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smlobx

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I was looking at this fan controller. It showed good results in a JL, but I do not know if that was with the 850 watt fan or something else.

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-JT-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER-⭐.aspx
According to a friend in the “biz” there has been a trend over the last decade or so to run the engines hotter to improve fuel economy. I’m sure this is fine for the average driver but when you start playing at the edges by doing things like hauling heavier loads or super charging then helping the engine stay within normal operating range has to be a good thing so I’m in favor of allowing the fan to come on sooner to minimize the heat soaking.👍
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ShadowsPapa

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According to a friend in the “biz” there has been a trend over the last decade or so to run the engines hotter to improve fuel economy. I’m sure this is fine for the average driver but when you start playing at the edges by doing things like hauling heavier loads or super charging then helping the engine stay within normal operating range has to be a good thing so I’m in favor of allowing the fan to come on sooner to minimize the heat soaking.👍
I would agree, but me, I'd wait and see. He doesn't want it running too cool, either. The extra pressure above the piston with low tension rings can mean more byproducts of combustion as well as fuel contamination. It will need to run warm enough long enough to burn that out or acids will form, and the oil won't last.
With the added radiator capacity and larger fan, it might not be needed and could even cause it to run too cold - like my current 4.0 runs. The rad I put in it and the clutch fan runs too much and the thing just wont' warm up on cool days, it runs barely at stat temperature.
The problem with doing all things at once it - you don't know what is causing what.
I'd "wait and see". A 4xe fan and larger rad may already run it cold.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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What I have seen in race rigs is a additional cooler mounted in the bed with its own fan.
Now I am wondering out loud would that be feasible or effective?
We don't even know if the rad and a fan update won't take care of it
I'll wait for initial results
 

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Don, before I would be doing radiators, fan controllers, new grill and things like that I would look at the bumper and lights . I love your bumper and think it is a great design ,still clearance but coming up to block airflow on top of tire , but what if the bull bar went away and instead mount smaller lights on the raised portion the bull bar sat on , that has to increase air flow , lights and bull bar would be out of radiator space , done well lights would look really custom. Still thrilled with your plan though.
Just saying bud!…..Jack
 
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Don, before I would be doing radiators, fan controllers, new grill and things like that I would look at the bumper and lights . I love your bumper and think it is a great design still clearance but coming up to block airflow on top of tire , but what if the bull bar went away and instead mount smaller lights on the raised portion the bull bar sat on , that has to increase air flow , lights and bull bar would be out of radiator space , done well lights would look really custom. Still thrilled with your plan though.
Just saying bud!…..Jack
It's amazing what will interrupt air flow up there........... and cause weird flow patterns besides.
 
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Don, before I would be doing radiators, fan controllers, new grill and things like that I would look at the bumper and lights . I love your bumper and think it is a great design ,still clearance but coming up to block airflow on top of tire , but what if the bull bar went away and instead mount smaller lights on the raised portion the bull bar sat on , that has to increase air flow , lights and bull bar would be out of radiator space , done well lights would look really custom. Still thrilled with your plan though.
Just saying bud!…..Jack
Funny you should mention that.

I am just about finished welding up my new Barnes Off Road Pritchett ridge bumper. More a tube thing than the flat faced shorty design. I selected that to reduce the weight a little, improve air flow, and I like the more spartan design.

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Bingo on the bumper!
Should be a big improvement for airflow already!….Jack
 
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Computer comes out tomorrow and gets shipped off to HP Tuners.

Sharing the RIPP engine oil TSB:

Pretty much requires changing to 5W40 and going to a 3,000 mile oil change interval.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Computer comes out tomorrow and gets shipped off to HP Tuners.

Sharing the RIPP engine oil TSB:

Pretty much requires changing to 5W40 and going to a 3,000 mile oil change interval.
Even without that, I'd not run 0w20 in a supercharged or turbo engine. The heat and forces aren't natural. Engineering and testing was for NA engines.
The oil life monitor can't account for the loading and heat.
On a non-supercharged engine, they are totally and 100% accurate as shown by Lake Speed Jr. But again, as someone once said "the rules have changed" so you can't play using old rules and measures.

Normally, the intake system always operates under a vacuum, so the PCV system will function as intended -almost always keeping a negative pressure in the crankcase.
Again - you are pressurizing the intake charge and likely increasing pressure in the crankcase at the same time.
Do they suggest or furnish a vacuum pump for the crankcase?
Many racers run one to keep that vacuum in the crankcase - preventing LEAKS and making the rings seal better as they seal best with a pressure differential between the top and bottom surfaces.
How do they handle the PCV system in general? It's not just for emissions.... like some think.
 

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Bill, they do not have a vacuum pump, however they do something with the PSV and utilize a catch can. RIPP mentioned that my existing catch can would not work and I'd have to use theirs.

I get it on the ring sealing thing, and am aware of the low tension rings used here to reduce friction (allows Increased bypass from the combustion chamber to the crank casse). All I can say here is that I believe the RIPP folks have properly engineered this system, although a supercharged prepped short block would work much better.
 
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Started on the Supercharger install today. Just mild teardown stuff and sorting. I tried to box up and ship off the ECM. but HP Tuners site has some technical glitch. BTW, their unlocking service for the GPEC5 is $249 + shipping

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Stuff is starting to arrive (and pile up)
There are a lot of Bits (as my British friends like to say).
I have begun with step one, which is to clean up the entire work area and organize the parts on the tables. Oh, and getting the lighting right. Who agrees with me that poor lighting is often the most significant detriment to getting things done?
Late to this comment, but lighting is key.

I have a long work light that clamps to the hood to light up the engine bay, and at our house I've swapped the carport lighting to something offensively bright so I can see when working on things. No shop or garage yet, so I have light every other way 😂
 
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The new aluminum 3-core (really three tubes) looks quite nice and well built.

For those following the SC installation, the radiator is not included in the RIPP kit. I just decided to do some upgrades while everything is torn down.

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Late to this comment, but lighting is key.

I have a long work light that clamps to the hood to light up the engine bay, and at our house I've swapped the carport lighting to something offensively bright so I can see when working on things. No shop or garage yet, so I have light every other way 😂
I certainly know that feeling of no Garage. . Well I have one but Jeep wint fit in it . Was made for a small car I have actually thought of building a bigger garage and then turning that into extra living space .
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