Kirk*Mojave
Well-Known Member
I've found out over the years that dealerships will say just about anything to get out of doing warranty work. Ford being the worst hands down Toyota being best
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Thanks. Contemplating!3.73's and going to 35" tires may be a bridge to far in recalibrating for vehicle speed and expecting to see 8th gear with any regularity.
still needs to be programmed. its not the speed that is the problem. Its the transmission shift point and load assumptions. If you don't correct it your gonna fool it into think your towing or hauling all the time. So it won't touch any overdrive gears.Ok..tire and wheel 109 lbs on the corner...I have positive 34 offset...so they tucked under nicely...I am not driving around like a wild ass with my tires in the on coming lane...I'm 64 y.o.....adjusting speedometer should have nothing to do with this....and oh by the way it is only off by 2 mph...so any other thoughts?
Off topic, but aside from milestar. MT is still pretty light as far as 37s go. I run the same tire but I'm 103lbs ish per corner. What was your weight with the 35in combo? I've seen some guys running 140 plus a corner with 37s.I just came from light 35s to heavy 37" tires. My current setup is Baja Boss AT 37x12.50r17 on Fuel Kicker 17x9 -12mm offset wheels, approx 110 pounds per corner. After updating the computer to the proper size for the 37s, my Rubicon with 4.10 drives and shifts better than it did with both the stock 33s and the 35s. Updating the computer for the proper size tires is more about the trans shifting correctly than keeping the speed accurate. I don't see 8th as often now as I did with either of the smaller tires but on level ground I'm in 8th at 65mph. At some point I'll regear because I tow, but for now, mine does fine and I average around 15 mpg with 50/50 in town and highway driving.
yeah they glue some of em in. Mine had PCB putty on it and was a nightmare to get off.Just curious if anyone has had their tire shop adjust the new size. I only ask because I have NEVER been able to get the cables out of the security module and I have had tried too many times to count and several attempts have had a good grip and pressure on the clip. Doesn't even pretend to move. I'm a stubborn bastard and this one has me beat.
Wires are frayed (second owner) so someone else got crazy in there before me and I'm afraid to get too rough.
ProCal and Jscan are the way to go if you don't wanna mess with a tazer. Personally I find the Tazer to be a superior device with all its features and despite the occasional bug its nothing that hasn't been fixable by resetting it in the truck or at most updating the software via my PC. But its never broken to the point that the vehicle didn't operate or a feature cause headache/annoyance. Its just a bit for involved and tech savvy. So if that isn't your speed, definitely not for you.I wouldn't consider letting a tire shop attach a computer to my Jeep!
I felt the 35's on stock wheels on my Mojave with auto and 4.10's was great, the whole it doesn't stay in 8th gear all the time is because it shouldn't, any vehicle is going to downshift on grades. I didn't feel the need to get a programmer.
I am now in my new Mojave and have put on 37's, I'm noticing a significant difference in performance. Still on stock wheels, no spacers, the tires are light at 69lbs each. I will be ordering the AEV ProCal. I've read too many stories about the Tazer having issues and no support. That said I am open to all suggestions and information about the various products![]()
I'm assuming the same. I had it in my hands several times and it just won't move.yeah they glue some of em in. Mine had PCB putty on it and was a nightmare to get off.
It took a heat gun. removing half the dash, both hands and a flat head. Much skin and blood was lost in the process. I'm glad i actually enjoy my tazer. Some hate theirs and i would be peeved to go through all that work and end up returning it.I'm assuming the same. I had it in my hands several times and it just won't move.
I did 35's on my 2021 WILLYS and calibrated the speedo for it and found it sucked. Almost never saw 8th unless it was a dead nuts level road and no headwind. Had them on for less than a month and went down to 33's (285/70/17) and found that was better suited.Thanks. Contemplating!
3.73What was your gear ratio in the Willys?
Same with my Willys. The only time it went into 7th was downhill and would go back into 6th once I reached the bottom and I never saw 8th gear. I ended up selling it and going with a Diesel Rubicon instead.I did 35's on my 2021 WILLYS and calibrated the speedo for it and found it sucked. Almost never saw 8th unless it was a dead nuts level road and no headwind. Had them on for less than a month and went down to 33's (285/70/17) and found that was better suited.
D35 up front, IFS from a Ranger or Explorer? Did a wizard do the swap before the priest blessed it? ?My (gas) Gladiator Sport S with MaxTow came with 4:10s. I'm running 35s and have no problems for the areas I drive and the freeways I dodge potholes on. I'm in Southern California, and the Gladiator does fire roads and deserts.
In a completely unrelated note: my 2-door JK Sport has 3:21 gears and runs 37s. It goes to silly places and thinks it's a mountain goat. The Dana 35 up front is trussed, gusseted, and blessed by a priest.
Thanks. Will likely stick with 33/34s.I did 35's on my 2021 WILLYS and calibrated the speedo for it and found it sucked. Almost never saw 8th unless it was a dead nuts level road and no headwind. Had them on for less than a month and went down to 33's (285/70/17) and found that was better suited.