0w 20 or 5w 30

[bleda2002]

I only run Stihl brand bar oil in mine

I took my truck in yesterday for an oil change. I've always run 0W-20, but my warranty just finished up, so I decided to switch to 5W-30, and the oil change place actually refused to use it. I was already there so I had them just do the normal 0W-20, but I'll probably just switch to doing it myself (also because it was $117 for 5 qts of Mobil One, a filter, and labor).

117 for an oil change on these? That's highway robbery given how easy it is on the 3.6

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[RHINO79]

I don't see a problem with 5w30 in hot weather and towing, whatever you use I would still change at 3k or 6 months if you want to protect the engine .

 

[RHINO79]

I only run Stihl brand bar oil in mine


117 for an oil change on these? That's highway robbery given how easy it is on the 3.6

Agree, it cost me 35 total for a purolator one and valvoline extended protection full synthetic.

 

[Guns_N_Rosaries]

I only run Stihl brand bar oil in mine


117 for an oil change on these? That's highway robbery given how easy it is on the 3.6

Yeah. It started off at about $70-$80 when I first got the truck and has gone up over the years, and finally yesterday it was over $100. That was the final nail in the coffin for me starting to do my own oil changes. I can do them for under $50...

 

[RHINO79]

I only run Stihl brand bar oil in mine


117 for an oil change on these? That's highway robbery given how easy it is on the 3.6

Maybe try straight STP for maximum oil pressure

 

[ChecksOut]

The ONLY 3 reasons 5w-30 isn't recommended in these engine are:

- Dealer CAN claim wrong oil used and void warranty (not WILL, CAN).
- The phasers/etc may not have the oil clearances designed for thicker oil and could cause it to shear must faster causing faster breakdown of the oil. (If you can't understand this, don't talk to me...joking but also dead serious).
- It causes SLIGHTLY more friction on the crank/etc increasing emissions output more than designed by manufacturer when they submitted the engine for emissions testing.

My Gladiator got the tick last year. My dealer was already trying to deny my warranty before even getting my documentation of self service. I bet the wrong grade oil woulda made him laugh like a madman.

 

[Batterycap]

I added a 2005 Wrangler TJ to the fleet recently. It only has 23,700 miles. I was looking through the owner's manual and noted the 4.0 calls for 6 quarts of 10W-30. It warmed my heart.

 

[Dave D]

I feel it is more important to just change your oil more often.
I do mine every 8k km (5k miles).

 

[smlobx]

I love oil threads!!

One point that hasn’t been brought up yet is that after only a few thousand miles ALL oils will start to shear to one degree or another. That means that what has started out as a 20 weight oil at operating temperature may be operating as a 15 or even a 10 weight oil if left in long enough..

Thats one of the reasons I’m running 5W-30 in mine.

Another thing to consider is that dealers don’t have the equipment to determine what oil you’ve been running especially given the above. The only thing they will check to verify is the oil level and perhaps the”color” to see if it’s been changed regularly.

 

[moparnut72]

I bought my new Gladiator two months ago. So I am new here but I did my first oil change like recommended for motorcycles, 500 miles. I put 5-30 in it. Probably my imagination but the engine seems a tickle quieter. Not my first Pentastar but if I remember correctly 5-30 was specified for them. The used oil wasn't as clean as I would have thought so I am glad I changed it. I think Lake said 0-20 is spec'ed to increase the corporate Cafe numbers. I once had an owner of a motorcycle dealership who said "I have seen more engines damaged due to lack of rather than brand or grade."
kk

 

[ChecksOut]

I love oil threads!!

One point that hasn’t been brought up yet is that after only a few thousand miles ALL oils will start to shear to one degree or another. That means that what has started out as a 20 weight oil at operating temperature may be operating as a 15 or even a 10 weight oil if left in long enough..

Thats one of the reasons I’m running 5W-30 in mine.

Another thing to consider is that dealers don’t have the equipment to determine what oil you’ve been running especially given the above. The only thing they will check to verify is the oil level and perhaps the”color” to see if it’s been changed regularly.

In reference to my dealer attempting to deny my warranty, the grade of oil was in the receipts along with the dates showing it matches the timeframe when I did the oil changes.

 

[Gwolf]

5w30 should only be used if your running an aftermarket cold air intake. The extra horsepowers need the added protection.

Hello I have cold air intake and Corsa Exhaust , and a AFE Scorcher. From time to time I two a 5500 Lb rv. But my dealer would mot put 5w30 in said it would trip the check engine light.

 

[AmosMoses]

Hello I have cold air intake and Corsa Exhaust , and a AFE Scorcher. From time to time I two a 5500 Lb rv. But my dealer would mot put 5w30 in said it would trip the check engine light.

With those engine mods you should be getting your oil changed at a high performance engine shop, by experts in high performance engine mods. The motor in your jeep is now basically a race engine. Race car drivers dont take their rigs to the dealer.

 

[smlobx]

In reference to my dealer attempting to deny my warranty, the grade of oil was in the receipts along with the dates showing it matches the timeframe when I did the oil changes.

A lot of guys run the recommended oil during warranty and then switch.

 

[oldironsights]

I'm sold on the 5w30.
Right in the middle of the other "extremes" above & below seems like a beneficial compromise for me.
I am still convinced the lower drag 0w20 became policy to comply with CAFE standards.

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