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35 or 37`s What To Do?

RH 67

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Trying to make a smart choice here. Really like the looks of the JT Rubicon with 37`s over 35`s both stock height and with the Mopar 2 inch lift. My concerns are drivability, every day city and Hwy, towing and reliability with 37`s. Will 37`s put to much strain on the stock drive train? I do not plan on doing any hard core off roading with the JT just mild stuff i have another off roader for the gnarly stuff.

Any JT owners with 37`s please share your experience. Thanks in advance.
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CarolinaGladiator

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This is where I'm at as well. I (plan to) tow my 20' pontoon and do some mild off-roading with my Sport S. Do I go 35s or 37s and a small lift? I have the Max tow so I'm running 4.10 gears.
 

LongTimeListener

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37s will stress your axles. If you don't plan to beef up your axles, I wouldn't run them. Others will tell you "Joe over on the JL forum has been running 37s just fine." Welp, sure. They don't all blow up. But 37s create a lot of additional stress on your driveline. I wouldn't run them lightly. (Pun intended.)
 

LidLess07X

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Center of gravity, rollovers, and braking performance are all considerations too.

I had a JK on 37’s for a daily driver and hated it. I ended up changing to a lower lift and 35’s and lost a lot of money in the process.

I’m currently running 35” Toyos on my stock JT Rubicon and will probably just install a simple leveling kit

Changing a flat tire and tire rotations suck as well
 

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Etoimos

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You have to be honest with yourself about what you will be doing with your JT. On my JKUR I went from 35s to 37s and both love and hate the 37s. I live in CO and at the time it was both my daily driver and my rock crawler. I'd typically run 20+ rock crawling trails a year. So I used the 37s a lot. But they are a pain on a daily driver for various reasons. Now that I'm more in to the overlanding thing vs crawling, I sometimes wish I had my 35s back.

From what I've read, the Dana 44s on the JT has 10mm thicker walls then what comes on the JL, so I'm not sure how much additional beefing up they will need to "safely" run 37s. It difference is about the same as sleeving the Dana 44 on a JKR. C gussets might still be in order and I would imagine you would still want to regear it (the new transmissions might make that not such a big deal in the JT). You are definitely going to want to really upgrade your ball joints... and I'm not talking about to just the standard upgraded ones. I wore out my Synergy ball joints in about 16 months and had to go with the Rare Parts ball joints at over $550 for a set.

If you are just mall crawling, running 37s on stock parts (minus ball joints) is probably fine. If you are doing even light wheeling, I'd say you should do all the "required" upgrades and that will keep you safe on the light stuff and let you run the heavier stuff if you decide you want to.

If you are towing, overlanding or will really only be doing light wheeling, 35s are big enough.
 
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RH 67

RH 67

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Thanks for the reply`s. It`s the information i needed, i believe 35`s fit my needs.
 

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There is no real question. 37s will make your life harder and you won't see any benefit from having them. If you simply like the look, and can deal with the problems, then go ahead.
 

BLK HOLE

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37s will stress your axles. If you don't plan to beef up your axles, I wouldn't run them. Others will tell you "Joe over on the JL forum has been running 37s just fine." Welp, sure. They don't all blow up. But 37s create a lot of additional stress on your driveline. I wouldn't run them lightly. (Pun intended.)
Don't forget the D44s in JTs are larger and thicker (by 10mm) than JLs. I run 37s on both my JTR and my JKUR and have never seen a problem, and I DD them, rock climb them and have been around plenty of 37s on stock D44s for years....rarely ever seeing a problem. Any problems I have seen have been heavy feet, avid offroaders or accidents. Both my JTR and JKUR axles and axle housings are completely stock...except the rear axles on the JKUR that ended up with bend axle flanges while running 35s several years back. So it has forged axles back there now.

I didn't hesitate for a second to add 37s, which I added 30min after driving off the lot. I've put 4600 miles on it and its been on road trips to CO from TX (20mpg) and rock crawled in Texas....all without an issue at all.

I think if you're wanting 37s then you'll regret going 35s. With KO2s I have no audible road noise over stock, admittedly I only had about 10 miles on my stock tires but I paid very close attention on the freeway knowing this was the case.

94BE4527-53D1-418A-B18F-6A455871242F.JPEG
 

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RH 67

RH 67

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Couple of pics with current stock suspension

4FB59F26-00DB-407D-85F0-6520B02D1FC7.jpeg


C7A55C68-EA6D-4ECB-B2B6-80401662A39C.jpeg


E49AB2A4-7CEC-41B9-879F-9A9308E2CF16.jpeg
I like this, the tires are not sticking way out beyond the fenders which is a no no here in California. What are the specs. on your rims? back space, off set. Would 35`s be a good idea on stock Rubicon rims?
 

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If you have a JT with 4.10 gears and the 8-speed auto, your internal debate won’t end just by deciding on 35s based on internet speculation. Maybe there is someone near you who has done this who will let you test drive theirs?
 
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RH 67

RH 67

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If you have a JT with 4.10 gears and the 8-speed auto, your internal debate won’t end just by deciding on 35s based on internet speculation. Maybe there is someone near you who has done this who will let you test drive theirs?
True.
 

sass JT

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So much hate for 37’s... for me it was an easy choice, I have tire size envy. I daily and highway drive my rig. Been on a bunch of technical trails in Colorado. And so far no issues, and yes I will be beefing up my suspension stuff soon to handle all the extra weight... I’m super impressed with my JT and what it can do with the 37’s. Glad I went that way.
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