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Rounded oil filter cap

htremper

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Irritating af…

go to do a simple oil change and drain plug rounded …no biggie removed with vice grips and put a new one in.

goto remove the filter cap and it is now rounding off also …it’s in that wierd place where I am not sure what I can get in there to remove it…Anyone else have this issue? Or any ideas how to get this off? (Yes I have a new one…oddly available quickly)
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Hootbro

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Get a big pair of Channellock style pliers and take the cap off that way.

Who has been doing your oil changes? If they have been done properly and actually torqued to spec, should not be stripping anything.

I will say the oil filter cap is not forgiving of German torquing it instead of actually using a torque wrench and the spec'd 18 ft-lbs.
 

whiteglad

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I use 15/16 inch which is slightly smaller than 24 mm.
 

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jac04

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I've never had an issue with a drain plug or oil filter cap on any vehicle I have ever owned. I always make sure to use the correct size 6-point socket.
The o-ring actually seals the cap and makes it resistant to vibration. I grease (lightly) the o-ring, flange, and threads and tighten lightly, not even to 18.
This is great advice on the cap, although I just use clean engine oil and not grease. I use a small torque wrench and 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lbs) on the cap for both my JK and JT. The plastic makes me nervous about over-tightening.
 

IamPro2A

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I use 15/16 inch which is slightly smaller than 24 mm.
Yea, I bought a 24mm 6 point when we got the JK because I didn't have one; before realizing 15/16 = 23.81mm and fits just fine.

But yea, 3 main things with these, and 1 CYA:
1 - Use a 6 point socket
2 - Lube the o-ring with motor oil before installing
3 - Do not overtighten!

Bonus: A replacement cap is cheap. If you buy one beforehand just in case, you will never have a problem with the original one. :P
 

LostWoods

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Doesn't help now but the proliferation of cartridge filters has made 3/8" drive sockets in the larger sizes super common and it's the only way to go. They require almost no torque so using a stubby 3/8" can help if you're afraid you'd give it too much ugga.

For the drain there's nothing like a Fumoto for easy oil changes. If you've got 3-4" of total lift between springs and tires, you can just slide a home depot bucket under there and it makes it a 5 minute job.
 

TroutFishingInAmerica

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First oil change I did myself after the freebies, the drain plug was so tight I had to do the double wrench leverage hack to get it off. The oil filter cap was also tight but 24 twelve point did get it off. On the recommendation from a friend I have a extra filter cap I carry with me just in case.
 

WILDHOBO

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I've never had an issue with a drain plug or oil filter cap on any vehicle I have ever owned. I always make sure to use the correct size 6-point socket.

This is great advice on the cap, although I just use clean engine oil and not grease. I use a small torque wrench and 120 in-lbs (10 ft-lbs) on the cap for both my JK and JT. The plastic makes me nervous about over-tightening.
That plastic filter cap is, in my opinion, something to not use a torque wrench with. That calls for the good’n’tight method, carefully with the correct socket. Same for the drain plug in my opinion. I’ve replaced my drain plug with a valve though. Always 6 point. Never multi point to avoid stripping.
 

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WILDHOBO

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Doesn't help now but the proliferation of cartridge filters has made 3/8" drive sockets in the larger sizes super common and it's the only way to go. They require almost no torque so using a stubby 3/8" can help if you're afraid you'd give it too much ugga.

For the drain there's nothing like a Fumoto for easy oil changes. If you've got 3-4" of total lift between springs and tires, you can just slide a home depot bucket under there and it makes it a 5 minute job.
I have a fumoto as well. I just keep one 5 quart jug empty, so I can drain the old oil into it and take it right to the recycling place.
 

jac04

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That plastic filter cap is, in my opinion, something to not use a torque wrench with. That calls for the good’n’tight method, carefully with the correct socket. Same for the drain plug in my opinion. I’ve replaced my drain plug with a valve though. Always 6 point. Never multi point to avoid stripping.
Maybe I'm missing something here. I have an assortment of calibrated torque wrenches applicable to different torque ranges. You are saying not to use them because the "good'n'tight" method is better? What is your reasoning?
 

LostWoods

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Maybe I'm missing something here. I have an assortment of calibrated torque wrenches applicable to different torque ranges. You are saying not to use them because the "good'n'tight" method is better? What is your reasoning?
Better is subjective. In this case a torque wrench is unnecessary for anyone who has any sense of feel because the cap has no forces acting on it and the o-ring acting against its own compression provides the tension to keep the cap in place. Literally hand tight then one finger on the end of a 3/8" ratchet and you're fine.

Torque it if you want but it's overkill.
 

WILDHOBO

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Maybe I'm missing something here. I have an assortment of calibrated torque wrenches applicable to different torque ranges. You are saying not to use them because the "good'n'tight" method is better? What is your reasoning?
I love my torque wrenches as much as any wrencher. But with plastic caps that easily get deformed or broken, it’s best just to use common sense for tightening. If your wrench isn’t well calibrated, it’s easy to trust the torque wrench more than your judgement.
 
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htremper

htremper

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Thanks yall for the advice...although I was kinda looking for a solution not a "here is how to not do that again"...however its good to know I pretty much follow what has been already stated above as good practice (obv I wasnt the one putting this thing on)

The problem (other then Jeep using plastic cap) is you cant get anything of size value (channel locks, vice etc) to grip...as there is no room. I suppose I can bust it up...but didnt want to risk little plastic shards getting in there.
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