Frame damage directly off the delivery truck

[RS3]

Why are they not using axle straps? Hate to see you having issues like that. This is something I will have to look at when mine comes in.

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[jac04]

Why are they not using axle straps?

They don't use axle straps because vehicles being shipped are often shipped with the suspension 'locked out' and the restraints holding the vehicle in place. They want the vehicle to stay in the exact place that they put it - no swaying side to side or bouncing up & down. This allows them to arrange vehicles closer together.

 

[TwelveGaugeSage]

What should I do here? Was installing my lift this morning on my 2022 Gladiator that I picked up yesterday and noticed this.. Both sides.. This truck is Brand New!!

Here is what it should look like for reference.

 

[Dqban]

There are no cooling off laws for new car purchases in the US. There are a few states that have laws allowing you to buy a cancellation option on used car purchase contracts, but that wouldn’t apply here.

your correct the cooling off laws dont typically apply to cars specifically, I thought I remembered several state level versions though. I'm certainly no expert in this area so take my comment here with a massive grain of salt.

Even when a car is new, most states have laws protecting you from unseen damage. He can even argue the car was not as advertised. Thats not to mention the number of dealerships that have an actual in house return policy. How and which law exactlly can be manipulated in his favor im not sure but, I do know there are generally protections from things like frame damage. How are you going to check if a frame is straight at the dealership? Some things can only be discovered after use or by expert analysis....I would argue damage that is only discovered when working on the suspension system falls in that category...Not reasonable to take apart your suspension prior to purchase.
Im certainly no lawyer, but it seems like you have a strong argument for returning the vehicle, especially since its the next day.

For me, as a last resort, I would let them repo the thing. My house is paid and I haven't given a crap about my credit score in years. Cash is king.

 

[chsapeak]

My biggest concern is if they repair it and that repair shows up on a future car fax report. That alone can cost me thousands in future values when I go to sell or trade in

 

[Mac]

It’s annoying but IMO it is not affecting anything structural, I would just use a hammer and dolly to straighten it out then spray some paint on the exposed metal. I would bring it to the dealers attention but wouldn’t waste the time to have them work on it and possibly make it worse or screw something else up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Ahh, slight misread on my part, apologies. That’s unusually generous of your dealership.

I did do more searching and have been unable to find a single state with a cooling off period for new car sales, though a number have varying protections for used car sales.

Use cars is 30 days:
If you've bought a used motor vehicle from a dealership, you have the right to return the car within the first 30 days of purchase. This is the “short-term right to reject” rule under the Consumer Rights Act 2015. If you find a fault with the car within the 30-day period, you have the right to 'reject' it.
Note, it says "if you find a fault". Likely won't apply if you simply change your mind.

Iowa is really strict on new cars - NO, you bought it, you own it.

Feds and states generally agree with the new car dealerships - once it has left the lot, it's used.
Miles cost money. You could take the thing out and tow with it and spend a week and put 200 miles on it and run it hard, and then change your mind.
States and the feds know this sort of thing costs dealerships in big ways.
Paperwork is signed and dated. There are responsibilities. Titles are to be transferred within so many hours in many cases. It's all dated.

Edmunds has a great write-up where they speak to the dealerships MAYBE doing such a thing for good will:


The Federal 'Cooling-Off Rule'
You might have heard there is a federal cooling-off rule for some purchases. There is such a rule, but it is primarily meant to protect consumers from high-pressure door-to-door sales tactics. It explicitly doesn't apply to automobiles. If you signed the sales contract, you own the car. And the law is on the side of the seller.

So, what can you do about that knot in your gut? Here's where the "maybe" comes in. Essentially, it is up to the dealer whether to unwind the deal. While business owners clearly want customers to be satisfied, undoing a car purchase is a costly headache for a car dealer. But there are times when it's the right thing to do. That's the viewpoint laid out in "Unwinding a Deal," an article in a dealership publication, F&I and Showroom, written by Marv Eleazer, finance director at Langdale Ford in Valdosta, Georgia.

Can you unwind your purchase of a new car? The answers to that question are 'no' and 'maybe.'

