Anyone switch from Clayton Springs to Synergy?

[gstipton]

I have Clayton 1.5 rear springs in the rear already. The front Clayton I just took out were 2.5, the truck still had a hair of rake, maybe 1/4".
My Synergy fronts are the same -30 that you have.

I've got the 1.5 Claytons for the rear as well. Depending on the rake (or lack of), I also have a 3/4 rear spacer I can add if needed. Front is a steel bumper, skids and winch.

I'm at least a few weeks away from being able to do the install, so I'm eager to see how your ride is and what your stance looks like. Appreciate you posting your progress so far.

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[dayusmc]

I will post pictures and my thoughts as soon as it is done ..

Here is a picture of what it looked like with all the Clayton springs in it...

My driveway is on a slight angle ...

 

[dayusmc]

Picture of both sides bowing...

 

[gstipton]

I do wonder what Synergy would say about that, but I'd probably just go for it and see how it does.

Assuming nothing comes into contact that shouldn't on full compression, is there anything else that would be a legit issue?

 

[PuddleJumper]

Picture of both sides bowing...

They should bow out towards the wheels not forward or in. synergy springs and the iso's they come with should fix that. thats definitely bowed wrong.

 

[dayusmc]

I used the spring pads they came with..

 

[dayusmc]

So I spoke to Synergy today on the spring bow. They said there shouldn't be any. They said the only time they see spring bow is if the caster is wrong.

So I took the Clayton UCA off and measured them again. Then I checked Clayton's instructions, then it all went to hell...

In Clayton's instructions it shows how to measure them. So I measured and set them like that. Well of coarse I couldn't get all the bolt holes to line up, I struggled for 2 hours. Them I called Clayton back again. To clarify how to measure. They said just go from center to center of the bushings, so I did that. Again I couldn't get all the holes to line up, so I took them off again.

That is when I realized that center yo center of the bushings holes are different on each side because of the bend.... So I called Clayton back again to clarify. When I asked again about measuring point, they said as long as it is with .5 to .75 of what is on their chart it is fine...

They also said just set the driver's side length and adjust the passenger side control are so the holes line up, does that sound right?

So I set everything, springs still bow... I had no bow with the Clayton springs. Today kicked my ass!

 

[RacerAV]

I have Clayton springs in my Mojave with Fox 2.5 Elite Reservoir shocks. I feel like the truck is being tossed around. My Mojave is only street driven. I bought Synergy springs for the front, but have not put them in yet.

Can someone who had Clayton springs in their Gladiator and then switched to Synergy springs give me some feedback in how it rode? Should I also go with Synergy springs in the back? I do put my dirtbike and gear in the back sometimes...

I didn't switch FROM Claytons, but do have the rear Synergy springs in, as well as shock relocation brackets and bump stop pads (2") all from Synergy. Pretty happy with them, as I hated the squat with the Decked system and gear in the drawers, then REALLY hated the squat (about a half inch space left before OEM bump stops hit pads) when I was towing my 4500lb trailer. NOW, it's great. I have not installed the front yet, but will soon. Hoping that doesn't give me too much more squat thought.

 

[dayusmc]

Just to make sure I am thinking correctly because my brain is scrambled today after talking to Clayton...
To Increase Caster I need to shorten the upper control arm or lengthen the lowers correct?
I have 24.25 lowers in (non adjustable) , with 3" of lift I should have stock length or shorter uppers. Is that correct?
Clayton's chart has me making the uppers longer than stock, I think that might be causing the spring bow...

 

[Chunky White]

I might be off on this but if Synergy and Clayton springs do not give you the same amount of lift the control arms might need to be adjusted differently for one versus the other. I would not think there would be that much difference. Whats the measurement in wheelbase with one setup vs the other? If you've changed the wheelbase by adding lift or with your control arms that could cause some spring bend I would imagine? I haven't done my own Jeep lift yet but have done suspension of a few cars with adjustable control arms in the rear

You have Clayton ride right suspension? The non adjustable lower made me ask

 

[Chunky White]

Just to make sure I am thinking correctly because my brain is scrambled today after talking to Clayton...
To Increase Caster I need to shorten the upper control arm or lengthen the lowers correct?
I have 24.25 lowers in (non adjustable) , with 3" of lift I should have stock length or shorter uppers. Is that correct?
Clayton's chart has me making the uppers longer than stock, I think that might be causing the spring bow...

Adjust the upper arms to get your pinion angle correct

 

[dayusmc]

The Synergy and Clayton springs Should give me roughly the same lift.
My lowers are Eleve8 non adjustable...

 

[dayusmc]

Adjust the upper arms to get your pinion angle correct

I am not on an alignment rack

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Have you taken a pinion angle measurement?
I would use synergy’s control arm lengths for their springs…. The manufacturer of the control arm is a moot point- you are looking for control arm length based on the spring height…. And then fine tuning for caster angle/pinion angle.
To me- if your springs are bowed (mid point of the spring bowing outward to the front) the axle center is off and it can be off because the uppers are too long, or the lowers or too short, or a combination of both.
Get the lengths from synergy for the springs you have… that will put you in the ball park, then fine tune to caster/pinion angle.

control arms can be a pita….. have two floor jacks can be helpful- one under the diff/yolk to help roll the axle helps…. Beer also helps- but can also make this problem worse….

 

[gstipton]

Just to make sure I am thinking correctly because my brain is scrambled today after talking to Clayton...
To Increase Caster I need to shorten the upper control arm or lengthen the lowers correct?
I have 24.25 lowers in (non adjustable) , with 3" of lift I should have stock length or shorter uppers. Is that correct?
Clayton's chart has me making the uppers longer than stock, I think that might be causing the spring bow...

I don’t know what your upper lengths should be, but yes, increase lowers or shorten uppers to increase caster.

I’m curious what your alignment sheet said last time. It’s hard to imagine 5-6ish degrees caster if your uppers are longer than stick unless your lowers are way longer than stock. <shrug>

I have the longer Mopar lowers with stock uppers and 1.5” of spacers. My caster is close to 6 degrees. I’d expect to need shorter uppers after I install the same synergy springs that you’re putting on.

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