is wasted....surely some of that will end up in the cooling fluids. Where will I find 5-10 gals of distilled water/meth at every fuel stop out on the road? Thats easy....add a bigger tank? Now I'm adding even more weight to pack around over GVWR?

Were not racing short distance, so this needs to be a reliable permanent one time solution. I'd prefer that Mopar sell an optional "Severe service" cooler option in the future and a kit for people that live in hot climates or operate near GCVWR and maybe offer it up at cost to those of us that are affected?
 

Rusty PW

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