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My biggest concern is if they repair it and that repair shows up on a future car fax report. That alone can cost me thousands in future values when I go to sell or trade in

That's a huge IF. You can simply tell the dealer they don't dare report it. In fact, not all do anyway. And most private shops do not report things to carfax.
It's purely voluntary.
One state did a study and found 5 vehicles where they KNEW of damage, but there were no reports at all of any damage. They've also found vehicles with several repairs - none of which were ever reported.
It's a craps shoot.
If they have a repair option that is acceptable to you, tell them they will not report it, otherwise it won't be accepted.
There are no laws and no rules stating anything at all must be reported.
I had entire rocker panels replaced on a Jeep - and when I sold it, the report came back spotless.
Besides, if you keep good records and photos - you can prove what the damage was. There is also no rule or law stating that if evidence of a repair was found in carfax it has to drop the value. That's going to be up to the dealer or buyer in the end.

 

[Vtur]

I wouldn't consider that frame damage. That's just a crash/submarine bar that also serves as a lower mount for the front Skid. It's actually cut off by a lot of people for the installation of certain front bumpers. The fact that it tore like that would lead me to think the actual frame is fine. That right there is the weak point, it failed, likely saving the actual frame from any tweaks.

I agreed. Crumble zone when bottoming out the skid plate.

 

[jac04]

... I would just use a hammer and dolly to straighten it out then spray some paint on the exposed metal....

I would take it a step further.
After the hammer & dolly work, here's what I would do for each side:
1) Clean everything thoroughly.
2) Use 2 hardened steel washers with a Grade 8 bolt & stover lock nut to clamp everything flat while covering the damage. This hardware will go in the smaller hole.
3) Before installing the above hardware, slather everything with JB Weld to 'bed' it in and seal everything against moisture.
4) After hardware installation, wipe off all excess epoxy.
5) After epoxy dries, paint with your choice of black paint.

 

[bastage]

Meh.. Looks like a great reason to go with one of the frame chop front bumpers.

 

[KX L]

The good news is the dealership knows you as a loyal customer and will most likely work something out to your satisfaction and not report it.

To me it looks like the dealership did a half ass inspection and set up for the customer. These pieces are visible when checking the tires---not hidden away between the frame rails. Not unexpected as new mechanics are often assigned the PDI [PreDeliveryInspection] on new vehicles.

While I know there are many clueless personnel at dealerships, I would bet 90+% of the leadership in the service departments know that the most risky part of transport of a new car to the dealership are the car carriers. The stress on the suspension is huge even when they are properly tied down. Thus the person responsible for the acceptance of the vehicles as they get unloaded should have seen this. Common issue is that person has "better things to do" and doesn't or barely watches the unloading and then blanket accepts the vehicles.

We have the same issues when people transport Harleys---they don't know how or where to strap them down and end up cracking hydraulic lines, brake calipers, bullet turn signals etc. I've also seen blown fork seals from idiots who strap the bike waaay to far down on the suspension.

Very interested in the outcome of this.

 

[redrider]

"... when bottoming out the skid plate."
So, I am not the only one calling it for what it is and not what it is not-air dam. It is plastic, made to deform to absorb hits and protect the components underneath.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Pretty sure they are referring to Rubicons with a steel skid plate.

That piece of plastic won't protect crap.
I've busted pieces like that before ... on hard snow.

It's called a close-out panel on Overland.
Skid plate is the steel piece. They are even different in the parts listings.

(There's nothing up there to protect on an Overland anyway, not really.)

That thing has really cheap tin pieces that hold it on the rear and plastic push pins hold it on the front to the bumper. It can easily be ripped off, mangled.

Skid plate = steel and can protect.
Close-out panel = plastic, I can grip one and rip it off with my hands. It's held on with plastic pins and sheet metal screws to sheet metal brackets on the rear of it.
It does pretty much nothing but cover the underside, like the engine cover does before they got rid of it.
Anyone thinking that cheap $25 piece of plastic is going to protect anything will get a big surprise.

I've had both on my truck and have having ripped similar panels off other vehicles in our snow, I opted for a real skid plate, which Jeep does call a skid plate.

Skid plates protect
Closeout panels make things look finished and pretty

 

[johnparjr]

Any updates ?

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