I comes with lots of other cool features, but is a must for larger tires or gears.
This is my experience w/35's and 3.73 gears and just over 2k miles on a new vehicle. My tire size (34.25 w-6 offset wheels) is calibrated w/Tazer as well. It depends on the terrain where U live as well, and the type of driving you're doing (highway/city, etc.).
Try a long set of needle nosed pliers on the tab and pull w/the other hand. That worked for me. Prior to that, I was about as pissed as could be that I couldn't get them out.
I have 35s with 3.73 for about 43k miles now. It doesn’t see 7th and 8th nearly as much as I’d like on a flat highway.
Drive faster. I'll see 8th on the freeway with the cruise set at 85mph all the time on 37s and 4.10s.
I have an F150 that I drive on the highway more cause it does it so much better at that. I’ll do 85 in my F150, but I usually drive at 75-80 in the Gladiator cause it feels better at that speed.
1k+ mile road trips across the desert are a regular occurance for us and anything below 85 feels like you're standing still. The semi's will be going around you in a regular basis.
Thanks for your feedback on the devices. I am ok with tech but also want something as simple as possible for the new rig to avoid any headaches. Not interested in wiring or fugging with things, just want a simple device that can adjust my speedo, odo, and shift points to make things right.
Time is money, 1,000 miles at 53mph is 19 hours. At 85mph it is 12 hrs. 7 hours of my time is worth far more than a couple tanks of gas especially since we make that type of trip 6-12 times per year. That's 2 full work weeks in time saved. I can buy gas for the year with 2 weeks of my time. Add in 2 weeks of the wife's time on top of that. I'll spend my time on the trails when I get to the destinations not on the freeway thanks. An extra 2 days wheeling in moab every trip as it's 1,100 each way from the house? Sign me up for the poor mpgs that come with getting their and back while saving 16 hours thank you.
I agree - make sure you have reprogramed your vehicle with either JScan or Tazer. If your vehicle still thinks it has 33’s or another size tire, it will affect your experience tremendously. Make sure you measure with the tire loaded (not the size stated such as “35”) so that you get the true measurement - input this into your system and then test it out. I went from 33’s to 37’s and went to 4.88’s - works for me - not a daily driver and I drive on the beach and wheel. I’ve also towed a vehicle with it and plan on towing a boat.
Never thought to use a heat gun because I never thought anyone would actually glue or make it difficult to remove? Why even make them removable cables if your going to glue it into place?
It is a security module and for many reasons Jeep doesn't want it bypassed. But for the most part they are very easy to remove. There are a select few of us that just got the middle finger for no reason. I took off my door, took out my seat, pulled the under steering panel, and then had to proceed to pull the light switch assembly, radio, AC controls, dash trim, and all the knee kicker area. After i finally got it unstuck. Its super easy to deal with now. I can just reach up in there and swap everything around one handed if i want. It was just a dick and half the first time for no reason. personally when it comes to tire size. If you have Rubicon highline fenders, I feel you need 35s min to make the truck look "fitted". I stuff 37s on mine, Looks sick AF if say so myself. But with non highline fenders, 33s look great with just a little more offset. At least that's how i see it in my eye's.
![gates007 [scammer]](https://cdn.jeepgladiatorforum.com/data/avatars/s/54/54837.jpg?1673270605){kind=avatar}
