What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Courtsm3]

Chopped the suitcase muffler and combined the two resonators, creating a rock crawler type system. Im really impressed, sounds better than my 20’ Magnaflow crawler system that cost $700. This cost $30. As you can see the 22’ 3.6 have smaller rear resonator now. AFE rock basher is on its way so I did this for fun and im considering keeping it if the AFE doesnt work out. Those beautiful burbles between shifts is addicting!!

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[Beemer533]

I added paddle shifters to my Mojave steering wheel. Not bad to get done, definitely easier to pull the airbag than my 2014 Ram..

Definitely looking forward to using them offroad.

And most importantly, they look cool..

Thanks to @rharr for the soldering iron tip, that worked really well. The new paddles fit pretty flush.

 

[Courtsm3]

Installed airbags to help those soft Mojave springs while towing. Pressure test today, will drop them back down to under 10 psi tomorrow after making sure their are no leaks.

Love mine. Towed already at 12psi and it was a dream. Less float at speed and no more sag loaded up.

 

[Fcmalie]

Love mine. Towed already at 12psi and it was a dream. Less float at speed and no more sag loaded up.

My trailer is pushing 5000lbs, so guessing I will end up closer to 20 psi. Definitely looking forward to trying it out vs not having anything.

 

[LostWoods]

I stripped a sway bar end link stud yesterday so installed the Apex links today. They honestly should come with a 1/4" spacer for the stud to get them more vertical but nothing some washers couldn't fix.

So if you have the Metalcloak links, don't be lazy, loctite the shit out of the bolts because the serrated nut they give you does not hold. Makes no sense to me why companies can't provide nyloc nuts these days.

 

[LostWoods]

Disappointed that Stellantis cuts cost by leaving off the receiver hitch. The replacement is the same bracket as what came off just add the receiver portion.

What do you mean cut costs by leaving off the receiver hitch?
It's on any Gladiator with the optional tow package.
If you didn't order a tow package, you don't get the receiver. Like any other truck (for the most part)

That "bracket" is what you'd put a bumper-mounted ball on for light duty towing. (because the bumper alone won't cut it)

They didn't cut costs - that truck doesn't have the tow package.

Yeah the ability to tow more is more than just the hitch. There are tests for the ratings and given they needed to do cooling adjustments to the grille, the base truck likely can't pass the tow tests to the maximum rating of the tow package.

 

[BAT]

Well tomorrow have some Rokblokz coming in so that will likely be a project for the weekend front and backs.

 

[Courtsm3]

My trailer is pushing 5000lbs, so guessing I will end up closer to 20 psi. Definitely looking forward to trying it out vs not having anything.

Yeah im around 2000lbs. I could have even dropped mine to 10psi for just a tad more comfort.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

don't be lazy, loctite the shit out of the bolts because the serrated nut they give you does not hold. Makes no sense to me why companies can't provide nyloc nuts these days.

Lock nuts would make setting a specific torque almost impossible.................

Lock nuts like the tri-crimp (top lock) or side crimp 2 way nuts aren't going to come loose, but you can't set a torque for them. They are usually used in high vibration equipment where the clamping force isn't so critical but staying clamped is.
I still have a coffee can or two of various lock nuts of almost any type made - Dad would bring them home from the plant as employees were told if it drops to the floor, leave it. He'd go through later and gather 'em up.

 

[LostWoods]

Lock nuts would make setting a specific torque almost impossible.................

Lock nuts like the tri-crimp (top lock) or side crimp 2 way nuts aren't going to come loose, but you can't set a torque for them. They are usually used in high vibration equipment where the clamping force isn't so critical but staying clamped is.
I still have a coffee can or two of various lock nuts of almost any type made - Dad would bring them home from the plant as employees were told if it drops to the floor, leave it. He'd go through later and gather 'em up.

Well I wouldn't call these torque critical so I'm not sure it makes that much a difference. The one benefit to nyloc is that they are reusable and retain most of their ability to hold whereas deforming nuts like a top lock and loctite don't hold as well once removed.

I mean every suspension nut on the truck is a top lock nut and they still give torque specs. They're not perfect but we're not talking main cap bolts.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well I wouldn't call these torque critical so I'm not sure it makes that much a difference. The one benefit to nyloc is that they are reusable and retain most of their ability to hold whereas deforming nuts like a top lock and loctite don't hold as well once removed.

I mean every suspension nut on the truck is a top lock nut and they still give torque specs. They're not perfect but we're not talking main cap bolts.

Yeah, once you get up to 150-200 lb/ft that nut isn't really doing much - it's likely why some of them are torque plus angle, too.
That's something else I have found interesting - there's charts out there showing straight torque specs for some of these bolts but when I went the torque plus angle method like Jeep specifies in their service specs - the straight torque specs are low. I think one chart shows 190 for the LCA - but if you follow the 103 plus 145° it's higher than 190 in the end.
I used the factory specs on my front suspension when I put it back - things are TIGHT.

 

[LostWoods]

Yeah, once you get up to 150-200 lb/ft that nut isn't really doing much - it's likely why some of them are torque plus angle, too.
That's something else I have found interesting - there's charts out there showing straight torque specs for some of these bolts but when I went the torque plus angle method like Jeep specifies in their service specs - the straight torque specs are low. I think one chart shows 190 for the LCA - but if you follow the 103 plus 145° it's higher than 190 in the end.
I used the factory specs on my front suspension when I put it back - things are TIGHT.

I used the Mopar lift specs which reuse factory hardware but have higher specs than the factory. There's a couple in there that are 190 and 200 ft-lb that were insane to hit even with a 24" torque wrench. Had to have my wife hold the wrench on the backside because I couldn't hit it one handed on the ground.

One of these days I'm just going to do a large Fastenal order and get a full set of flange nuts and bolts and do it all with loctite. I'll carry a few extra nyloc in case I need to pull one loose on trail or something.

 

[RamRod]

Put on a bestop sunrider. Snagged it off of face book for $200 brand new in the box.

 

[SargeDiesel]

Well tomorrow have some Rokblokz coming in so that will likely be a project for the weekend front and backs.

Installed mine yesterday , lovem !

 

[Beemer533]

My trailer is pushing 5000lbs, so guessing I will end up closer to 20 psi. Definitely looking forward to trying it out vs not having anything.

I haven't installed mine yet, but I am trying to decide how complicated I want to get with filling them. I could just go with Schrader valves that they come with or plumb them into my ARB system...

How did you decide go to fill them? I assume you are keeping them separated?

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