Another Aux Delete Question.

[ShadowsPapa]

Ok guys here my question, did these systems change on the 23 models? I’m curious because I only drive my glad about once of twice a month and have never had an issue. Now to be honest my truck has 1100 miles. Every other vehicle I own has an XS power AGM battery and some have multiple with the exception of my trail rig with a 16 volt brale battery. I have the 7/70 bumper to bumper on the Jeep so I likely won’t mess with the battery much, just curious if I should be using a tender

When you say "never had an issue" - are you saying that the auto stop/start works when it's warmed up? That if you have aux switches, you've not had aux switches not ready message?
If you take a volt meter and read the battery voltage with the truck shut off, it's reading 12.4 volts ore more? (ideally 12.5 or more)

The 2023 should have the same system but when new, battery capacity hasn't had a chance to drop much yet - so some of this depends on how many months old the truck is and when you do drive it, how far you drive and if it's in town or highway driving.

To know what's going on, you need to use a hand-held volt meter and measure at the battery when the is off.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Oh boy - here we go. . .

I wrapped up the neg cable and pulled the fuse. Why the hell am I still getting an error light?! ??

You pulled F42 fuse, disconnected the cable I have marked 2020 and didn't disconnect anything else at all?

What's the voltage on your main battery just sitting there? (using a volt meter that isn't part of the truck)

 

[Silversport23]

When you say "never had an issue" - are you saying that the auto stop/start works when it's warmed up? That if you have aux switches, you've not had aux switches not ready message?
If you take a volt meter and read the battery voltage with the truck shut off, it's reading 12.4 volts ore more? (ideally 12.5 or more)

The 2023 should have the same system but when new, battery capacity hasn't had a chance to drop much yet - so some of this depends on how many months old the truck is and when you do drive it, how far you drive and if it's in town or highway driving.

To know what's going on, you need to use a hand-held volt meter and measure at the battery when the is off.

I can provide better feedback over the next week or so as I’m installing a current shunt that has leads directly to my yokagawa meter so I can check parasitic drain if any. I opted to not go for the factory aux switches and installed switch pro system and I disabled the ess with the tazer the first week I owned it. I’ve had ess issues with my 2019 ford with the coyote and just never liked it since. The truck only gets driven at highway speeds typically for an hour + when I use it. It’s 4 months old and has 1,100 miles of which 640 was a single trip and it has sat for 4 weeks between starts without displaying any issues yet.

 

[Dryfly24]

You pulled F42 fuse, disconnected the cable I have marked 2020 and didn't disconnect anything else at all?

What's the voltage on your main battery just sitting there? (using a volt meter that isn't part of the truck)

I’ll check it when I get a chance but it’s a brand new AGM battery. Biggest and best auto zone had.

 

[JT1219]

I did a while back what is suggested here, I have a 22. Removed the aux ground and taped up, removed fuse 42. No idiot lights on dash and ESS now works off of the main battery, I went the next step and bought the stop start eliminator cable, installed it and hit the switch so the light comes on and never touched it again, the ESS is now locked out.

PS: if you disconnect the wrong ground you wont have any power as posted earlier, just reattach it and disconnect the other and you are good to go.

 

[JTenn]

I did a while back what is suggested here, I have a 22. Removed the aux ground and taped up, removed fuse 42. No idiot lights on dash and ESS now works off of the main battery, I went the next step and bought the stop start eliminator cable, installed it and hit the switch so the light comes on and never touched it again, the ESS is now locked out.

PS: if you disconnect the wrong ground you wont have any power as posted earlier, just reattach it and disconnect the other and you are good to go.

Yup. Thanks, its been working perfectly for the last month.

 

[Gvsukids]

ESS now works off of the main battery,

Would there be any problem of having the main battery control the ess?

 

[Hootbro]

Would there be any problem of having the main battery control the ess?

If you have more than 6 start/stop events per ignition cycle with just the main battery and the aux battery disabled/deleted, it will set the ESS warning light until the next ignition cycle.

 

[Gvsukids]

If you have more than 6 start/stop events per ignition cycle with just the main battery and the aux battery disabled/deleted, it will set the ESS warning light until the next ignition cycle.

No problems with the wear and tear on the battery?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

No problems with the wear and tear on the battery?

How I look at having the ESS on all the time would be unnecessary wear and tear on the starter. This is why I just push the button and shut the ESS off. I did upgrade both batteries but then I just know to expect to swap out the batteries after 3-5 years. The batteries are in a constant state of draw and charge when running or draw to run the modules when the engine is off.

My Mopar batteries didn’t last that long but the factory main is pretty small and the space can handle something much bigger and better.

 

[Hootbro]

No problems with the wear and tear on the battery?

Short term, I would say no on a fully serviceable main battery. They did put the AUX battery in for a reason though.

I would advise anybody that does an aux battery delete/disable, to use ESS disable device that remembers the ESS disable button last push and leave the system disable. If one wants to have ESS on a regular basis, I would say leave the system and both batteries intact.

 

[sharpsicle]

Short term, I would say no on a fully serviceable main battery. They did put the AUX battery in for a reason though.

I would advise anybody that does an aux battery delete/disable, to use ESS disable device that remembers the ESS disable button last push and leave the system disable. If one wants to have ESS on a regular basis, I would say leave the system and both batteries intact.

This 100%. If you run ESS off of just the main battery, and the voltage drops enough while it’s trying to crank, the computers will reboot and you’ll be stuck stranded.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How I look at having the ESS on all the time would be unnecessary wear and tear on the starter.

Talked about dozens of times - not on these starters. only if you want it to last well over 200,000 miles is it even something to have in the back of your mind. The ESS starts are hot starts, fuel system ready, PCM knows when the last injector fired and so on. It's really not only no real load, the starters are made just for this. These are not even close to non-ESS starters. Cold starts are a far larger problem. Warm ESS starts are nothing. Starter failures on these, even well over 100,000 miles, is pretty rare. It happens, but that's not due to ESS at all.

As far as batteries - my biggest issue with talk about batteries in Jeeps is the fact they aren't using great batteries. 4xe Jeeps go through 12v batteries pretty frequently - some people see them fail after only a few months, a couple of years is common. They don't have ESS or an aux battery so it's a great example of - it's not just ESS systems, it's single battery systems. Talk on 4xe sites is "Jeep 12v batteries suck".

 

[AmosMoses]

I've been getting the "auxiliary switches unavailable" warning light and Iam wondering if I should disconnect the auxiliary battery and pull fuse 42 since I have a tazer and never use ESS. This is a 2021.

Will I still have auxiliary switch functionality if I've removed the auxiliary battery and have a good main battery?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've been getting the "auxiliary switches unavailable" warning light and Iam wondering if I should disconnect the auxiliary battery and pull fuse 42 since I have a tazer and never use ESS. This is a 2021.

Will I still have auxiliary switch functionality if I've removed the auxiliary battery and have a good main battery?

The auxiliary battery has zip to do with the switches. The fact you are getting that message means that the voltage is low - it can be a bad MAIN battery.
My wife has been getting that in her Wrangler - "aux switches unavailable" - her Jeep has no aux battery - it's a 4xe.
So you may find you still have the issue. Don't jump to things - check your battery voltage with a volt meter. Start from there. You could have a MAIN battery going bad, OR the aux battery - but you won't know until you do some testing/checking.
Not using ESS has nothing to do with aux battery life, either. They are connected together at almost all times.

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