Eco diesel Suspension bottoming out on normal roads

[djthumper]

I am going to go in and meet with the service manager to see if I can get her to take a look at it. Even if it is to take it for a drive to a parking lot with speed bumps.

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[Dougstdig]

I am going to go in and meet with the service manager to see if I can get her to take a look at it. Even if it is to take it for a drive to a parking lot with speed bumps.

Also look for a transition while turning. I was 2nd in line at a light. When it turned green I rolled forward and started turning the wheel. The cross tragic lane had a 1/2” new layer of asphalt…BAM…. I guess what I’m saying is is if you’re able to get somebody in there to take it for a ride it’s my at least mine anyway is more susceptible to impact if the wheels returned because there’s a weight transferred to that side which makes it even worse.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

djthumper... If you are looking to keep the same ride height and count into the additional weight of new bumper and winch I would HIGHLY recommend talking with Clayton and their springs for the Gladiator Diesel. James was AMAZING and cant give them enough credit. I put their springs on did not change ANYTHING else... Jeep drove handled as it should... added a stubby bumper and winch no changes ... again my two cents and a lot easier then dealing with dealership who doesn't seam to want to help

Appreciate it! Always happy to help out anybody experiencing this issue or that has any questions.

 

[PackMule]

I have been trying to get my dealer to look at it, but they want to charge a $200 diagnostics fee. I bottom out on speed bumps at less than 10 MPH. There is an area near downtown where if I catch the bumps just right I will bottom out on the highway. I am ready to add a 200-pound bumper and winch to the front. I have already added about 250 pounds to the back.

... not a Rubicon... TSB is only for Rubicon's... another reason to talk to Clayton.

Jeep is not addressing the bottom out on non-Rubicon's. Clayton does.
Jeep's solution on Rubicon's will solve it for daily driving only, not trails, and without any more bumper weight. Clayton's springs will address both.

I have a Rubicon... and waited more than a year for them to come up with a "solution"... after I saw what Jeep was doing with the Rubicon's, I went with Clayton. I wouldn't waste more of your time and energy when you can get Clayton front springs for a little more than your dealer wants to charge you to diagnose.

 

[F1REICE]

2021 JTRD the Clayton 0.5 springs and TSB shocks.... ride is Great flex has no hitting at all four corners and no bottoming out.

 

[M3r1c4]

As I stated before I ended up installing Sumo Springs bump-stops and Tereflex 1-1/2 spacer lift in front. I also installed the Rear 3/4 in spacer to level and added the rear Sumo spring bump-stops. Everything drives the same on pavement but on dirt or any bumps it is far smoother. The Sumo springs "hit" sooner than the old bump-stops but it smooths everything out. You can't even feel it touch but I know they do because there is only 1-1/2 of space before they do.
I am very happy to get the better ride without lifting much.

 

[Clayton Off Road]

2021 JTRD the Clayton 0.5 springs and TSB shocks.... ride is Great flex has no hitting at all four corners and no bottoming out.

perfect!

 

[Almost]

2021 JTRD the Clayton 0.5 springs and TSB shocks.... ride is Great flex has no hitting at all four corners and no bottoming out.

this is the route I’m going. I have an appointment to have them look and hopefully order the new shocks and bump stops. After that I’ll add the Clayton springs and jam 35s under it. That will hold me over for now.

 

[Snowcavemike]

Is anyone else experiencing their JT bottoming out on roads that other cars (trucks, JL Rubicon, anything else really) don’t have problems with?

It happens even with undulations in the road, not just pot holes and railroad tracks.

I have a JTDR, stock suspension.

I have a 2021 Ecodiesel. Mine was bottoming out. I installed a Rock Krawer no limits 3 inch lift. Omg. I can hit rough railroad crossing at 30 and just glide over. If you are staying stock, the hydraulic bump stops really work.

 

[troymi]

Off topic question for anyone with more spring experience than me. One side to the other does not look correct. AEV spacer lift. This an issue? Cause vibrations at speed? Jeep was perfect. Went in for TSB shocks and stops and it's been a mess since. Now I see this. Did the tech not align the spring in the spacer correctly?

 

[CreepyJeepy]

I had this issue with the Mopar lift.

lower spring isolators from metal cloak, and an adjustable track bar to center the axle will solve that issue.

 

[troymi]

I had this issue with the Mopar lift.

lower spring isolators from metal cloak, and an adjustable track bar to center the axle will solve that issue.

I get what you're saying but this look like either the spring wasn't positioned correctly or it shifted. I'm leaning toward not installed correctly after the new shocks/bumps were installed. Will find out next week. This was the best driving Jeep (Wrangler/Glad) I've had and they toasted it. Then I found out they tried to fix it with lots of wheel weights. Another story prob but like many think: the dealers don't employ the best techs when the manual isn't step to step.

 

[CreepyJeepy]

Good luck!

I had a bit of spring bow just like that. (It’s honestly not that awful.) Maybe spring clocking, but honestly likely the lower perch / axle has shifted due to extra height.

 

[@californiajeeping]

Good luck!

I had a bit of spring bow just like that. (It’s honestly not that awful.) Maybe spring clocking, but honestly likely the lower perch / axle has shifted due to extra height.

On the diesels one side (grey) is a thicker spacer and is more suseptible for bowing. Metal cloak makes isolators out of polyeurethane that fixes the problem and are very inexpensive.

 

[Sting-Gray Neutral Pres.]

Another non-Rubicon diesel here that couldn't benefit from the TSB but definitely bottoms out. For $220 shipped and a couple hours of garage time the Clayton 0.5" lift springs are absolutely the cheapest and quickest solution. I put mine on this Saturday and hit the trail on Sunday. I can still get the truck to bottom out if I try hard but it's 90% better than before and I'd honestly have to compare a gasser side by side on the same bump to see if I'm just pushing the truck to the natural limits of stock suspension travel.
For rake I'd say it's not level but closer to level than to OEM rake. It's a subtle positive visual change.

A few install notes: Follow the various youtube vids available on front spring swaps, but note that they leave out a key detail (maybe diesel specific?): the passenger side suspension won't droop enough unless you remove the lower track bar bolt, then it drops right down. To get the track bar reconnected you'll have to finish everything but that one bolt, then lower the front on tires until it's weighted. Have someone move the steering wheel which will shift the entire body until the track bar bottom end lines up with the mounting hole.
Also, if working on your own use a piece of double sided tape on the upper spring perches to hold them in place once you have the little rubber ears correctly in the holes, so that you can then leave it hanging correctly while you jack up the supension and reseat the spring.

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